Hi I Recently Bought A '93 Honda Prelude Orignaly A F22b Engine, Swapped To A H23, I Got It With A Seized H23, Now I Have Put A H22a2 Engine In It, The Car starts And Runs But I Have A Few Problems:
1. The Battery Light Stays On Constant.
2. While Driving The Car Doesnt Engage Vtec And Boggs Quite A Lot, Sometimes Loses Power And Dies And Wont Start For 5 Mins.
3. While Driving My Rev Counter Bounces Up Then Back Down When I Let Off The Accelerator Or Just Bounces When Driving Normal
4. The Car Is Running Really Rich

A Little More Info:
I Bought The Engine With Everything Included Engine, Manual Gearbox, Alternator & Intake Manifold. Everything Is Wired Up Correctly As Regards To The Vtec I Have Checked The Wires Are In The Harness For The Vtec Solenoid And Oil Pressure Switch So No Need To Wire In Vtec Like Some Swaps. I Have Checked For Codes And Im Getting Nothing So Im Confused. The Head Gasket Was Recently Done Which Made It Run Better Than Before. The Car Idles Fine. I Have A Twin Exit Power Flow Exhaust Which Is Decated I Dunno If This Is The Cause Of The Problem At All The O2 Sensor Is Still Fitted. I Have Wondered About The Vacuum Hoses As I Have Had Other Preludes Before And They Were Connected Up The Same As Mine Is Now But When I Look At Diagrams In The Manual And Around The Net They Are Totaly Different I Have Tried To Include As Much Info As Possible If You Need More Feel Free To Ask

Thanks For Any Advice Anyone Might Have

 

You have a bad battery connection somewhere. Put the old altenator on ther and recharge your battery.
Check all your grounds.

Your EGR sounds clogged.

Fix all that and then work on Vtec.

 

Which ecu are you running? Definitely check your battery and alternator connections/wires, and your alternator itself to make sure its charging the battery.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You have a bad battery connection somewhere. Put the old altenator on ther and recharge your battery.
Check all your grounds.

Your EGR sounds clogged.

Fix all that and then work on Vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I Followed The Prelude Manual For Testing The Alternator, Apparently It Charges the Battery Fine, But The Light Is Still On So Its Basicly The Voltage Regulator On The Alternator Is Away... So New Alternator

As For The EGR, I Have Seen Write Ups On How To Clean The Valve, Is that All Im Needing To Do Remove the Valve And Give It a Clean Or Do You Suggest Get A new 1 ?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93PreludeVTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Which ecu are you running? Definitely check your battery and alternator connections/wires, and your alternator itself to make sure its charging the battery.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im Running the P13 ECU (H22a2) Which Came With The Engine. As Above, I Checked The Alternator Cables, Im Gonna Get A New Alternator Tomorrow See What Happens. As For The Rev Counter Needle Jumping Around Any Idea What Could Be The Cause Of That ?

 

Update:

I Removed My EGR Valve And It Was Clogged So Badly The Valve Was Siezed, It Didnt Even Budge. I Had A Spare EGR Valve From My H23a Which I Have Fitted I s There Really A Difference ?
My Car Runs Much Better It Doesnt Bog Or Die At All And Has Better Responce When Pulling Away Or When I Press The Accelerator While Idling

Just Need To Fix the Vtec I Tried It Today, When The Car Hits About 4 1/2 rpm, It Will Hold Back, Then Go, Then Hold Back... Then It Sounds Like The Car Has Hit The Limiter And The Exhaust Burbles & Pops Like Its Misfiring But Not As Bad ... (Hard To Explain, Tryin To Describe It As Best A Possible)

Any Ideas ?

 

Your alternator went bad-&gt; voltage regulator is shot . It may cause all the problems.

 

Any check engine lights?

 

How exactly did you check your altenator to make sure its working properly? Did you test the battery as well. If you have a bad connection somewhere, it wont matter if the alt. is working as it should or shouldnt.

As for the bogging, it sounds like something is out of wack at 4.5 rpms. Mabey a video would help.

And checking your fuel pressure at 4.5rpms might help as well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2IntegraGS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Any check engine lights?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nope Im Not Getting Any Lights At All.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How exactly did you check your altenator to make sure its working properly? Did you test the battery as well. If you have a bad connection somewhere, it wont matter if the alt. is working as it should or shouldnt.

As for the bogging, it sounds like something is out of wack at 4.5 rpms. Mabey a video would help.

And checking your fuel pressure at 4.5rpms might help as well.</TD></TR></TABLE>

In The Manual It Says Use A Meter And Check The Cables For Voltage, Bad Connection Or A Bad Earth But The Cables Were Fine. I Have Tried 2 Batteries And They Both Hold A Charge And Has A Steady Voltage Of About 14.2 ish.

 

how did you check the alt?

You need to get the ammount of amps it puts out at 2k rpms.

ANy auto store should do that for you.

Also like If the chargining system is intact check your fuel system after that.

 

I Got A New Alternator Today Fitted It And The Battery Light Goes Out I Thought Cleanin The EGR Solved My Bogging Problem But I Was Wrong. The Car Refuses To Start Its Turns Over Fine But Just Wont Start Wen It Does It Sits At 0Rpm I Have To Hold The Gas Down To Keep The Car Runnin But It Doesnt Rev Up At All, It Runs Rough As Hell I Dunno If Its A Fuel Problem But I Got A Fuel Filter On The WayIll Check My Spark Plugs Tomorow See If Im Getting A Spark At All

 

Im Wondering If It Could Be To Do With The Timing At All ?

 

Sorry that this post isn't going to help you with your question, but I would like to ask you a question.

I have an F22 in my Lude now, and I am about to swap it out to an H23 that I am currently rebuilding. I have the ECU for the H23. Is there anything that you can tell me to watch for, as I see that you have done this swap. Do the F22 harnesses clip right into the H23 ECU? Are the engine mounts the same?? Does it go in as easily as I am thinking it will?

Thanks, and I hope that you get your question answered....sorry I couldn't help with it.

 

Ok I just read all of the posts, and that bogging at 4.5K rpm thing...My Prelude (F22) did something like that just before the rotor fell off. The screw backed itself out, and eventually fell off and broke inside the dist cap. After I replaced the cap/rotor, it fixed that bogging thing. Check your distributor cap & rotor. (Also, how old are your wires?)

 

it could be your distributor sounds like a miss fire or your v tec is not working check your timing as well balance your gears if the vetc does not work it will act crazy

 

Well I Get A Spark No Problem, Ok The Car Turns Over But Wont start It Sometimes Sounds Like Its About To Fire Up But Doesnt Like Does It Several Times, I Removed the Spark Plugs they Are Black And Covered In Petrol Like Its Over Fueling ?! Any Idea ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CraigTRD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry that this post isn't going to help you with your question, but I would like to ask you a question.

I have an F22 in my Lude now, and I am about to swap it out to an H23 that I am currently rebuilding. I have the ECU for the H23. Is there anything that you can tell me to watch for, as I see that you have done this swap. Do the F22 harnesses clip right into the H23 ECU? Are the engine mounts the same?? Does it go in as easily as I am thinking it will?

Thanks, and I hope that you get your question answered....sorry I couldn't help with it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry Id Love To Help But I Got The Car When The 2.3 Was Fitted But Siezed All I Done Was Take The 2.3 Out And Fit The 2.2

 

it sounds like your distributor is not firing right rotate it a few times change ur plugs an maybe get a new distributor check ur firing order if not u could need a new flyweel if teeth are missing

 

Have you checked your ignition timing yet?

Thats what it sounds like to me.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Acidcrakker &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you checked your ignition timing yet?

Thats what it sounds like to me.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks For All The Replies

I Have Got The Car Running Again, The Timing was Fine, I Got New Spark Plugs And The Car Fired Up But I Get Code 9 (CYP Sensor) So Im Guessin New Distributor ?

The Car Is Also Running Pretty Rich And When I Turn The Ignition Lights On The Speedo Jumps Up To 30mph And Stays There, When I Start The Car It Goes Down But The Rev Counters Jumps Up And Down At Idle. When I Rev the Car It Wont Rev Past About 4000rpm When I Hit 4000rpm The Car Will Stutter, Pop And Sound Like Its Misfiring


Modified by Jason-pri at 9:19 PM 5/31/2008