Bangers

Firstly, I don't know who owns this car but I just wanna say I think it's sex on wheels. I believes it's from the recent Eibach meet.

What camber is this? Obviously it's Equips 03's.

I'm guessing its 15x7 +25, running negative camber?

Will Buddyclub Camber Kit be able to run such a camber?

Thanks,
Matt

ezza

I dont think the owner would tell tbh, i would say the offset is lower than +25.

Id be interested to know though

ezza

Also id be inclined to say they were 16's

builtboosted

there are 16x8 +15
i would also like to know what tires hes running

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also id be inclined to say they were 16's</TD></TR></TABLE>

They're not 16's. The information was on his "stolen" thread.
15x8 +13

https://honda-tech.com/zero...ge=19

r.wright

iTrader: (58)

those equips only came in 14" and 15"

and matt is right

prolly omni camber arms set all the way to negative to the max

sicc83

Haven't seen any correct info yet in this thread. The owner doesn't really want the specs out there, so just break out the measuring tape and figure out what will work for you.

ezza

i agree, im goin with my own setup, but still in out of interest if anyone knows

Im going to guess anyway, i reckon 16x8-8.5 - 10et

I understand that the wheels may have been only made in 14 or 15" but whats to say the lip isnt aftermarket and wouldnt add the extra inch? because they really do look bigger than 15" to me, unless its just the way its shot?

Im not THAT bothered but im having a guess anyway

ezza

just looked on his thread and they do look like 15's its just those shots^

Why would alexisthemovie post the specs if they were wrong sic83?

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i agree, im goin with my own setup, but still in out of interest if anyone knows

Im going to guess anyway, i reckon 16x8-8.5 - 10et

I understand that the wheels may have been only made in 14 or 15" but whats to say the lip isnt aftermarket and wouldnt add the extra inch? because they really do look bigger than 15" to me, unless its just the way its shot?

Im not THAT bothered but im having a guess anyway </TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm telling you they're not 16's.

Here's a 15x8 +10 in gold:

ezza

point taken, but you have to admit they do look bigger than 15" with such a lip.

Sorry if this had been covered (which it probably.......definately has) but lets say that phase 2 eg has 15x8 +10, i have some 15x7 +10 does that mean mine will be 1/2 inch inset in comparison to that eg?

(i know that the eg's setup is not confirmed but i just humour me)

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">point taken, but you have to admit they do look bigger than 15" with such a lip.

Sorry if this had been covered (which it probably.......definately has) but lets say that phase 2 eg has 15x8 +10, i have some 15x7 +10 does that mean mine will be 1/2 inch inset in comparison to that eg?

(i know that the eg's setup is not confirmed but i just humour me)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, your car would have a 1/2" smaller lip.

ezza

thanks

sicc83

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">just looked on his thread and they do look like 15's its just those shots^

Why would alexisthemovie post the specs if they were wrong sic83?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't know, but those aren't the right specs.

Go play around with this, it should help you out. http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

r.wright

iTrader: (58)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

but whats to say the lip isnt aftermarket </TD></TR></TABLE>

because i know arnel wouldn't shell out $1000 for after market barrels lol and plus i looked at his car up close and i know for a FACT equips weren't made in 16"

but then i do admit i saw a set on the japan auctions in 16" w/ 16" tires installed .... arnel's wheels may look like 16" due to them being on a small car and that he is running very low profile tires..

you got like 2 wheel gurus(sic and matt) telling you the right answers and you still won't listen- lol

i don't know about the specs but then it looks like sub 10's offset...

what i did w/ my accord is just measure w/ an L shaped tool from the brake hub to the edge of the fender then figure out what tire i needed.

there is a link in the FAQ's section about how to measure offsets,brake clearance and widths on a wheel.. once you understand that then you should be fine..

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1188922

and on a side note:

i don't roll daily on my aggressive sizes.... my car was way too low and the profile tire was unbearable like rolling on rubberbands.

ezza

Thanks both for the usefull links

I am listening im just saying they do look like 16's (im not saying they definately are), seeing as your both wheel experts see what ideas you came come up with for me here:

http://forum.hondaevolutions.c...89133

ANY help much appreciated

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

You have to be a member on that site, just to see whatever you're referring to.

ezza

oops, sorry.

Completely jacked the thread and i apologise.

but (copied and pasted):

I have managed to get my hands on a set of wheels iv wanted for decades, the problem bieng they are the complete wrong fitment, my quest is to make them fit. If you were interested they are enkie 92's 15x7

My car has ITR hubs so they are 5x114.3 and the std offset for my car is 35-45

The wheels however are from a porsche and are 5x130 and the offset is 10 which after much deliberation i have decided is roughly the offset that i want to end up with.

Now obviously there are a few ways of doing this but so far they have all been dead end ideas,

My first thought was 'just use adapters!'
Through a bit of reaserch the thinnest adapters i have come across are 15mm (im not even sure if 15mm ones for my aplication are available) so using those would give me a offset of -5 which is a bit too low for me. Then i thought about getting the hub of the wheel machined to compensate for the spacers (after much debate about there being enough meat on the wheel hub to be machined i settled for taking 8mm off giving me an offset of 3!), but when i took it to the machine shop for them to have a look they pointed out that there were inserts in the barrel of where the studs go through (dont know the name) and taking 8mm off the back would not leave nearly enough material for the nuts to hold on.
So my next idea was to have the hubs themselves re drilled* much the same way you would redrill a set of wheels to a different pcd, drilling the 'in between bits' but when i went further into it i realised the studs are splined, so i would need to have the holes drilled AND splined, i rang the machine shop back up and they said they couldnt do it and didnt know of anywhere that could, so.................help!.....please!

* http://www.pelicanparts.com/te....htm

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

I would have the original holes filled, and have new ones drilled in their location. I've got 2 sets of wheels with this method performed. It'd mean you'd have to re-finish the faces and the hubs, but it'd be the most effective way to change the wheel's bolt pattern.

sicc83

My solution: see if this guy will ship to the UK. http://www.hondamarketplace.com/zerothread/2301960

ezza

Both good ideas but again both floored for me i think.

toyomatt: The back of enkie 92's have cavaties between each hole meaning that I run the risk of each new hole being too close to the edge of where this cavatie begins (if that makes sense). I would post pics but im at work (night shift sucks ).

sicc: Its funny you should post them i was eyeing those up a while ago, my problem there being it cost me 250quid (about $500) to get my set into the country and frankly i cant afford the price he's asking ontop of 250 shipping, also i would only be 5mm better off

Im intregued about the filling idea though, have you got close up pics?
On the enkies the 5 holes that the studs go through are one size all the way down and the bit that the nut grips is a seperate peice pressed in (which is not very thick atall hence why i couldnt get the back of them machined) but i suppose i could remove this and then fill the holes as i want to re finish the wheels anyway.

I think i would struggle to find somewhere to do this in the UK though, or is this more commob practice than i thought?

thanks again guys

ezza

I had a sudgestion on another forum that i buy adapters and have them machined down to aquire maybe a 0 offset, im not sure how 0 offset would look on a dc2 though, again i suppose its all about getting the right combo of stretch and camber to get the clearance i need because i really do NEED to slam it.

does anybody know what are the thinnest adapters available are? even if they dont do them for my application i could have them re worked.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">toyomatt: The back of enkie 92's have cavaties between each hole meaning that I run the risk of each new hole being too close to the edge of where this cavatie begins (if that makes sense). I would post pics but im at work (night shift sucks ).

Im intregued about the filling idea though, have you got close up pics?
On the enkies the 5 holes that the studs go through are one size all the way down and the bit that the nut grips is a seperate peice pressed in (which is not very thick atall hence why i couldnt get the back of them machined) but i suppose i could remove this and then fill the holes as i want to re finish the wheels anyway.

I think i would struggle to find somewhere to do this in the UK though, or is this more commob practice than i thought?

thanks again guys </TD></TR></TABLE>

I don't have close ups, and I won't be able to get some for a while (I'm at work as well). But, they filled in the original holes, so there was no worry about the cavities between the original lug holes. I haven't had issues driving on them, but I need to do some clean-up on the welding job they did, because they really didn't do any finish work. It's kind of rough on the face-side. The hubs are mint though.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had a sudgestion on another forum that i buy adapters and have them machined down to aquire maybe a 0 offset, im not sure how 0 offset would look on a dc2 though, again i suppose its all about getting the right combo of stretch and camber to get the clearance i need because i really do NEED to slam it.

does anybody know what are the thinnest adapters available are? even if they dont do them for my application i could have them re worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 0 offset on a 8" wide wheel is different than a 0 offset on a 7" wide wheel. You could probably fit a 7" wide wheel with 0 offset, using camber, tire stretch, and a fender roller. But, you cannot machine down those converters and expect them to work. First of all, the original lug studs are much longer than 15mm, so where are they going after you bolt on the adapters? Into the hub of the wheels. So, if there's not enough room for them (meaning cavities), the setup won't work. Secondly, you need room for the bolts to mount, on the adapters. Not enough room, and you could pull the lug bolts right through the converters. Then, you'll definitely be slammed... because your wheels will fall off the car.

ezza

Ok then, the best idea seems to be having the holes filled and re-drilled, how much can i expect to pay for this and where would i take it too? I know you arent going to know a specific place over here but i mean a general machine shop or would a wheel specialist place do it? or would i have to use both??

If i could get this to work then i could get the 10 offset i wanted and if after mounting them i feel necasary i could space them to 0et

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ezza &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok then, the best idea seems to be having the holes filled and re-drilled, how much can i expect to pay for this and where would i take it too? I know you arent going to know a specific place over here but i mean a general machine shop or would a wheel specialist place do it? or would i have to use both??

If i could get this to work then i could get the 10 offset i wanted and if after mounting them i feel necasary i could space them to 0et </TD></TR></TABLE>


I paid about $200 per set, for the fill 'n' drill. I had it done by a small shop in California, thanks to my good friend Ralph.