High Boost JRSC for SOHC (searched)
Alright looked and was wondering about the possibility of just using the b-series high boost kit on the SOHC??? Possible???
If not the only high pulleys i have seen are from ENDYN. any body know of other makers???
Setting up for auto-x car thats why i am leaning torwards JRSC although having trouble finding the right class for me right now too.
If not the only high pulleys i have seen are from ENDYN. any body know of other makers???
Setting up for auto-x car thats why i am leaning torwards JRSC although having trouble finding the right class for me right now too.
You can send your stock crank pulley to http://www.pulleyboys.com/ and they can make a custom overdrive unit for you
sweet, Are you vouching as a good product, have you used them or do you just know of the place.
any one else or is this the only any one has done this?
any one else or is this the only any one has done this?
I started building torwards a 300 HP turbo setup before i came to the realization that for a auto-x ar that is not smart, especially for a light CRX. = no traction.
I am thinking about 230 to 250 hp. and just a linear torque curve. That is why i am trying to figure out something with this high boost JRSC.
Here is my build so far:
Remember i started out for a turbo motor:
CP forged 9.0:1 pistons Ceramic coated and Molly-teflon coated skirts
Eagle ESP H-Beam rods w/ARP bolts
ACL Race Bearing with the same teflon molly coating
eagle block gaurd
Balanced beyond 9000rpm Will teflon coat rods and crank aswell.
Crower valve springs and Tit. retainers
Crower Stage II turbo cam (After also being balanced will, get a teflon only coating)
Crower stainless valves and oversized Exhaust valves
Port work mostly on the exhaust side, and in the combustion chamber, slightly touched intake side (if something aint broke son't fix it, right?)
This is going on a race only car so exhaust is not an issue it will get out quickly. Intake i want to run a short ram and a sealed air box with an inlet from the bumber.
let me know what you think
I am thinking about 230 to 250 hp. and just a linear torque curve. That is why i am trying to figure out something with this high boost JRSC.
Here is my build so far:
Remember i started out for a turbo motor:
CP forged 9.0:1 pistons Ceramic coated and Molly-teflon coated skirts
Eagle ESP H-Beam rods w/ARP bolts
ACL Race Bearing with the same teflon molly coating
eagle block gaurd
Balanced beyond 9000rpm Will teflon coat rods and crank aswell.
Crower valve springs and Tit. retainers
Crower Stage II turbo cam (After also being balanced will, get a teflon only coating)
Crower stainless valves and oversized Exhaust valves
Port work mostly on the exhaust side, and in the combustion chamber, slightly touched intake side (if something aint broke son't fix it, right?)
This is going on a race only car so exhaust is not an issue it will get out quickly. Intake i want to run a short ram and a sealed air box with an inlet from the bumber.
let me know what you think
Well... for your power demands a M45 won't push enough air for you. It maxes out at around 350 CFM which is good for ~230 HP gross (but you'll lose 30 HP just to run it). Plus it will be a stupid way to do it.
The M62 (Used in the B-series JRSC kits) is more up to the task for your demand. It maxes out around 550 CFM which is good for around ~365 HP gross. But the downside is Endyn no longer makes their D-series kits that use this blower.
http://www.theoldone.com/compo...s.htm
Your two options are make your own kit to use a M62 blower (if you have either good fab skills or money) or pay endyn to modify a M45 (which they do for a price).
Currently I'm running an M45 JRSC kit with custom 4 rib pulleys. I haven't dynoed it yet but my math says ~145 lbs gross torque so a realistic output of 160 ish HP NET (whp) at around 10psi max. I'm finding a lot of pros and cons with my setup. I'm wishing I had a larger blower and LHT (or somekind) chargecooler. Also a wider belt would rock.
For your demands I would def look at the M62 spinning it at ~13000 rpm at roughly 6500rpm (make your rev limit 7-7.5k). Once your factor all your losses your goals will be met. If you run a 6.25" crank pulley run a 3.125" blower pulley. You'll be happier than me. I also recommend some kind of cooling unless you have really good R&D. Plus a 5 of 6 rib belt system for reliability. (my 4 rib is a B@tch to put on as it is)
The M62 (Used in the B-series JRSC kits) is more up to the task for your demand. It maxes out around 550 CFM which is good for around ~365 HP gross. But the downside is Endyn no longer makes their D-series kits that use this blower.
http://www.theoldone.com/compo...s.htm
Your two options are make your own kit to use a M62 blower (if you have either good fab skills or money) or pay endyn to modify a M45 (which they do for a price).
Currently I'm running an M45 JRSC kit with custom 4 rib pulleys. I haven't dynoed it yet but my math says ~145 lbs gross torque so a realistic output of 160 ish HP NET (whp) at around 10psi max. I'm finding a lot of pros and cons with my setup. I'm wishing I had a larger blower and LHT (or somekind) chargecooler. Also a wider belt would rock.
For your demands I would def look at the M62 spinning it at ~13000 rpm at roughly 6500rpm (make your rev limit 7-7.5k). Once your factor all your losses your goals will be met. If you run a 6.25" crank pulley run a 3.125" blower pulley. You'll be happier than me. I also recommend some kind of cooling unless you have really good R&D. Plus a 5 of 6 rib belt system for reliability. (my 4 rib is a B@tch to put on as it is)
That is a sweet *** looking kit from endyn. Sucks they don't make it anymore. I would love to have something like that kick ***.
Might contact and see if they will bring it back for a price like you said! I keep seeing peoples numbers and doubting my goal can happen with JRSC. What other modification did you have on your motor for the numbers you reached, or suspect?
The only downside to that system is like you said no sftercooler option avalaible.
Might contact and see if they will bring it back for a price like you said! I keep seeing peoples numbers and doubting my goal can happen with JRSC. What other modification did you have on your motor for the numbers you reached, or suspect?
The only downside to that system is like you said no sftercooler option avalaible.
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My setup...
Y8 bottom/ Z6 head (both rebuilt with stocker honda parts)
Y8 crank pulley (its the biggest one, its heavy but its free!)
Unshimmed alternator (removed the 1/8" spacer from the kit)
3.2" CRX/eg snout pulley (4-rib) 1/2mm off back end 3.5mm of front to fit EK chassis
B16 throttle body
ported S-tube
overpriced hondata hightemp silicone gasket (really doesn't do that much, heatsoak owns me)
moved the MAP sensor
cleaned and rebalanced DSM's to 480cc each
Walbro 255 fuel pump
converted to OBD1 P28 with Neptune
Tri-Y headers with a gradual 2" to 3" exhaust
Slightly lightened flywheel, also rebalanced
Daiken clutch stage-3 (idiot clutch, I don't know why I bought it, WAYYYY to much clamping force)
Rebuilt tranny
factory driveshafts
Mugen RNR's wrapped with Dunlop FM901 205/50/15
Eibach suspension
Pro's
-No oil lines!!! god I hate running oil lines and returns esp with the uber sexy cast aluminium pan
-true bolt on
-pretty decent output even stock at 5.5-6 psi (~25% increase in power)
-who doesn't like the whine?!?!?!
Con's
-upping the boost gives you HUGE intake temps (boil water!!!!)
-Belt is a B@TCH with the 3-rib let alone the 4-rib to install
-can't use the stock intake system (not a biggy, but I wanted to keep it for some reason, I already had a nice K&N drop in )
Future plans
I want to twin-charge it (aka Super Turbo or twin induction) but my first hurdle is to make a nice custom intake mani for charge cooling with a real bypass pipe, not the 1" one. I'm planning on using a T3 super 60 for better overall performance up top with the robustness of the blower for low to mid. I'm also planning to increase the boost level of the little M45 since I'm spinning it just a little over 14k at 7krpm. But I highly doubt that fits into your auto-x groupings, mine is just a dd.
Y8 bottom/ Z6 head (both rebuilt with stocker honda parts)
Y8 crank pulley (its the biggest one, its heavy but its free!)
Unshimmed alternator (removed the 1/8" spacer from the kit)
3.2" CRX/eg snout pulley (4-rib) 1/2mm off back end 3.5mm of front to fit EK chassis
B16 throttle body
ported S-tube
overpriced hondata hightemp silicone gasket (really doesn't do that much, heatsoak owns me)
moved the MAP sensor
cleaned and rebalanced DSM's to 480cc each
Walbro 255 fuel pump
converted to OBD1 P28 with Neptune
Tri-Y headers with a gradual 2" to 3" exhaust
Slightly lightened flywheel, also rebalanced
Daiken clutch stage-3 (idiot clutch, I don't know why I bought it, WAYYYY to much clamping force)
Rebuilt tranny
factory driveshafts
Mugen RNR's wrapped with Dunlop FM901 205/50/15
Eibach suspension
Pro's
-No oil lines!!! god I hate running oil lines and returns esp with the uber sexy cast aluminium pan
-true bolt on
-pretty decent output even stock at 5.5-6 psi (~25% increase in power)
-who doesn't like the whine?!?!?!
Con's
-upping the boost gives you HUGE intake temps (boil water!!!!)
-Belt is a B@TCH with the 3-rib let alone the 4-rib to install
-can't use the stock intake system (not a biggy, but I wanted to keep it for some reason, I already had a nice K&N drop in )
Future plans
I want to twin-charge it (aka Super Turbo or twin induction) but my first hurdle is to make a nice custom intake mani for charge cooling with a real bypass pipe, not the 1" one. I'm planning on using a T3 super 60 for better overall performance up top with the robustness of the blower for low to mid. I'm also planning to increase the boost level of the little M45 since I'm spinning it just a little over 14k at 7krpm. But I highly doubt that fits into your auto-x groupings, mine is just a dd.
ok
I don't know what i would be close too. Right now not knowing if i can get the supercharger to make the power i would like or Close to it, and my cam and pistons that i already have nicely babied ready for install. i don't even know what i want to do right now.
I have to figure out weather i want a super or turbo charger, first thing, so many choices and details i think my head is going to explode.
Fortionatly i am in iraq for some time to come so i have time to figure it out. Just sucks cause i have no way of knowing if i could get that m62 sc to work with a d-series.
I don't know what i would be close too. Right now not knowing if i can get the supercharger to make the power i would like or Close to it, and my cam and pistons that i already have nicely babied ready for install. i don't even know what i want to do right now.
I have to figure out weather i want a super or turbo charger, first thing, so many choices and details i think my head is going to explode.
Fortionatly i am in iraq for some time to come so i have time to figure it out. Just sucks cause i have no way of knowing if i could get that m62 sc to work with a d-series.
I had an idea when stuck in the gaurd towers earlier today.
Could it be possible the cut the base off a sohc maniflod and weld it to the JRSC M62 manifold. I know other people have cut the bases off of other manifold only to weld on onthers, so they could attach to a certain head, but not necisarily honda B-D series though.
I don't have the items in front of me to be able to see if this is possible or not and don't know what other modification would be necissary like fuel rail modification, belt tensioner or other things. If this THEORY is possible you could still run high boost on a SOHC from the M62 and the LHT aftercooler system that is offered!
anyone have input on this, ideas on other modification necissary, or if possible at all???
Could it be possible the cut the base off a sohc maniflod and weld it to the JRSC M62 manifold. I know other people have cut the bases off of other manifold only to weld on onthers, so they could attach to a certain head, but not necisarily honda B-D series though.
I don't have the items in front of me to be able to see if this is possible or not and don't know what other modification would be necissary like fuel rail modification, belt tensioner or other things. If this THEORY is possible you could still run high boost on a SOHC from the M62 and the LHT aftercooler system that is offered!
anyone have input on this, ideas on other modification necissary, or if possible at all???
I recall shortly before someone posted a picture of a modded JRSC manifold. Basicly the blower outlet was boxed off and routed outside to piping, which would go to a normal intercooler, then back into the manifold. It would add some heat, but most would be put through the intercooler.
If you were to get custom pulleys and a bigger blower, I'd just go all out. RMcdaniels has an M90 mounted in the spot where the AC used to be, to an FMIC, to the intake. It wouldn't be much harder or costly than having to buy a d & b-series JRSC kit and weld one onto the other, rather it may be less.
If you were to get custom pulleys and a bigger blower, I'd just go all out. RMcdaniels has an M90 mounted in the spot where the AC used to be, to an FMIC, to the intake. It wouldn't be much harder or costly than having to buy a d & b-series JRSC kit and weld one onto the other, rather it may be less.
Thats pretty intersting, just have to figure out mounting it, piping, and belt tension and belt selection. Any body know this Rmcdaniels? could be worth it to get some info on how he did his set up?
i don't want to go PMing somebody and they never heard of me before! it's a little wierd
i don't want to go PMing somebody and they never heard of me before! it's a little wierd
Several people have done M62's on a D-series, they just bolt them to a plate on the front of the motor and run them off of the AC belt. Then you can use a FMIC. There would be some cutting and welding involved, but I don't think that it would be too hard.
My dual-charger setup was a lot of fun for autox, then you don't have to overdrive the SC, just let it make 6 PSI where it stays efficient and use it to fill in the low end and spool the turbo.
I posted info on my setups here:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1997913
My dual-charger setup was a lot of fun for autox, then you don't have to overdrive the SC, just let it make 6 PSI where it stays efficient and use it to fill in the low end and spool the turbo.
I posted info on my setups here:
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=1
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1997913
230-250whp is still going to be tractionless on your platform. And again, like you said, it all comes down to what class you want to be in.
IMO, it's a waste to go FI for autocross. Courses are far too small for this. I'd mod the heck out of your D-block, n/a style, and do the lightweight treatment to it. Get all the sound deadening out, all unnecessary crap, and run it like that.
Besides the fact that at the slower speeds and constant romping on throttle, the heatsoak from the JRSC is going to be phenomenal and almost engine-killing.
IMO, it's a waste to go FI for autocross. Courses are far too small for this. I'd mod the heck out of your D-block, n/a style, and do the lightweight treatment to it. Get all the sound deadening out, all unnecessary crap, and run it like that.
Besides the fact that at the slower speeds and constant romping on throttle, the heatsoak from the JRSC is going to be phenomenal and almost engine-killing.
Yeah i am having some rule books shiped to me so i cna figure some classes out. Looked at scca solo class, but some rules confused me. The way that i want the car i would run in STX class, but tell me if i am wrong i saw something about no roll cages except for convertibles? I don't have the roll cage in yet so no big deal there, was just planning on it. I did already lighten the doors in a manner that i would have to run some kind of bars cuase there is no side impactprotection without the doorstructure there.
And yeah i looked at honda challenge and they are deff. all n/a. The lightweight treatment is getting done believe me on this one. i run my street car stripped so you know my race car aint going to have ****!
I haven't done too much research on the LHT manifolds but i have heard good things that they really help with the heat soak from that JRSC. combined with hondata gasket, if they make one for a SOHC not sure if they do? i think i remember looking and they don't.
And i don't know if a duel charger setup like that would be legal for anykind of racing out there. ???
And yeah i looked at honda challenge and they are deff. all n/a. The lightweight treatment is getting done believe me on this one. i run my street car stripped so you know my race car aint going to have ****!
I haven't done too much research on the LHT manifolds but i have heard good things that they really help with the heat soak from that JRSC. combined with hondata gasket, if they make one for a SOHC not sure if they do? i think i remember looking and they don't.
And i don't know if a duel charger setup like that would be legal for anykind of racing out there. ???
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chimmike »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the heatsoak from the JRSC is going to be phenomenal and almost engine-killing. </TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL most courses are like one minute laps...............
LOL most courses are like one minute laps...............
Yeah, I don't even bother correcting it any more.
You can get the rules as a PDF from the http://www.solo.org site. Also read the FAQ on that site, it answers some of the more common classing questions (like why a SC'd Civic isn't an STX car).
STX allows up to 2.0L *FACTORY* FI motors. If you add FI to a car it puts it in a modified class. Welcome to Street Modified!
You can get the rules as a PDF from the http://www.solo.org site. Also read the FAQ on that site, it answers some of the more common classing questions (like why a SC'd Civic isn't an STX car).
STX allows up to 2.0L *FACTORY* FI motors. If you add FI to a car it puts it in a modified class. Welcome to Street Modified!
Yeah i looked at the pdf breifly online, we only get so much time each time we use the computers over here so i couldn't look at it real close.
You said street modified. huh? i should have the rule book with in the next couple of days, so i will be able to go through it then to see what other modification is allowed.
Do you think the heat soak would really be that bad if i was say running some hot laps on an open track day or something like that. say running
normal 6-8 psi with a lht manifold???
You said street modified. huh? i should have the rule book with in the next couple of days, so i will be able to go through it then to see what other modification is allowed.
Do you think the heat soak would really be that bad if i was say running some hot laps on an open track day or something like that. say running
normal 6-8 psi with a lht manifold???
I'm pretty sure it would be SM, which is a fast class, but I know a guy who wins in SM all the time in a boosted Civic. It's all about the driver.
My LHT setup eliminated the heat soak problem. I ran it at VIR with no problems. I used a 3" half-width aluminum radiator at the track just for the LHT.
Even with heat soak, if you are only running 6-8 it shouldn't be too bad. I used to see 250+ IAT's non-intercooled at 11 PSI on a B16, enough to remove the coating from the rotors. Even at those temps, with the right tuning it never caused any problems with the motor.
Edit - I say I'm pretty sure it would be SM because I used to run SM, but it's been a couple of years since I read the rules for SM. I run in D Modified now.
My LHT setup eliminated the heat soak problem. I ran it at VIR with no problems. I used a 3" half-width aluminum radiator at the track just for the LHT.
Even with heat soak, if you are only running 6-8 it shouldn't be too bad. I used to see 250+ IAT's non-intercooled at 11 PSI on a B16, enough to remove the coating from the rotors. Even at those temps, with the right tuning it never caused any problems with the motor.
Edit - I say I'm pretty sure it would be SM because I used to run SM, but it's been a couple of years since I read the rules for SM. I run in D Modified now.
Yeah i will double check and see the details for the SM class.
I know that a lot of it is driving, and even with the best setup i'm not going to be very competitive at all in the begining. A lot of it is driver and how he knows the car.
Maybe i will set up for LHT and normal boost get to driving it ok and work up maybe a duel charger setup later on down the road. of course i will probably change my mind on that before i leave the desert oh well! You got a shop in duhram??? i'm going to finish out my contract at fort bragg, and even after that i am from mooresville so i might have check it out if you do. If not where you normally go for track days and such cause i am going to need the practice!
I know that a lot of it is driving, and even with the best setup i'm not going to be very competitive at all in the begining. A lot of it is driver and how he knows the car.
Maybe i will set up for LHT and normal boost get to driving it ok and work up maybe a duel charger setup later on down the road. of course i will probably change my mind on that before i leave the desert oh well! You got a shop in duhram??? i'm going to finish out my contract at fort bragg, and even after that i am from mooresville so i might have check it out if you do. If not where you normally go for track days and such cause i am going to need the practice!
My "shop" is my little workshop behind my house where I work on stuff for my cars, I don't do this for a living. If I need a real shop -w- a lift, etc, then I go to Phantasm in Raleigh and they take care of me.
Phantasm. Ok i will have to remember that for when i get back. thanks for the help i am sure i will probably have more questions at some point that you will be able to chime in on!
thanks guys
thanks guys
Aftermarket forced induction bumps you to Street Modified, *for sure*. Just make sure you don't bump yourself further beyond SM, check before you mod.
I codrive a B18C-powered EG hatch in SM with a 9-10psi JRSC setup. Supercharged power FTW! Really, the drivetrain is the easy part to do on an SM Honda. Getting the grip and suspension to make all that power user-friendly for autocross is the hard part, trust me.
I codrive a B18C-powered EG hatch in SM with a 9-10psi JRSC setup. Supercharged power FTW! Really, the drivetrain is the easy part to do on an SM Honda. Getting the grip and suspension to make all that power user-friendly for autocross is the hard part, trust me.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Crx Jimmy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You can send your stock crank pulley to http://www.pulleyboys.com/ and they can make a custom overdrive unit for you</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used to run the B20 crank pulley on my Z6 to get a few more psi
I used to run the B20 crank pulley on my Z6 to get a few more psi
I will have to remember that about the B20 pulley.
Yeah getting the car to hook up is going to be the fun part, but with a limited setup compared to some with just running the d-series it will hopefully be a little easier for me than some other running torqier motors and turbo's. I am still waiting on my rule book to get here so i will make sure i don't screw my self before i start modifing to much or in the wrong way?
You can run cages right or did i see that right when i saw that SCCA is no cages except on convertibles? I don't have one in yet but was planning on it!
Yeah getting the car to hook up is going to be the fun part, but with a limited setup compared to some with just running the d-series it will hopefully be a little easier for me than some other running torqier motors and turbo's. I am still waiting on my rule book to get here so i will make sure i don't screw my self before i start modifing to much or in the wrong way?
You can run cages right or did i see that right when i saw that SCCA is no cages except on convertibles? I don't have one in yet but was planning on it!


