Custom catch almost done! Baffling?
Alright so i'm posting this up for my brother, this is the first time he's ever made a vent/catch can (For the car we are building together). This will be for the two -12 lines out of the valve cover. Here are a few pictures of the catch can. The first couple is just it tacked up with the top being cadboard for fitment. and the rest are it welded without the top welded yet...
I'm trying to figure out what we should do for baffling. This WILL NOT recirculate to the oil pan and will be emptied. I got a couple ideas how I want to do it, but wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations that will work well. Thanks





I'm trying to figure out what we should do for baffling. This WILL NOT recirculate to the oil pan and will be emptied. I got a couple ideas how I want to do it, but wanted to see if anyone had any recommendations that will work well. Thanks





I just welded in some aluminum plates that divert the gasses down as soon as they get in the can, then into a cube that has steel wool. Helps separate the oil and then let the fumes vent out the top.
Ian
Ian
i run an open vent catch can, that drains, with no internal baffling and ive never had any oil problems on the dyno or street...
since you are going manual drain, add some baffling over the air exits and maybe one laterally to stop it sloshing
i would put the filters higher as well if you can as well
curious why you dont want to recirulate?
since you are going manual drain, add some baffling over the air exits and maybe one laterally to stop it sloshing
i would put the filters higher as well if you can as well
curious why you dont want to recirulate?
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Yea the aluminum is a little thicker than usually used, for some reason it's looks REALLY thick in the pictures but it's not bad at all in person.
And for the guy wondering about recirculation I didn't want to drain to the pan with steel wool in it and also only have two return slots on the moroso pan. One is for Turbo return, other is going to be oil temp. I would drain back if it was something that would see the street a lot more often, but it will mainly stay at the track, and we have a quick & easy solution to drain it.
And for the guy wondering about recirculation I didn't want to drain to the pan with steel wool in it and also only have two return slots on the moroso pan. One is for Turbo return, other is going to be oil temp. I would drain back if it was something that would see the street a lot more often, but it will mainly stay at the track, and we have a quick & easy solution to drain it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by snowseeker »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stainless steel wool.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Be careful with any sort of steel wool. If a small piece breaks off, you can risk having it sucked into your engine depending on how you plumb up your lines.
You can use chain link
Be careful with any sort of steel wool. If a small piece breaks off, you can risk having it sucked into your engine depending on how you plumb up your lines.
You can use chain link
I actually used stainless steel windoe screen... Same stuff I used for most turbo "filter"...lol Works well, fine enough to cling oil and won't break into pieces like steel wool.
the concept behind the baffling, other than deflection, is to add internal surface area thus allowing the oil vapor condense more readily. when i fab catch cans i usually use laps of preferated 0.040 alum. ive always been afraid to use steel wool
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