Well after months of drooling while cruising ht, I have decided to start putting together a budget to build out my b16 for road racing/autocross. This is the first time I have done something like this so please bear with me. I haven't spec'd bottom end out (prolly go 11.5-12 cr), but want to go skunk2 stage2 cams and valvetrain. I was wondering what the cost of buying a ported/polished head and intake should cost. I see that there are many for sale in the marketplace. who are the good techs/shops to buy from? I want to keep this really reliable and has to run on pump gas (91-92 octane) when its not on the track as it will be a dd too.

 

what engine management?
will you run race gas on the track?

 

was looking at the s300. i know its more than I need really, but the datalogging and pc connectivity are attractive for the price. On the track I will run what I can find. The local autocross track doesnt have any available, but 101 and 103 are available at one of the others for sure. I dont really have a place to store drums, so i work with what I can get.

 

Port and Polish can mean many things. All depends on what the person paid for so make sure you know exactly what was done to the head.

 

why are you stuck with those cams? ever thought of going with a b20 block. extra power out the bat right their

 

thot about it, but i have the sirII now. its still a good platform to start with, so the swap isnt worth it. would my header even bolt up? I did a block to tip exhaust a short while ago.

 

is a b20 actually better right out of the box? thats the 126hp crv engine, right?

 

corect but you would put your vtec head on that block......etc
more torque and hp across the board
if your car is a d/d then you could build the short block with little or no down time

 

I have heard bad things with regards to reliability of those. head gaskets i think it was. I dont know if everyone just does them wrong around here, but I do need a reliable hwy car. I have an 800mi trip I do back and forth a couple times a month. a blown head in the mountains does not sound like fun. I was toying with getting another eg and doing that, but not the sol.

 

look man honestly stick to built b16.. if you buy a b20 block you have to balance pistons/rods/crank just to be safe since you're going to be in high rpm 99% of the time until you get flagged..i road race myself and dumped a ITR motor into my car lately since the ITR originally was built for road racing and the motor was factory built to handle high rpm (9000RPM) and beating for many hours..just check your oil

IMO just buy a ITR motor.. hytech race header,buddyclub spec 2 exhaust, 3" short ram intake with BLOX velocity stack/filter.. i put down 187whp/132tq.. good enough power for autocross/road racing..recently i street tuned on crome with skunk2 cam gears and I'm not sure how much power im putting down now, but ill hit the dyno soon




Modified by Fat Chick Magnet at 7:08 AM 6/2/2008

 

for cylinderhead work.. (no polishing lol)

in no particular order, my choices are

Portflow
RLZ
CC(combustion contraption , here)

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1983993
alot of info here

 

awesome, thanks. I tried searching for that, but couldnt seem to get the key words.