Hi, I been doing some research on KY/GC coilovers.
I cant find a topic that talks about the best spring rates for the Crx.
I want to know what spring rate everyone suggests?
Thanks.

 

It really depends on what you want your suspension to ultimately do for you.

I know that Mountain View has nice roads, so something with a stiffer spring rate wouldn't hurt @ maybe 12/10 unless you're looking for a ride comparable to stock..

 

I ride on 400f/500r. Rides awesome on the street and haven't had a chance at track time.

Stiff, but not unbearable as a daily. Corners like it's on rails.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Manny. &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I ride on 400f/500r. Rides awesome on the street and haven't had a chance at track time.

Stiff, but not unbearable as a daily. Corners like it's on rails. </TD></TR></TABLE>

are you using the koni sport or race shocks?

 

I'm on the sports with the top hats all around. I was informed that the sports are good up to a 600lb spring.

 

have you sat in a car with stiff springs yet? if so hows your tolerance? i had 560/448 on my teg and they were unbearable. i swapped out those coilovers for koni/gc 350/250 with full soft dampening. it is awesome for dd.

 

i posted this on another thread i just copied it over


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NlCK B &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> i have been doing a lot of research on this most of this information comes from honda challenge racers

there are two setups for beginners and for the more experienced the hands down choice for both setups where the gc/koni setup and they don't go bellow a 4 inch ride hight

setup 1 good for aggressive street driving, canyons, auto x, occasional track day, and the track beginner

koni yellow sports with ground control top hats or
koni sp3's with ground control top hats

ground controls
400-500lbs front spring rates
500-600lbs rear spring rates
(generally they have a 100Lb difference between them)

stock all around sway bars or a thicker rear can be used too

setup 2 too aggressive for street only for the track

koni yellow sports with race valving and ground control top hats or
koni race shocks (do to the shorten koni body ground control top hats are unnecessary)

ground controls
600-700lbs front spring rates
800-900lbs rear spring rates

no front sway bar
very thick rear sway bar


after all this research there is no doubt that gc/koni combo is the best setup but i'm still torn i can get ksports for 500 with custom springs rates i'm most likely going to spend twice the money and get the gc/koni setup thought from what i hear from a lot of racers i will not be sorry hope this helps some ppl
[/i]</TD></TR></TABLE>





Modified by NlCK B at 7:14 AM 5/28/2008

 

Hey thanks for everyones info.
Anybody know where i can get a set for a 90 crx si for a decent price?
What are top hats for? Is that nessesary ? thanks.

 

I have a hatchback set up for autocross.
I have the yellows(see below) and the GC sleeves.
The spring rates are 400 front and 550 rear. Tough for the street but I can live with it.
The stock Koni yellows cannot handle spring rates above 350 to 400 pounds/in.
I'd suggest the 350/250 rates that were suggested earlier unless you want to go the extra distance and call Jeff Wong at ProParts and have the Yellows revalved to SPSS3 spec. In that case they will handle the higher rates.
FWIW the stock rates are 200 lbs/in front and 100 lbs/in rear.

Also...if you want to have them re-valved also have them shortened(ProParts) and there will be no need for the hats. Total cost for the re-valve and shortening may be around $600-$700.


Modified by brittd at 4:24 PM 5/31/2008

 

stock koni yellow are good to 600 lbs i believe i know they can handle 500 no problem and if you are willing to spend the money on revalving and shortening the shock you should just get the koni race shock but then again thats kind of over kill all you need is koni yellow or the koni sp'3 if you want a little more aggressive valving


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by brittd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a hatchback set up for autocross.
I have the yellows(see below) and the GC sleeves.
The spring rates are 400 front and 550 rear. Tough for the street but I can live with it.
The stock Koni yellows cannot handle spring rates above 350 to 400 pounds/in.
I'd suggest the 350/250 rates that were suggested earlier unless you want to go the extra distance and call Jeff Wong at ProParts and have the Yellows revalved to SPSS3 spec. In that case they will handle the higher rates.
FWIW the stock rates are 200 lbs/in front and 100 lbs/in rear.

Also...if you want to have them re-valved also have them shortened(ProParts) and there will be no need for the hats. Total cost for the re-valve and shortening may be around $600-$700.


Modified by brittd at 4:24 PM 5/31/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>


the top hats give you extra suspension travel they are not necessary however if you plan on lowering your car more than 2 inches i highly recommend you get them


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by d00d00dumb87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey thanks for everyones info.
Anybody know where i can get a set for a 90 crx si for a decent price?
What are top hats for? Is that nessesary ? thanks.</TD></TR></TABLE>


now if you are looking for a more street able setup then what i'm suggesting above i'd run the same spring rate all around like 350 should be comfy then i'd play around with thick sway bars definably a really thick rear sway bar the thicker the better and a thinner front it will ride smooth going straight but still feel aggressive in the corners and with the thicker rear bar it will let the car act like you have a heavier spring in the back

this is just to clarify why you want a heavier rear end
almost all coil over companies sale there setup with a heavier front than rear now well this is good for the average customer that just wants a more aggressive lower ride this is not good for those of us that want are cars to handle to the best of it's capabilities another reason why they have heavier fronts is to make the rear have more traction and this allows the car to understeer( where you have the wheel turned and the car keeps going straight) this is better for the average driver because understeer is a lot easier to control than over steer but this is bad for those of us who want to get threw the corner the fastest this is why we have heavier rears this allows the car to turn threw the corner easier and act more nimble threw corners


hope this helps some people out and answers some questions


ps: sorry about the botch job on the grammar i'm no English major


Modified by NlCK B at 8:53 PM 5/31/2008

 

NICK B is on the muthaf*ckin ball ladies and gentleman. I love how my car feels on the road, stable and nimble as hell.

koni/gc

 

where is the best spot to get this GC/KY suspension kit for a good price?

 

this is the cheapest i have seen i dont know if any body else has seen them for cheaper https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/1689953

 

how much difference is there between the sport, sp3, and spss3? which is worth getting?

 

Left: Koni Race, Right: Koni Sport

 

have you tried both? if so do they feel the same or is one stiffer than the other?

 

any pics of sp3 vs race (SPSS3)?

 

just trying to get all the info i can before making a big purchase.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by negum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any pics of sp3 vs race (SPSS3)?</TD></TR></TABLE>

They are just like the race, but with different insides, AFAIK.

For the record, I use 450f/400r, no problems on daily driving, and I autox competitively. You can really do a lot with the CRXs suspension to get rotation and control without going wild on spring rates. Crazy high spring rates are only at their best on really smooth tracks, not streets.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSR CRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how much difference is there between the sport, sp3, and spss3? which is worth getting?</TD></TR></TABLE> for just another 50 bucks you can upgrade the package from koni sports to the sp3s i think it's worth it here is another link with some info http://209.18.87.102//store/pr...18820 but if you decide to buy them i'd go to the link i posted earlier and pm that guy i think you get an additional discount i'm not to sure thought also unless you are building a full out track car i think the koni race shocks are over kill the sp3s are more than enough for street and auto x

 

The sp3's are just regular Koni yellows but with an increased droop limiter and two extra grooves machined into the body for the cir-clip.
I believe they were/are made for nuespeed to their specs but the valving is the same as the yellows. Mostly designed to give you more range in adjustment with regular springs like their race or sport springs.

CRX Lee says it here pretty clear. (for those who don't know, he works for Koni North America)

The current racing valving is called SPSS3 (first called SPSS long ago, updated then called SPSS1, updated for quick builds on the service trailer and called SPSS2, and finally updated a few years ago to the current valving SPSS3). This valving is in the current 8041-XXXXRACE which has a 1 inch shorter body and approx. 40mm of extra droop limiter/rebound stop. Since the SPSS3 is getting a very high amount of damping force from the shock of that size, I really don't expect there to need to be a further step. If you need much more, time to head to a 3011.3012 or a 2812.

For over a decade, we have also made a special version of the KONI Sport shock for Neuspeed with alternate spring perch grooves and an extra 20mm rebound stop/Droop limiter and normal Sport body length and valving and it was called 8041-XXXXSP3. This is a very good unit and has a place inthe market but just not on a dedicated racing car.

 

yeah sorry about that they do have normal valving but i still think it's worth the extra 50 bucks for the extra ride hight adjustment and extra 20mm drop here is a link to info on the sp3's http://www.neuspeed.com/produc...=1134

thanks "import2nr88" for clearing that up

 

Whats the difference between these ? Just length of shock body ?

 

Shock body length and the race will be able to handle higher spring rates without oscillating (aka: bouncy-bouncy)

 

Whats and where's the cheapest price on the Koni race for 1991 civic si ?