look what i found under my mugen kit
haaar!
mass rust, an entire pannel made out of 3mm thick thinner, and shed loads of rust to boot lol!
at least the mugen kit still had the oem labels and markings on them lol!






already have replacement arch pannels on order, and a guy lined up to fab me up some new inner arches+lower sill points lol.
mass rust, an entire pannel made out of 3mm thick thinner, and shed loads of rust to boot lol!
at least the mugen kit still had the oem labels and markings on them lol!






already have replacement arch pannels on order, and a guy lined up to fab me up some new inner arches+lower sill points lol.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,779
Likes: 2
From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
Wow, was that a real Mugen kit you had or a knock off? The bolt holes look in the same location as my Mugen kit, but I can't beleive you had a real kit with those rice fenders. That chassis looks beat, I would look for a new one to swap all your stuff onto.
yes the fenders are rice. (previous owner fitted them)
and soon to be removed. yes its genuine mugen, see my earlier threads
its not that rusty, actually for the uk its not half bad. its seen 15+ years or road salt,severe frosting and **** loads of rain.
ill tell you what, you give me the £3500gbp i need to get a semi decent SiR off the boat (thats circa $8000usd btw) and ill start on a new shell :lol:
the chassis is near rot free in most other places, i can think out of our owners club maybe five owners have uk cars that are original without rust, its a given with hondas of this age over here in the uk that they are going to rot out on the rear. would be nice if we got a nice dry temperate climate like AZ or cali, even japan lol
still not had a chance to get the other side off yet, its probably been stuck on with fiberglass/filler and the dreaded window bonder stuff! (6 hours to get side off without cracking it lol)
and soon to be removed. yes its genuine mugen, see my earlier threads
its not that rusty, actually for the uk its not half bad. its seen 15+ years or road salt,severe frosting and **** loads of rain.
ill tell you what, you give me the £3500gbp i need to get a semi decent SiR off the boat (thats circa $8000usd btw) and ill start on a new shell :lol:

the chassis is near rot free in most other places, i can think out of our owners club maybe five owners have uk cars that are original without rust, its a given with hondas of this age over here in the uk that they are going to rot out on the rear. would be nice if we got a nice dry temperate climate like AZ or cali, even japan lol
still not had a chance to get the other side off yet, its probably been stuck on with fiberglass/filler and the dreaded window bonder stuff! (6 hours to get side off without cracking it lol)
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 6,779
Likes: 2
From: Land of the free, whoever told you that is your enemy
CRXes that are rust free should never be driven in rain or snow, and they will remain rust free. Expecially a CRX with Mugen parts. Oh wear did Margaret Thatcher go wrong. People that ruin rust free crxes should be charged by a federal offence, punished by the death sentence. I've been emailing Bush to get him to make it a reality here. BW2 kit crx installers will be stoned to death as well.
I live in a rust climate in Ohio, and my KRX had a bit of rust, but it was repaired, and no where near as bad as your project. I fixxed it, new quaters welded in, and it has not rusted in the last 11 years I owned it, which is longer than the 8 years it took to start to rust the first time. My car is an 89, so I have now owned it most of it's life. I don't drive it in the winter. A good way to force this is by removing the heater. I decided I wanted another CRX though so I just bought another rust free CRX from Cali for $2500. It was a long drive, but worth it. I also brought back a real Mugen front bumper for my KRX. It completes my kit on my KRX.
Honestly if you mess with Hondas, and live anywhere other than California, Arizona, or Japan, then you are screwed. Your gonna have a fun time getting the good stuff. I mean it is possible to get Mugen parts, and rust free CRXes, but it is just more work, and more of a pain. Your definitly at a disadvantage. It was 2500 miles of a pain for me, but it was a fun journey. I got to see my friends at Hasport, too. I bet if I got all the money and time back I have in shipping, and traveling for stuff. I could have completed my car twice.
If you are wondering, I got the rest of my kit from a guy in Chicago. Not sure how it got there???? It was much closer though only being 6hrs away from me. I bought the front bumper from Japan and had it imported to Cali. It came through customs a day before I picked it up, and bought my other crx. Such a freaking hassle.
I live in a rust climate in Ohio, and my KRX had a bit of rust, but it was repaired, and no where near as bad as your project. I fixxed it, new quaters welded in, and it has not rusted in the last 11 years I owned it, which is longer than the 8 years it took to start to rust the first time. My car is an 89, so I have now owned it most of it's life. I don't drive it in the winter. A good way to force this is by removing the heater. I decided I wanted another CRX though so I just bought another rust free CRX from Cali for $2500. It was a long drive, but worth it. I also brought back a real Mugen front bumper for my KRX. It completes my kit on my KRX.
Honestly if you mess with Hondas, and live anywhere other than California, Arizona, or Japan, then you are screwed. Your gonna have a fun time getting the good stuff. I mean it is possible to get Mugen parts, and rust free CRXes, but it is just more work, and more of a pain. Your definitly at a disadvantage. It was 2500 miles of a pain for me, but it was a fun journey. I got to see my friends at Hasport, too. I bet if I got all the money and time back I have in shipping, and traveling for stuff. I could have completed my car twice.
If you are wondering, I got the rest of my kit from a guy in Chicago. Not sure how it got there???? It was much closer though only being 6hrs away from me. I bought the front bumper from Japan and had it imported to Cali. It came through customs a day before I picked it up, and bought my other crx. Such a freaking hassle.
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found someone to weld it and fab me up lower sills though. should be back to normal then along comes mr.spray job :lol:
guess i cant get my ctr cams into my b20 this month now having to pay for all this
jsut spent the last 2 hours in the in the pouring ran trying to get my other mugen door cap off, only to get to the last inner nut to find its rotten away and rounded !
cant be asked with it, going to leave it until tomorrow and get at it with the mole grips, sucks as its the hardest one to get to right at the front of the door
cant be asked with it, going to leave it until tomorrow and get at it with the mole grips, sucks as its the hardest one to get to right at the front of the door
needs to come off so i can get the the front mugen kit so i can "prise" it off very very gently lol.
also i need to know if rots is hiding in there lol.
got my repair pannels though lol
also i need to know if rots is hiding in there lol.
got my repair pannels though lol
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXBart »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRXes that are rust free should never be driven in rain or snow, and they will remain rust free. Expecially a CRX with Mugen parts. Oh wear did Margaret Thatcher go wrong. People that ruin rust free crxes should be charged by a federal offence, punished by the death sentence. I've been emailing Bush to get him to make it a reality here. BW2 kit crx installers will be stoned to death as well.
I live in a rust climate in Ohio, and my KRX had a bit of rust, but it was repaired, and no where near as bad as your project. I fixxed it, new quaters welded in, and it has not rusted in the last 11 years I owned it, which is longer than the 8 years it took to start to rust the first time. My car is an 89, so I have now owned it most of it's life. I don't drive it in the winter. A good way to force this is by removing the heater. I decided I wanted another CRX though so I just bought another rust free CRX from Cali for $2500. It was a long drive, but worth it. I also brought back a real Mugen front bumper for my KRX. It completes my kit on my KRX.
Honestly if you mess with Hondas, and live anywhere other than California, Arizona, or Japan, then you are screwed. Your gonna have a fun time getting the good stuff. I mean it is possible to get Mugen parts, and rust free CRXes, but it is just more work, and more of a pain. Your definitly at a disadvantage. It was 2500 miles of a pain for me, but it was a fun journey. I got to see my friends at Hasport, too. I bet if I got all the money and time back I have in shipping, and traveling for stuff. I could have completed my car twice.
If you are wondering, I got the rest of my kit from a guy in Chicago. Not sure how it got there???? It was much closer though only being 6hrs away from me. I bought the front bumper from Japan and had it imported to Cali. It came through customs a day before I picked it up, and bought my other crx. Such a freaking hassle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Way to give us your life story...
Redsolturbo,
Honda's were built to rust. My rex was way worse than yours... in fact I would dare to say that yours looks in fair condition compared to ones where I live.
Good on ya for getting it repaired... resorting to just buying another shell thats rust free would be a waste, especially since yours is completely salvageable.
I live in a rust climate in Ohio, and my KRX had a bit of rust, but it was repaired, and no where near as bad as your project. I fixxed it, new quaters welded in, and it has not rusted in the last 11 years I owned it, which is longer than the 8 years it took to start to rust the first time. My car is an 89, so I have now owned it most of it's life. I don't drive it in the winter. A good way to force this is by removing the heater. I decided I wanted another CRX though so I just bought another rust free CRX from Cali for $2500. It was a long drive, but worth it. I also brought back a real Mugen front bumper for my KRX. It completes my kit on my KRX.
Honestly if you mess with Hondas, and live anywhere other than California, Arizona, or Japan, then you are screwed. Your gonna have a fun time getting the good stuff. I mean it is possible to get Mugen parts, and rust free CRXes, but it is just more work, and more of a pain. Your definitly at a disadvantage. It was 2500 miles of a pain for me, but it was a fun journey. I got to see my friends at Hasport, too. I bet if I got all the money and time back I have in shipping, and traveling for stuff. I could have completed my car twice.
If you are wondering, I got the rest of my kit from a guy in Chicago. Not sure how it got there???? It was much closer though only being 6hrs away from me. I bought the front bumper from Japan and had it imported to Cali. It came through customs a day before I picked it up, and bought my other crx. Such a freaking hassle.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Way to give us your life story...
Redsolturbo,
Honda's were built to rust. My rex was way worse than yours... in fact I would dare to say that yours looks in fair condition compared to ones where I live.
Good on ya for getting it repaired... resorting to just buying another shell thats rust free would be a waste, especially since yours is completely salvageable.
dude you need to to do what the rodders do ,bend pinch and weld .....sorry but who ever thought we'd be in the same boat as the ol'rodders










ignore the red stuff, took and surface rust bits back to clean metal and treated it with my etching rust killer paint, then just zapped some high build just to keep it sealed.
still cannot believe how much filler is on the other side though, whats the best thing to remove it with? 40 grade flap wheel? stainless brush wheel?
stopped raining after 3 days. got some more done.





hell of alot more to do.
how rougth should the surface be for a high build primer?
800 grit wet and dry rough? 400? 180??





hell of alot more to do.
how rougth should the surface be for a high build primer?
800 grit wet and dry rough? 400? 180??









