Swapping b16a to b20b - got some questions, need help asap.
OK, got the b16 out, and putting the harness on the b20. Got everything hooked up except for 2 sensors.
1. I have a 2 "prong" plug next to the oil filter on the b16. But not plug in that location on the b20. I'm guessing it's a temp sender? Also, I have a 2 wire temp sensor on the thermostat housing of the b20. Do I just extend the 2 wires from the "2 prong" sensor, to the "plug" on the thermostat housing?.
2. At the end of the harness that goes to the side of the head I have 2 plugs, and wire cut wire that appears to be a shielded wire. The end is cut off, and I have no idea what it goes to as the isn't any more open plugs to attach it to.
Fast/any help would be greatly appreciated. Gotta have this thing up and running b4 monday.
Thanks!
Also, should I use the b16a crank pulley? With the b20 pulley my alternator belt is too short. Should I use the b16 pulley, or get a different belt?
Seems the alternator would be pretty underdriven with the b20 pulley, but them crank bolts are a pain especially with both motors pulled.
1. I have a 2 "prong" plug next to the oil filter on the b16. But not plug in that location on the b20. I'm guessing it's a temp sender? Also, I have a 2 wire temp sensor on the thermostat housing of the b20. Do I just extend the 2 wires from the "2 prong" sensor, to the "plug" on the thermostat housing?.
2. At the end of the harness that goes to the side of the head I have 2 plugs, and wire cut wire that appears to be a shielded wire. The end is cut off, and I have no idea what it goes to as the isn't any more open plugs to attach it to.
Fast/any help would be greatly appreciated. Gotta have this thing up and running b4 monday.
Thanks!
Also, should I use the b16a crank pulley? With the b20 pulley my alternator belt is too short. Should I use the b16 pulley, or get a different belt?
Seems the alternator would be pretty underdriven with the b20 pulley, but them crank bolts are a pain especially with both motors pulled.
Answer to question 1= yes
Answer to question 2= should be the o2 sensor wire. Is it white?
Yes use the b20 pulley and buy a new belt.its more than just a pulley its a harmonic balancer, very important!
Answer to question 2= should be the o2 sensor wire. Is it white?
Yes use the b20 pulley and buy a new belt.its more than just a pulley its a harmonic balancer, very important!
Got it. Swap is in and running. Got some codes tho.. 3, and 20... I thought b-series didn't use eld?
Yup and you are correct. It was the O2 sensor wire. I had just never used it as I had ran 2 new wires for the b16a.
No3w if I can just figure out why I'm throwing a code 3 and 20, I'm set.
Tried the old map sensor, no luck. And I have no idea why I'm geting a code 20. I guess if I'm reading the codes wrong it could be a code 23 for knock sensor, but even then I don't think a p75 ecu even looks for a knock sensor.
Thanks,
Yup and you are correct. It was the O2 sensor wire. I had just never used it as I had ran 2 new wires for the b16a.
No3w if I can just figure out why I'm throwing a code 3 and 20, I'm set.
Tried the old map sensor, no luck. And I have no idea why I'm geting a code 20. I guess if I'm reading the codes wrong it could be a code 23 for knock sensor, but even then I don't think a p75 ecu even looks for a knock sensor.
Thanks,
Make sure all your grounds are solid. Expecially the one on the thermostat housing.
Also check your battery cables and make sure the alternator wire is secure
I'm pretty sure the obd1 ls does use a ks.
If it is a ks code it will blink 23 times.
If it is a 3 and a 20, it will blink three times and pause, and then blink 20 times. The ecu trouble codes blink in sequence from smallest to highest number.
Also check your battery cables and make sure the alternator wire is secure
I'm pretty sure the obd1 ls does use a ks.
If it is a ks code it will blink 23 times.
If it is a 3 and a 20, it will blink three times and pause, and then blink 20 times. The ecu trouble codes blink in sequence from smallest to highest number.
Thanks for the replies, thevtecnician.
I got the ELD code fixed. Just had to reconnect that wire from the ecu back to the factory harness. On my obd0 pr3 ecu, that pin was for vtec solenoid. Soldered it back and code 20 is gone.
Still have the code 3 though, and I'm rather clueless as to why. I can pull the TB map sensor plug, and there's no change at all. I'm trying to figure out if it could have something to do with the map on the firewall, and a vacuum line not hooked up right, or the wiring to the map on the TB..
Time is running out gotta get this baby road worthy today!
Thanks
I got the ELD code fixed. Just had to reconnect that wire from the ecu back to the factory harness. On my obd0 pr3 ecu, that pin was for vtec solenoid. Soldered it back and code 20 is gone.
Still have the code 3 though, and I'm rather clueless as to why. I can pull the TB map sensor plug, and there's no change at all. I'm trying to figure out if it could have something to do with the map on the firewall, and a vacuum line not hooked up right, or the wiring to the map on the TB..
Time is running out gotta get this baby road worthy today!
Thanks
Just to clear this up-the obd1 map sensor doesn't use any vacuum lines. You just plug it in and you're good. Is that how its hooked up?
Modified by thevtecnician at 1:16 PM 5/25/2008
Modified by thevtecnician at 1:16 PM 5/25/2008
Yea it just plugs in at the throttle body. But, there's also the other sensor on the firewall that does have a vacuum line.
Anyhow I figured out what the problem was. Turns out it was just a bad connection in my jumper harness. Rather than messing with the harness I just ran a new wire to the map sensor ground(green wire) and I was in business.
Really happy with how it sounds and runs now. Just have a couple other small problems.
I'm not getting any codes but for some reason if I put it in 5th and cruise around town at low rpm (+/-2k rpm) the motor will lean out as if it's getting off throttle fuel cut. I have to downshift to third and rev it good before it will drive right. Again, no codes, so I don't now where to begin. I know it's going lean as my wideband pegs at 18-1.
Also, the idle is a bit odd. Will idle fine for a minute or so then out of the blue it will fall on it's face and stumble for about 5 seconds. I replaced the iacv with the one from the b16a and still the same thing.
I'm happy those are the only gremlins I ran into. I'm confident I'll make my 200 mile roadtrip no problemo tomorrow.
Overall, I'm very happy with the power. The thing just screams. Tons of low end power. I'm loving the LS 5th gear as well.
Time for a
Thanks
Anyhow I figured out what the problem was. Turns out it was just a bad connection in my jumper harness. Rather than messing with the harness I just ran a new wire to the map sensor ground(green wire) and I was in business.
Really happy with how it sounds and runs now. Just have a couple other small problems.
I'm not getting any codes but for some reason if I put it in 5th and cruise around town at low rpm (+/-2k rpm) the motor will lean out as if it's getting off throttle fuel cut. I have to downshift to third and rev it good before it will drive right. Again, no codes, so I don't now where to begin. I know it's going lean as my wideband pegs at 18-1.
Also, the idle is a bit odd. Will idle fine for a minute or so then out of the blue it will fall on it's face and stumble for about 5 seconds. I replaced the iacv with the one from the b16a and still the same thing.
I'm happy those are the only gremlins I ran into. I'm confident I'll make my 200 mile roadtrip no problemo tomorrow.
Overall, I'm very happy with the power. The thing just screams. Tons of low end power. I'm loving the LS 5th gear as well.
Time for a
Thanks
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You have a S1 tranny with a 5th gear on it? I've always to mate a b20 (maybe built non-vtec) with a short geared transmission.
I had a crx not too long ago with an ls and it had some minor bolt ons including a b16a tranny(don't know which one) but it ripped. Ever since then I prefer torque to peak hp.
As long as your obd0 firewall mounted map sensor isn't plugged in it's null and void, you can pull it out
I had a crx not too long ago with an ls and it had some minor bolt ons including a b16a tranny(don't know which one) but it ripped. Ever since then I prefer torque to peak hp.
As long as your obd0 firewall mounted map sensor isn't plugged in it's null and void, you can pull it out
Yea, I was able to source a LS 5th gear from a member of the forum here. Bought the main and countershaft 5th gear. Was a little tricky being I've never torn into a trans before, but got the new 5th gears to drop in and they work just great! The first 4 gears just rip! I'm actually loosing traction a bit in third as I reach max power, which is something my 16 would never do. Torque.
Definitely agree with you, I'm a big fan of low end power now.
Good info on the firewall mounted sensor. I had messed with it a bit, and nothing I did with wiring or vacuum lines never had any effect with anything.
Definitely agree with you, I'm a big fan of low end power now.Good info on the firewall mounted sensor. I had messed with it a bit, and nothing I did with wiring or vacuum lines never had any effect with anything.
PICS!




Sorry she's dirty as hell. Driving 600 miles a week I'm able to keep her clean for about 3 hours at a time..




Sorry she's dirty as hell. Driving 600 miles a week I'm able to keep her clean for about 3 hours at a time..
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