I am having trouble figuring out what is up with my car. It is a 91 civic dx hatch with a dohc ZC swap. The car sat for about 9 month over the winter with maybe a 1/4 tank of gas in it. Thinking i was smart i put about 3 gallons of gas in into it with alittle seafoam before i started it. Needless to say it smell liked *** while driving it. The car has temp tags and i need to get it inspected but i keep throwing codes. The car is my daily driver and drives fine about 3k although it still smells like *** even though the old gas has gone through. The car hesitates some below 3k

The first code was a 15 Ignition output signal. After searching on here most people say it is an igniter so i reset the ecu and ordered an igniter (not installed yet)

Code 15 came back after 30 minutes of driving. Reset

Next i threw Code 13 atmospheric pressure and Code 5 MAP. When at a stop the idle is a constant 2000rpm. After searching people said to test voltage across the map to see if the sensor is bad. Reset ecu

Threw code 15 again Still waiting on the igniter. Reset

Threw 15 a few more times. Reset

Threw 13 and 5 again while leaving work today. Same idle at stop of 2k. Reset

And finally while going to pick up the igniter today I threw a code 1 Oxygen content.

All of this has happened in the span of two days. This is my only car right now (just sold my h22 accord) so i am forced to drive it. Tomorrow is my first day off since this started happening and i am going to replace the igniter hopefully that work. I wanted to post to see if anyone had any other ideas. I guess its possible the map and the igniter are bad? A faulty igniter could cause the code one since fuel is not burning completely correct?

As i said aside from smelling like complete *** the car runs well except for the hesitation below 3k. It usually takes about 15-30 minutes of driving for the codes to come on. Except one time the 13 and 5 came right away after starting and so did the code 1.

I know it is retarded to drive the car while it is throwing codes but i have no choice.

Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. New to the civic and it is not treating me well so far!


Modified by Accord15 at 8:41 PM 6/2/2008

 

Update

I put the new igniter in today. No change still hesitates alot below 3k and smell like a bag of crap while running.

Before i even left the parking lot i threw a code 1 again.
Turned the car off it went away then 15 minutes of driving I got a code 15 again.

Each time i turn the car off the check engine light goes off and does not come back on for 15 minutes or so of driving. Ive thrown the code 15 three times today.

Please help! this car is kicking my ***

 

wow, you have a handful. so you aren't throwing 13, 5, 1 after replacing the igniter?

so you ran your old gas through? how's fuel pressure, and what do your spark plugs look like? sounds like a fuel delivery problem now. i would look at (in this order).

spark plugs, looking at these will tell you if your car is running lean, rich, poor etc.

if spark plugs look okay, go to 1, if not go to 2

1. cap and rotor, could be as simple as some corroded points.

2. fuel filter and injectors. if you've run some **** gas through your injectors you might have some flow problems. especially if it was running fine prior to sitting 9 months.

bottom line, make sure you're up on all regular maintenance such as spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (people overlook this, but they don't last forever), and make sure your car is in time and inspect all your vacuum lines.

 

I have not thrown 13, 5, or 1 again (yet!) it seems like the same things are going on though so im expecting to see them again at some point.

I will check the plugs as soon as I can. Im thinking the car is running rich but i am not positive. When i replaced the igniter i also changed the rotor because the old one was stuck on there. I will change the cap and wires as soon as i am able to get em. Hopefully the igniter doesnt look installed so i can return it!

The car use to be my brothers and it sat for about a year with a blown motor (zc) in storage he did nothing with it so i swapped a new zc in and ran into some money problems so it sat for another 9 months or so. So it ran like crap when i first put the motor in ran through that gas (but did not get any codes? could be due to it only being driven in a private parking lot) put new in and it sat so when i restarted it it ran like crap again (but with glorious codes this time!). I was first blaming it on the bad gas now i think it is timing or poor spark or some other obscure thing like a bad map.

I have until the 13th of june to get the thing inspected so i need to figure this out asap!

Thanks for the help ill update as soon as i am able.

 

what ECU do you have? how are you counting the blinks for the codes? OBD0 D-series ECUs only have short blinks, not long and short

 

pm7 I'm guessing this is obd0 I was counting it as if obd1.

So does that mean it is no code 15 just a 1 and a 5? and 1 and 3 for the 13. For the code i thought was 15 it would blink once pause blink 5 times pause blink once....etc. That makes much more sense to me. New to this swap i had the h22 accord for 7 or 8 years.

How are higher codes displayed such as a 41

Well put new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in same results (obviously after finding out i cant count codes!) Actually threw code 5 30 seconds after i started the car and the idle jumped to around 2k

Plugs are Black! I topped off my tank with about 1/3 left in it and am getting 19mpg Highway not very good at all. Im running really rich which i expected just from the smell.

Any suggestions what to do next? Test the map i guess? New o2 sensor?

Thanks for the help guys

 

running rich...could be running closed loop due to a bad o2 sensor. that would be my guess...you're lucky that your sensor is under 70 bucks....i had to buy one for my sti that set me back about 470.

are you running a sohc or dohc zc? your ecu is dohc zc...(just fyi if you didn't know)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by "jlicrx" &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">OBD0 D-series ECUs only have short blinks, not long and short</TD></TR></TABLE>
that is very inaccurate, he is counting codes correctly.

refer to this thread, it has some useful information..
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=9903

 

dohc. I'm guessing the O2 sensor should just match the ecu correct? so an 88 or 89 integra?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How are higher codes displayed such as a 41

Well put new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor in same results (obviously after finding out i cant count codes!) Actually threw code 5 30 seconds after i started the car and the idle jumped to around 2k

Plugs are Black! I topped off my tank with about 1/3 left in it and am getting 19mpg Highway not very good at all. Im running really rich which i expected just from the smell.

Any suggestions what to do next? Test the map i guess? New o2 sensor?

Thanks for the help guys</TD></TR></TABLE>first - change the O2 sensor - reset the ECU and see if you still have MAP codes - if so, chaeck MAP sensor - code 3 is for the electrical portion of the MAP - code 5 is for the vacuum portion of the MAP - make sure you don't have a vacuum leak somewhere - OBD0 D-series ECU codes don't go above 20

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dohc. I'm guessing the O2 sensor should just match the ecu correct? so an 88 or 89 integra?</TD></TR></TABLE>any one wire O2 sensor will work

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by antiJDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
that is very inaccurate, he is counting codes correctly.

refer to this thread, it has some useful information..
http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=9903</TD></TR></TABLE>commonly known as the blind leading the blind

 

So a code 20 would just be 20 blinks back to back. Im trying not be blind!

What service manual is that or what should i get for this engine? So i dont bother you guys with stuff i could find on my own. I saw on zcr that it is the same engine in a rover.

I'll get the O2 sensor tonight and try to put it in asap.

For the map sensor in the obd0 shouldn't it be on the throttle body I am almost positive mine is on the firewall.

Thanks very much for the help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So a code 20 would just be 20 blinks back to back.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

No, it is two long blinks.

 

even for obd0? jlicrx posted the code list and from that it looks like it only has short blinks no long.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">even for obd0? jlicrx posted the code list and from that it looks like it only has short blinks no long.</TD></TR></TABLE>code 20 is 20 blinks on OBD0 D-series ECU

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What service manual is that or what should i get for this engine? </TD></TR></TABLE>that is from USDM 91 CRX factory service manual

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For the map sensor in the obd0 shouldn't it be on the throttle body I am almost positive mine is on the firewall.
</TD></TR></TABLE>it is on the firewall - OBD1 is on the throttle body on some engines, but not all, i.e. 92-95 Civic DX is still on the firewall

 

cool thanks again for the info

 

ok one last quick question should i get an oe O2 sensor or can i get away with a universal?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Accord15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok one last quick question should i get an oe O2 sensor or can i get away with a universal? </TD></TR></TABLE>you can use the universal - just have to put connector on - OEM will plug right in

 

Update

So i changed the 02 sensor and the car was running the same as before.

On my way home engine light came on at a stop light checked it and it was a 1 again

Started the car before the light even turned green the engine light came on again and the idle shot up to 2k this time it was 5.

At each stop the idle was somewhere between 2-3K and at two stops the car bogged and almost died.

I am getting pretty sick of this car already! I guess now it is time to check the map and for vacuum leaks.

Could a faulty map sensor or vacuum leak cause the code one as well?

Do you have a diagram for testing the map? if not i will search and find one.

Again thanks for the help with out it i would probably be taking a hammer to this car

Edit: I forgot to mention the car seems to be missing worse than before particularly in 2nd gear. I step on the gas with only bogging for a short time then it decides to go. Originally i replaced the igniter thinking it was code 15 then took it out and returned it. Would this be a symptom of the code 1 and 5 or could this be do to a bad igniter?

 

bump. Going to check vacuum lines and hopefully try a new map after work.

 

Ok so i checked all the vacuum lines and they seem to be ok. I was going to test the map but forgot my volt meter and i couldnt remember what wires were suppose to have 5v.

I took some pictures with my phone to see if this vacuum set up is ok. I looked at the vacuum diagram jlicrx posted in another thread and he said to cap off the back two plugs i use one of the plugs as you can see from the picture. It is going from the plug on the back of the TB to the valve next to the map.






I am going tomorrow to a junkyard to get some parts and hopefully they have a map for cheap.

If it is not the map I will try to get a timing light tomorrow to see if timing is correct the more i think about it I don't think it is. At idle the car sounds very lopey like it has some crazy cams.

Ill post results tomorrow again thanks for the help

 

Ok i am dumbfounded I replaced the map exact same codes happens right away now within 30 seconds of starting the car i get a check engine light. Either my vacuum routing is wrong. There is something wrong with the map wiring or O2 wiring i guess. Or the ecu is shot?

Either way i am about to take a hammer to this car for real

Today is my birthday I locked my keys in my car spent an hour in the rain getting them out. Got a map from a local junkyard and didnt fix anything. And on top of it all im getting sick! Sorry just needed to vent.

I need some help from some experts please. What else can i do? I sit possible the ecu is bad?

 

Ok i just thought of something that might cause woes. If the IM or TB have dirt or debris in them couldn't that cause the codes. The lack of vacuum would cause the map not to work correctly causing the code one as well. I am going to try and find a vacuum pump gauges to see whats going on.

I read in another post that if you cover the TB with you hand and the car dies there is no vacuum leak. Doesnt make much sense to me but i did this and the car died. Does this mean anything?

 

Everyone in this beat town is sold out of vacuum gauges. Anyone got any suggestions?