Howdy,

Well I looked up a tutorial here on idle issues for my B16a, I was having surging on idle.

"If your idle is stable but either too high or low then you need to adjust it with the idle screw, but don't just turn the screw blindly! The correct way to do it is by letting your car warm up then, while the engine is running, disconnect the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) electrical plug behind the intake manifold, and adjust the idle screw to 800rpm. After doing that turn your car off, reconnect the IACV plug, then disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ECU because you will have a CEL, doing this will get rid of that CEL. Connect the battery and your Idle should be at its normal range - 800 +/- 50 rpm"

That was from the article I read here, and I followed the procedures, but I was only able to get to 500rpm without the IACV plugged (Electrical plugin). So I turned off car, plugged back in the IACV plugin, and took off the neg battery wire. Once I hooked up the battery no codes. The strange part about it, is that its idling around 1k-1.1k rpms. But it doesn fluctuate no more.

I do not want to conclude it yet, because I haven't driven it around and parked back, is usually when it starts to surge again, less likely to when just started up.

Anyways, I had a compression test done and all cylinders good, but when I did a power balance and cylinder leak down test, the cylinders were not contributing too well. We also tested by letting the engine run and pull out each spark plug wire and putting it back in one by one, if it dies its not good. I got it on 2nd cylinder. Although the 1st just stuttered which is normal you know.

So I definately know its the valve train if anything, but I'm pondering if the idle issue (Air coming in) would take care of the issue, I'mma see myself in a sec.

Also about the Camber issue, I was having inner tire wear on my front tires, and a knowledgable guy known as Tyson here (has helped me with alot of things) was telling me it was just the toe. So I swapped the rears with the fronts as the rears had more tread

Well I hate to say it bro, I'm being honest as I can, I have no reason to lie. 0 Toe and 0 thrust angle. Caster still in green but Camber RED.

My tires have inner wear once again, on top of that, with common sense, if you stand a little distance from the car, you can see the bottom of my front tires sticking outwards from the car. While my rears are pretty straight.

I mean theres no option left, my steering is good (As in inner, outer tie rods replaced), CV axels replaced, Struts, rack end bushing, no shaking, no messed up frame, nothing.

All thats left is a simple camber kit. I'd thought I'd let you know, but cannot be too sure yet of course, but I'm pretty sure thats the case as its only the front tires that are effected as well as the visibility of the angle of tires, its just common sense to me now.

 

Damn, well thats a negative on the idle issue taking care of the cylinder failure problem. Valve train for sure