Results are in: 187 WHP / 133 TQ Graps, videos, and pictures are on page 3.


Alright, so finally started my LS/VTEC build over a month ago. I am currently assembling everything now and it should be in the car next week and tuned. I am hoping to hit 200whp.

The block was bored and honed .25 over and the head was decked, 3-angle valve job, and all new OEM Honda valve stem seals.

Here is the parts list:

B18a1 Block
OS P30 Pistons
LS Rods w/ ARP rod bolts
OEM Main, Rod, and Thrust bearings
OEM ITR Oil Pump
OEM ITR Water Pump
OEM ITR Timing Belt
ITR Crank Gear
ITR Crank Pulley
LS Head Gasket
01 ITR Head, Cams, Valvetrain
01 ITR Intake Manifold & Throttle Body
RC 310 Injectors
Hondata IM Gasket
Strup JDM ITR 4-1 Exhaust Manifold
Magnaflow 2.5" inch HighFlow Catalytic Converter
NGK Blue Spark Plug Wires
NGK Iridium ITR Spark Plugs
All New OEM Honda Seals, O-Rings, PCV Valve, etc.. Every little nut, bolt, o-ring, gasket, etc, all replaced.
Fidanza 8lb Flywheel
New OEM ITR clutch
Blox Cam Seal
New OEM ITR Head Studs

All my Rod and Main bearings were sized according to the block, crank and rods. Rod bearings were all .038mm or .0015inch; perfect for high revving engines (endyne and king motorsports use those specs too).

Assembly has so far gone smoothly. Everything torqued down to spec. Lots of Mobil1 5w-30 and Coastal Engine Assembly Lube used.

As for tuning, I have not decided yet. I am either going to use eCtune or Hondata S300. I cannot decide. I have heard a lot of good things about eCtune. It will be about $300 cheaper if I decide to go with eCtune rather than Hondata. Right now with the budget I am in, I will probably go with eCtune.

Now for the pictures:

























Modified by 92integraVTECgsr at 7:26 AM 5/27/2008


Modified by 92integraVTECgsr at 7:50 PM 6/18/2008

 

Do my eyes deceive me or is that plastic hose going from that super long Tee fitting in the block to the head?

1. I would use braided SS instead of plastic/rubber.

2. That Tee fitting is going to break eventually. I would look into a GE or similar sandwich plate.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do my eyes deceive me or is that plastic hose going from that super long Tee fitting in the block to the head?

1. I would use braided SS instead of plastic/rubber.

2. That Tee fitting is going to break eventually. I would look into a GE or similar sandwich plate. </TD></TR></TABLE>

1. It is not plastic hose. It is Gates 300psi industrial hose with their gator fittings that can withstand up to 300psi as well (my friend who has built 63 ls/vtec's has used it on everyone and hasn't had a problem. So I should be good there. (The guy working at the store said this hose will not come apart unless I am running 300+psi of oil through the line).

2. Ya I know. He suggested that because that is what he uses too. But after installing it and looking at it all evening, I just don't like it / fell confident in it. I've been looking at the GE Oil Adapter. I will probably just get that because like I said, I just don't feel comfortable using it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
1. It is not plastic hose. It is Gates 300psi industrial hose with their gator fittings that can withstand up to 300psi as well (my friend who has built 63 ls/vtec's has used it on everyone and hasn't had a problem. So I should be good there. (The guy working at the store said this hose will not come apart unless I am running 300+psi of oil through the line).
</TD></TR></TABLE>

63 LS/VTEC's

Good to hear its an appropriate hose. It sorta looks like some of that stuff you can get at Home Depot, that alot of guys use to vent their valve covers'.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

63 LS/VTEC's

Good to hear its an appropriate hose. It sorta looks like some of that stuff you can get at Home Depot, that alot of guys use to vent their valve covers'.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks lol.. Ya I trust his judgment when it comes to this stuff. He has helped me out a lot through this process, but the t-fitting is the only thing I don't like, and I know it will break off because just when installing it, I can feel it will break after time. I know one kid who snapped it of by accident when changing the oil.

Ya the hose is good stuff. No cheapo stuff from Home Depot here.

 

Keep up the good work and let us know the final out come.

I am working with a GSR with the same Goal, 200whp with all OEM Parts.
I would like to see where you end up to know if I will make it.
Currently I have 18whp to go.


Modified by OH_1fstgsr at 12:02 PM 5/22/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OH_1fstgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Keep up the good work and let us know the final out come.

I am working with a GSR with the same Goal, 200whp with all OEM Parts.
I would like to see where you end up to know if I will make it.
Currently I have 16whp to go.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you have done so far?

 

Just a few things.

Exhaust
DC Sports 4-1 2-1/4" Header
SMSP High Flow Cat
Comptech Cat-Back Exhaust

Intake
RC Engineering Ported GSR Throttle Body 70mm&gt;64mm
RC Engineering injectors w/clips 370cc
DPR Ported GSR Intake Manifold
AEM GSR Cold Air Intake

Block
USDM ITR Pistons (81.25)
USDM ITR Rods

Head
DPR Stage 5 Port ‘n’ Polish
Rocker Arm Balance and Lightening
ITR Valves, ITR Springs, ITR Retainers, ITR LMA’s
CTR Intake Cam Shaft
ITR Exhaust Cam Shaft
(Compression Ratio 11.5:1)

ECU
Skunk2 OBD2a&gt;OBD1 Harness with IAB control
P72 OBD1 ECU
Hondata S300

Misc.
Unorthodox Light Weight Pulleys, AC and PS ONLY
Samco Radiator Hoses, Black
Hyper Voltage System, Grounding Wires
NGK Power Cables, Plug Wires

 

63 ls\vtecs.......................... believable but funny!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mec. pedri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">63 ls\vtecs.......................... believable but funny!</TD></TR></TABLE>

He owns a Honda/Acura shop. He used to build a lot of cars, but now he just prefers to do tune ups and work on high dollar cars like the 08 Saleen H302 SC. He stop building after kids stopped paying and wasting him time with too much bs.

 

Ectune here&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;ftw iam currently running.. Ectune on my boosted sohc setup.. Runs greattt.... let me kno how ya like it....

 

nice build man. Im just about done with mine, going in the car tomorrow hopefully, im just getting mine tuned with crome, i'll see how much im gonna put down. My setup its like urs except i have b16 stock head with skunk 2 IM, and stock TB bored out to match the IM. Im low on funds so i think im sticking with the stock exhaust manifold for now

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by XkjeldorX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nice build man. Im just about done with mine, going in the car tomorrow hopefully, im just getting mine tuned with crome, i'll see how much im gonna put down. My setup its like urs except i have b16 stock head with skunk 2 IM, and stock TB bored out to match the IM. Im low on funds so i think im sticking with the stock exhaust manifold for now </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds good. Let me know how it turns out.

 

ditch the DC header

 

I have the DC header as well, and it is costing me about 10HP vs. the Toda. You should be able to acheive 200WHP using Honda Prelude SH injectors- to keep with the all OEM parts. You could also do a single layer head gasket to get a little more compression. I have heard mixed reviews of the Hondata IM gasket. The guys at Hondaworks said that since it was so soft, they had to switch to header nutsto hold the IM on to keep them from working loose. Also, it does not prevent the IM from getting heat soaked, it just slows it down some. There is still heat transfer through the studs, and ambient hot air. You can also switch to an s2000 TB, and port match your IM. Don't forget cam gears. One other thing that doesn't make sense, the GSR IM. If you have a '01 ITR head, the GSR IM won't bolt up. You'll have better luck with an ITR IM. or better yet, a S2 Pro IM. Good luck with your build, I can't wait to see some dyno results!

 

in for results...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LSVTEC96HB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the DC header as well, and it is costing me about 10HP vs. the Toda . You should be able to acheive 200WHP using Honda Prelude SH injectors - to keep with the all OEM parts. You could also do a single layer head gasket to get a little more compression. I have heard mixed reviews of the Hondata IM gasket. The guys at Hondaworks said that since it was so soft, they had to switch to header nutsto hold the IM on to keep them from working loose. Also, it does not prevent the IM from getting heat soaked, it just slows it down some. There is still heat transfer through the studs, and ambient hot air. You can also switch to an s2000 TB, and port match your IM. Don't forget cam gears. One other thing that doesn't make sense, the GSR IM. If you have a '01 ITR head, the GSR IM won't bolt up. You'll have better luck with an ITR IM. or better yet, a S2 Pro IM. Good luck with your build, I can't wait to see some dyno results!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Have you read anything? Do you know anything?

DC Header vs Toda Header 10+hp? ya you are probably right, but there is also a $700 difference.

Did you not read I already bought brand new RC 310 Injectors? They are bigger than Prelude Injectors (290cc) so they will work better for me.

Compression? Why would I want more compression? I'm already around 11.5-12.0:1 which is perfect for 01 ITR cams.

I've used 3 Hondata IM Gaskets and have all worked great. No problems here and they do keep the IM a little cooler.

GSR Intake Manifold? where on earth did you get that? Why would I use a GSR IM on a ITR head when I have an ITR IM. Nowhere in my thread did I say I was using a GSR IM.

Please if you are going to post, read the thread and post something new, not just for the sake of building up your post count.

 

the only thing that might keep you from 200 imho is the itr cams, but its possible. you could also always have the itr manifold reworked to gain a decent amount if you want to keep with the stock mentality.

i think youll get it tho. mine on standard bore/gsr head/itb's/anr header/pro1's just made 196 on a dynapack.

the itr cams just may not be very powerful down low.

 

This is a nice build up.

The gator hose.
The fitting.

KP21 has it right. To hit 200, you will need a more aggressive set of cams.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by killerpenguin21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the only thing that might keep you from 200 imho is the itr cams, but its possible. you could also always have the itr manifold reworked to gain a decent amount if you want to keep with the stock mentality.

i think youll get it tho. mine on standard bore/gsr head/itb's/anr header/pro1's just made 196 on a dynapack.

the itr cams just may not be very powerful down low.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well I got a friend with the same build except he is using a Comptech 4-2-1 Header and AEBS IM and tuned with Hondata S100 and he hit 198whp.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is a nice build up.

The gator hose.
The fitting.

KP21 has it right. To hit 200, you will need a more aggressive set of cams.</TD></TR></TABLE>

The gator hose and fitting go together. The fitting and the hose alone can hold up to 300psi.

Well I will try. I hope it hits 200whp. I would get a SKUNK2 Pro Series IM if I had some more money. The main reason for the OEM build is reliability.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The gator hose and fitting go together. The fitting and the hose alone can hold up to 300psi. </TD></TR></TABLE>

No doubt it can hold the pressure, I wonder if it will break because of forced vibrations.

The manifold you have is good. Honesty, at the power your shooting for OEM or aftermarket, you will be outside of the design range of most parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

No doubt it can hold the pressure, I wonder if it will break because of forced vibrations.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would it break? I don't think those things were designed to break. It's the same fittings used by golden eagle. Also there is no vibration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why would it break? I don't think those things were designed to break. It's the same fittings used by golden eagle. Also there is no vibration. </TD></TR></TABLE>

really? cuz GE doesnt use any fittings....its a sandwich plate.

id also like to see what dyno a motor with r cams made 198 on. what did a stock gsr make on that dyno? (give us some idea of how high it reads)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

why would it break? I don't think those things were designed to break. It's the same fittings used by golden eagle. Also there is no vibration. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The fitting is not the problem. Your oil feed is cantilevered off the block supporting the oil line and the fitting. When the motor spins, it will cause that feed to vibrate and eventually break. That is what I and CC are talking about.

 

sorry to go off topic, but i read above that someone was using USDM ITR pistons with an 81.25mm bore? are these p30 pistons? i'm building an LS-VTEC on a b18b1 and i'm trying to figure out what CR i should run on my b16 head using 91 octane.

would you guys recommend p30's? what sort of CR would i be looking at?