compression between b18c and b16 head....
So I did a search and didnt find much besides flow numbers. I've heard this go both ways so I figured I'd post it up for you guys to answer.....
on a stock gsr block, if you put a b16 head on it does it lower or raise the compression?
on a stock gsr block, if you put a b16 head on it does it lower or raise the compression?
lower. but not by much. i thought i [freak]ed up my head and bent a valve or two awhile back, so i talked to precisionh23a on here (anthony) at his shop and he gave me a whole rundown of the pros and cons of it. i got smarter standing next to him.
if you're considering this, i'd consider a gsr head instead. thats just me though.
if you're considering this, i'd consider a gsr head instead. thats just me though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by posHonda »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lower</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Ok so I have a gsr with stock block.....
putting on a gsr head will have higher compression and be better for all motor right?
and putting on a b16 head will lower compression (enough to matter?) which allows for a safer boost application, that correct?
does it matter if either are ported? im guessing no since the port areas arent in the compression area but just making sure.
Im basically looking to do an all motor setup with a refreshed stock bottom end (if possible) and looking to have 210-225 whp
putting on a gsr head will have higher compression and be better for all motor right?
and putting on a b16 head will lower compression (enough to matter?) which allows for a safer boost application, that correct?
does it matter if either are ported? im guessing no since the port areas arent in the compression area but just making sure.
Im basically looking to do an all motor setup with a refreshed stock bottom end (if possible) and looking to have 210-225 whp
Damn thats gonna cost you $2000+ unless you already have some good parts or you get some parts for a really cheap price. I learned my lesson (shoulda gone boosted)
I spent $1500 and got 180whp but some of that money went to oem parts for reliability like timing belt, new bearings and such. If i spent another 500 i could of hit 200whp for sure. But I'm saving to boost my car now
Just think it through clearly before you head on a route. But help your question my friend has a Poor Mans Type-r and its pretty fast. I think he has skunk2 stg2 cams and jdm itr pistons hitting around 200+whp. But I can also get that much hp with my gsr if i had his set up. So if you have a gsr head then stick with it and + its legal.
I spent $1500 and got 180whp but some of that money went to oem parts for reliability like timing belt, new bearings and such. If i spent another 500 i could of hit 200whp for sure. But I'm saving to boost my car now
Just think it through clearly before you head on a route. But help your question my friend has a Poor Mans Type-r and its pretty fast. I think he has skunk2 stg2 cams and jdm itr pistons hitting around 200+whp. But I can also get that much hp with my gsr if i had his set up. So if you have a gsr head then stick with it and + its legal.
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I thought about boosting it but I had (still kinda have) a 91 talon that was turbo and close to 400awhp. Loved the boost but just looking to try out a all motor setup this time. Plus I need it to be pretty reliable since it'll be my DD. Plus it'll still look stock and I wont get any idiots when they see my car saying "that car has a front mount on it, Im going to race it"
http://www.zealautowerks.com/ has a compression calculator.
it dropped slightly lower, from 10:1 to ~9.8:1.
it dropped slightly lower, from 10:1 to ~9.8:1.
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