im building a hig compression gsr.

what i have now.

block is bored .20 over
head is milled
skunk2 valvetrain
h beam rods

the car is going to be daily driven but i want it to rip. so my quesions are what pistons and cams would you recommend? and how high should i go on cr

 

so what led you to determine that you needed high compression? especially on a daily driver?

 

for a DD. i'd suggest p30 pistons. they're readily available in a .20 overbore. stock honda pistons, rings, and bearings with arp rod bolts, and u'll have yourself a solid daily motor.

 

i already have h beam rods and stock honda pistons wont work with aftermarket rods. i sed it wrong its going to be driven on the street all the time but not everyday sorry for the confusion. i want high compression so i can get decent power out of it.

 

If its an all motor street car, I would sell the H-beam rods, use the stock gsr rods, PR3 or P30 pistons, ARP rod bolts, ACL bearings, NPR or Hasting rings and get the bottom end balanced. As far as cams, there are lots of cams to choose from depending on how wild you wanna go, Rocket, Skunk2, Buddy Club, Brian Crower cams just to name a few.

 

first off i want to thank you guys for the info. but why should i sell the h beam rods and use stock rods? arent h beams stronger?

 

The forged rods are stronger than stock, but stock rods w/ arp rod bolts are more than enough for an all motor build. That way by using stock rods, you can still use much lesser expensive cast pistons which are also strong enough for all motor builds, w/o having to get them machined to work with forged rods.

 

...plus GSR/ITR rods are forged from the factory which is why they are strong enough for most all motor builds. Aftermarket forged rods like Eagle tend to be heavier than stock and less reciprocating weight is ALWAYS better.

....also compression isn't the be-all-end-all for making power. Proper part selection and less compression will always make more power safely and reliably than more power and poor part choices.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 00Red_SiR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...plus GSR/ITR rods are forged from the factory which is why they are strong enough for most all motor builds. Aftermarket forged rods like Eagle tend to be heavier than stock and less reciprocating weight is ALWAYS better.

....also compression isn't the be-all-end-all for making power. Proper part selection and less compression will always make more power safely and reliably than more power and poor part choices.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've heard that also, but wasn't sure. Are they also shotpeened?

 

i knew that the eagle rods where heavier but it never dawned on me that they would affect revving. the thing that sucks is that i already bought them and if i try to sell them im not gonna get what i payed for. but on the other hand i do have a set of ctr pistons, but not stock rods.

 

Think about it, if you keep and use the H-beams, your either gonna have to get the CTR pistons machined to work w/ the H-beams, that is gonna cost you quite a bit of $, or get forged pistons that is gonna cost you a grip of $
Or you sell you H-beams, lose $20-40 or so, buy some used gsr rods for cheap and use those CTR pistons you already have.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Think about it, if you keep and use the H-beams, your either gonna have to get the CTR pistons machined to work w/ the H-beams, that is gonna cost you quite a bit of $, or get forged pistons that is gonna cost you a grip of $
Or you sell you H-beams, lose $20-40 or so, buy some used gsr rods for cheap and use those CTR pistons you already have.</TD></TR></TABLE> I agree with him. Only reason I use all forged internals and mild compression(cc'd dead nuts at 11:1) is because my motor is built to spray a bunch

 

Yeah, if this was a mild FI build or if it was gonna see juice, then I would definately reccomend forged internals. But for all motor, stock is fine.

 

i am thinking about spraying it but not right when i get it running.

 

Then don't use a cast piston.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FST GSR 1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then don't use a cast piston.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I use a cast piston and I spray without problems, but I don't overboard either.

 

hey everyone sorry i havent been on in a while my internet got shut off but anywaz... ive decided to buy forged pistons i was thinking about going with cp pistons. whats the highest compression i can go with a stock head gasket? and what do you guys think about the skunk2 stage2 cams?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey everyone sorry i havent been on in a while my internet got shut off but anywaz... ive decided to buy forged pistons i was thinking about going with cp pistons. whats the highest compression i can go with a stock head gasket? and what do you guys think about the skunk2 stage2 cams?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i'd go with 11.1-11.5 compression just to be safe...you can run that compression on the street while still on 91 pump gas with no issues (provided you have a good tune on your motor)

 

http://www.importbuilders.com/

http://www.theoldone.com/

I live by the motto "If you are going to do something, do it right."

Either of those companies will sell you a piston that will actually make more horsepower than your average forged piston of the same compression. Research is your friend.

Edit: I haven't checked out Jeff's site in quite awhile... I think the "race prep" is still the IB Spec pistons though, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93egboosted &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> whats the highest compression i can go with a stock head gasket? </TD></TR></TABLE>

fyi...they have nothing to do with each other. Compression is based on a number of other factors and I'd suggest you figure them out before you start building.

 

I run CP pistons. Weisco are good too. Good choice on forged internals, no reason to waste money!

How do you plan to spray this motor? Hondata?