Hey Folks

I just wanted to introduce myself to you folks here at Honda-Tech, I'm totally new to this whole Honda thing. I've been an avid fan of Mazda Rx-7 for years ,but since I blew my engine, I got a little beater to putt around in. Last week I purchased a 1991 CRX HF and I'm trying to get to know my car better. I did did all the fluid changes, engine oil, tranny oil, and brake bleed. Is it ok to use Valoline SynPower 10-30w oil for the tranny and engine? Is 10-30 to light for the tranny?

I was going to replace the plugs but the number 1? Nearest to the distributer wouldn't come out;I try turning it counter clock wise with light to medium pressure but it did not budge. Should I continue to turn it or is it seized? I also notice that oil was
present in all of the spark plug bore. This must have come from the valve cover to spark plug hole right? Note to self, buy a new valve cover gasket set......Is it ok to use NGK Iridium plugs?

I also performed the Seafoam treatment through the brake booster hose and also add it to my fuel tank.

I've also pressure washed my entire engine and now it's sparkling clean. The problem that I'm now having is that it seems to be running on three cylinders at low rpm. From a start, the car is struggling to get to speed, but once it passes 2500 rpm and up, it's fine. But if I'm on the freeway with low load in fifth gear, the car will feel like it' s misfiring there too.

In an attempt to solve this problem, I remove the plug wire and tried to get as much oil out from the plug bore(compress air), and I also remove the distributor cap and blew out any moisture that was under it. The misfire is still there. This is driving me nuts. If you have any solution, please, please, please give it to me.

Thanks for you help, Jay

 

5w-30 for the engine, 10w-30 is alright for the transmission, but I actually prefer and recommend Honda's MTF for the transmission. Oil formulation has changed since the CRX was made so Honda introduced the MTF because it works with the transmission better.

Need to remove the plug. Chances are you may strip it but no choice there really. But it can be repaired using a helicoil if it does get damaged. NGK Iridium will work fine, some say its not worth it, and it probably isn't unless you're running significant power adders. If not, regular copper ones will do the job just fine.

Let's see if it still misfires after the spark plug has been replaced and it's dried out. Btw #1 is nearest to the crank pulley. The one you're referring to is #4

As for the gaskets, there's actually 2 sets of seals for the spark plug tube. The top one which you can see and easily replaced, and another one at the bottom of the tube. Most of the valvetrain (rocker arms, rods, camshaft caps, spark plug tubes etc) are removed as an unit. Just remove the cam cap bolts from the head, but dont take em out. They help keep the assembly which is spring loaded, together. Then pull off the whole assembly. The bottom gaskets are in between that and the head.

You can see what im talking about in the picture here, http://www.hondaautomotivepart...0.gif

Janos

 

Wow, thanks for answering my questions with lots of deails. The númber 4 plug that I was afraid to remove never came off, I'd just tried to remove it but did not want to force it. Now, let say if I did move it and the thread was damage, does the head have to come off to do the Heli-coil thing?
Now as far as the spark plugs are concern. I got them pretty cheap, so why the he'll not.

 

You need to change that last plug. Its probably cross threaded by the previous owner, and if it is, its not sitting properly to get a clean burn.

Just yank it out, put a breaker bar on it if you have to (i did). Then go buy a spark plug tap at any auto parts store and a big *** tub of lithium grease. Put a huge gob of grease on the tap and send it in, doing about 1/4 - 1/2 turn at a time. After each 1/4 - 1/2 turn, take it out, wipe it off with a rag, regrease, and send it in again. Youll feel the resistance when you hit the [freak]ed up threads, but itll slide through the ones youve already done no problem. Send it down a few more times, with fresh grease each time, after youve rethreaded the whole tube, just to collect the rest of the metal shavings. Youre done when it comes back up clean.

Also make sure you only change your plugs when the engine is COLD. These are aluminum heads and they really dont like being messed with when theyre hot.

 

Hey Bob,

So. let me get this right. I don't need to do the Heli-coil repair; so instead, I'm just re-tapping the spark plug thread? Is there enough meat/material to re-thread it?