a different design for a topmount GT35R goodness inside
i've seen a few different designs for top mount manifolds and thought i'd try to come up with something on my own. i just need to add the external wg, but that isn't a big deal. i was trying to keep things compact by routing the runners under the collector rather than out to the side like some i have seen. it also leaves some good space for a dp.


















Pretty nice design man. Couple welds look gray....gas coverage or something because they are sitting up like they are a bit cold. That's a good lookin mani though.
actually bryson, all my welds are greyish. i don't know how you guys get the pretty colours, i only seem to get them on the pipe to flange joints.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually bryson, all my welds are greyish. i don't know how you guys get the pretty colours, i only seem to get them on the pipe to flange joints.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.</TD></TR></TABLE>
try only welding 1/2 - 3/4" at a time. and make sure your torch is aimed so you get gas coverage until that piece of weld has cooled. a gas lens would help also.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.</TD></TR></TABLE>
try only welding 1/2 - 3/4" at a time. and make sure your torch is aimed so you get gas coverage until that piece of weld has cooled. a gas lens would help also.
torch angle sounds like the culprit to me. Try walking or skidding the cup in a weave motion with about 3/16-1/4 stickout on your cap and see what happens. Just do some experimenting in your spare time. Which I know you dont have
turbosmart
manifold looks great.
i've been welding with 120 amp, 3/32 tungsten, 6 cup, gas lens, .045 309 rod lately and getting pretty good coloring.
the idea is to pulse the pedal. i'm pulsing from 120 to 10 amps, so i'm basically putting the arc out.
that and you only want to go about a 1/2". i've been able to pull off some longer beads, but with pipe, you have to change the angle so much, its kind of a pain in the ***.
that and leave your post flow at about 8 seconds and least. leave that torch over the weld until it shuts off.
manifold looks great.
i've been welding with 120 amp, 3/32 tungsten, 6 cup, gas lens, .045 309 rod lately and getting pretty good coloring.
the idea is to pulse the pedal. i'm pulsing from 120 to 10 amps, so i'm basically putting the arc out.
that and you only want to go about a 1/2". i've been able to pull off some longer beads, but with pipe, you have to change the angle so much, its kind of a pain in the ***.
that and leave your post flow at about 8 seconds and least. leave that torch over the weld until it shuts off.
i've got the post flow set to 5, i'll up it to 8. flow is around 18. rod is 1/16th 309l. #8 cup gas lense some of it with 1/16" tungsten for the hard to reach spots and an extended gl cup, some with 3/32" and regular cup. no pulsing, just straight weld. that is probably a big part of it i imagine.
thanks for all the feedback everyone, i will definitely be trying some of the suggestions made.
thanks for all the feedback everyone, i will definitely be trying some of the suggestions made.
You have to slow down and let that puddle cool down before you move. Whether you use the filler or your foot to get that effect, shouldn't matter. I think you are sitting there going.... Damn this is slow .. Damn this is slow .. and subsequently going too fast.
you should be able to weld it out in 1/4s. part of using a little more stickout and pushing it at a little more extreme angle with or without walking the cup is so that the tip of the tungsten and the back edge of the cup are further apart. So there is an overall greater length of weld measuring from leading edge of the puddle backwards that is receiving kickass gas coverage. Free handing pipe with a really upright torch angle has to be done sloooooooooooow and cold to get color because the gas has a tendency to break up, go all over the place and mix up with air.
So walking the cup allows for more amps to be used. You dont have to have as steady of hands and it's faster. It's win win win!
Real world example.
I'm welding gigantic silencer/catalyst assemblies for natural gas engines right now all out of 10-12g 304 stainless. I can rip 12in(1/4 of the diam) long outside corner welds at 170amps, 20cfh, 3/32 tungsten and filler with a #7 cup by sticking my tungsten out a little more, skidding my cup and rapidly weaving. Color is on the hot side but still dark blueish rainbowed and acceptable from the customers stand point.
kicker is you have to be on point with the angle of your filler so it doesnt ball up on you.
Kicker #2 you sacrifice some pen so if you are welding in one pass(which you shouldnt be
) don't bother.
ps 308 is the proper filler for 304 to 304. 309 for 304 to mild. 304 to higher grades use the higher grades recommended filler.
Disclaimer I tought myself how to weld so if someone went to school and has a better explaination feel free to add.
How is the DP for clearance? looks you could kick it back towards the block a bit if need be or is that just so you could go bigger on it without have to make a major design adjustment?
Looks like an excellent design as always.
Modified by ManBearPig4silly at 5:59 PM 5/25/2008
So walking the cup allows for more amps to be used. You dont have to have as steady of hands and it's faster. It's win win win!
Real world example.
I'm welding gigantic silencer/catalyst assemblies for natural gas engines right now all out of 10-12g 304 stainless. I can rip 12in(1/4 of the diam) long outside corner welds at 170amps, 20cfh, 3/32 tungsten and filler with a #7 cup by sticking my tungsten out a little more, skidding my cup and rapidly weaving. Color is on the hot side but still dark blueish rainbowed and acceptable from the customers stand point.
kicker is you have to be on point with the angle of your filler so it doesnt ball up on you.
Kicker #2 you sacrifice some pen so if you are welding in one pass(which you shouldnt be
) don't bother. ps 308 is the proper filler for 304 to 304. 309 for 304 to mild. 304 to higher grades use the higher grades recommended filler.
Disclaimer I tought myself how to weld so if someone went to school and has a better explaination feel free to add.
How is the DP for clearance? looks you could kick it back towards the block a bit if need be or is that just so you could go bigger on it without have to make a major design adjustment?
Looks like an excellent design as always.
Modified by ManBearPig4silly at 5:59 PM 5/25/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by weiRtech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually bryson, all my welds are greyish. i don't know how you guys get the pretty colours, i only seem to get them on the pipe to flange joints.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think your confusing him with someone else.
Mani looks good though. Not perfect, but neither is anything else out there. I'd be proud of it.
309L filler, 65-70 amps.
no, the runners are almost touching in that shot, but not sure what difference it would make.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think your confusing him with someone else.
Mani looks good though. Not perfect, but neither is anything else out there. I'd be proud of it.
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