I've got a CTR slugged LSVTEC with BCIV's (yes it was clayed and has clearance).
It has a 8lb flywheel and 2 lb crank pulley too. Yes idle is going to suck. Yes, I'm certain someone is going to flame the CTR's. It's H-T and expected.

Anyway, I started it last weekend and I couldn't get it to read above 18:1 A/F no matter how much timing retard I had or fuel added to the tune. When I shut it off it sounded like a vaccuum sucking air in.

I've got a list of things I want to check but if you got anything to add, experienced engine swappers feel free to put your 2 cents in. I know there's a few guys on here that actually did this setup and made nasty power.

The injectors are low impedence Venom 310cc's. Fuel pressure is around 45-50psi. Timing is DEAD ON. (Since I have no Margin for error) I am running 104oct, but it's a few months old. I will be draining that out and putting fresh 104 in.

This is what I will be checking tomorrow and Sunday.

TPS
Closer look at the tune
Vaccuum Lines
Valve Stuck open
Injector Stuck closed
Cam timing

Keep in mind, this is my first real project motor. Granted I had a couple non-vtec integras with mild mods, and I do have mechanical ability and medium level knowledge, but I don't want to leave stones unturned.

for support
to flamers



Modified by LSV_REX at 9:08 PM 5/30/2008

 

are you sure your wideband isnt bad/broken?

plug in a stock ecu and see what happens. stock maps are rich at start up so you should be able to see right away.

 

I have a crappy A/F guage off of the stock O2 in the car AND I have a wideband. They both read the same. The tune is off a stock PW0 Ecu.

 

what the fuuck do you mean the tune is on a stock ecu? rofl.

if the ecu IS stock, meaning you havent chipped it, id say your a/f readings are bullshit and your gauges are lying.

you ARE going off the primary o2 and not the in cat one right?

 

No. Its not a stock ECU. The tune is based off a PW0 B16 OBD0 ECU, then you can add/subtract fuel and timing.

 

You can use BRE to tune it since you have a OBD-0 ecu.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSV_REX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Anyway, I started it last weekend and I couldn't get it to read above 18:1 A/F no matter how much timing retard I had or fuel added to the tune. When I shut it off it sounded like a vaccuum sucking air in.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I guess I don't understand this statment. You are trying to lean the motor out? What does the wideband read in air?

 

the wideband is reading 30:1 which is the leanest AF in the monitoring software. I don't think both the wideband 02 and the stock 02 would both read lean if the car is not lean. I'll be back later with what I find.

 

Finally got the car to stay at 14:1 while my foot was on the gas a [pejorative] hair, but it still won't idle on its own. IACV and TPS check tomorrow.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSV_REX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Finally got the car to stay at 14:1 while my foot was on the gas a [pejorative] hair, but it still won't idle on its own. IACV and TPS check tomorrow.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Your playing with fire here. You need to find the problem and resolve it QUICKLY. You have a brand new engine and you COULD be running either rediculously lean or rich. I think your best bet is to trailer the car to an experienced tuner and let them sort it out. Otherwise, kiss your hard work and money goodbye in that engine. You don't have any room for error here, as you already pointed out.

 

1) Which head. .. with a b16 head you have 13.92 CR.
With a GSR head you have a whopping. 14.33 CR

2) Are you Sure you clayed.. on LS rods on BCIV cams thats huge.. risk.. huge..

3)are you sure that ecu is tuneable?? I know what BRE is.. but.. is it chipped properly.. your injectors i think are too small for the amount of fuel required... i'd swap em out for some obd-I injectors, its really not hard to rewire for..

 

Im kinda confused on what you are doing to test this but here's an idea....make sure you have good fuel delivery(new filter and upgraded fuel pump)and take the car to a dyno. If you are testing it at an idle it will show off the charts lean until it warms up and even then shows lean. The injector size is fine, i run 310's on a 2.4L b-series. You said its your first build like this, it may be a good idea to leave the technical parts to the techs or like earlier stated......BOOM! oil everywhere.... just my $.02

 

swap over to obd1, and use good software (neptune) and u will be helping urself out 10 fold. with such high comp., using inferior software on a set up that leaves such little room for error is an exercise in futility

 

I talked with a friend of mine who has built a few hondas and his advice was to switch to OBD1 to get a better range of tuning options. Neptune was highly recommended. Also, I am going to be taking it to an experienced tuner shortly but it needs to run before I can do that. I definitely don't plan on tuning it myself.


Modified by LSV_REX at 8:12 PM 6/2/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1) Which head. .. with a b16 head you have 13.92 CR.
With a GSR head you have a whopping. 14.33 CR

2) Are you Sure you clayed.. on LS rods on BCIV cams thats huge.. risk.. huge..

3)are you sure that ecu is tuneable?? I know what BRE is.. but.. is it chipped properly.. your injectors i think are too small for the amount of fuel required... i'd swap em out for some obd-I injectors, its really not hard to rewire for..</TD></TR></TABLE>

The head is a PR3 and it has a cometic .044" headgasket

 

You're going to do all that motor work and stay obd0.

Convert to OBD1 get a better fuel management.
Throw in some stock 240cc injectors.
Double check EVERYTHING.
Get a tune.

 

I am going to go OBD1 and Neptune. But I am definitely sticking with at least 310cc injectors. If this thing ever runs right, 240's would max out, and I'm so afraid of lean high rpm's that 240's are a big risk. A couple of tunes at Bristol Dyno said to go with 310's.

 

UPDATE from the weekend.


Modified by LSV_REX at 10:35 PM 6/4/2008

 

Anyway, I recalibrated that wideband. Once it warmed up on the car and me and a friend of mine got it to run between 13.5:1 and 15:1 1/4 throttle up to 3000rpms. So I guess the guages were lying.
I am only running this tuning program now while I check for leaks, and drain the oil and possible metal shaving out of a 81.5mm bored B18A Block.

 

Out of curiosity, why are you running such high fuel pressure? 45-50psi is really high. Running that high of fuel pressure will hurt the atomization of the fuel.

 

where you getting your motor tuned at?

 

I was going to go to Bristol Dyno in CT, but that looks iffy now. Apparently he's got the "business" up for sale.

 

what wideband are you using?

 

Innovate LC-1 Lambda Cable w/ O2 Sensor (Standalone WBO2)

 

I'm still waiting for my radiator to come in before I can work on this thing again. The old one was junk and started pissing fluid everywhere when it warmed up.