Just got my Apexi N1 suspension (99 spec) installed over the weekend. 11K front and 5K rear spring.

I've read quite a few articles on how to tune the suspension (still learning). Just wondering what would be a good starting point for riding-height? different articles have different opinion but never specifically talked about what setup for coilovers.

bottomline is, I really want to get the max. performance gain of the suspenion on a road course and I've always heard too lower would actually harm the performance.

thanks,
CS

 

Wow, 11k front and 5k rear seems like a huge difference to me. I don't remember seeing such a wide gap in rates from front to rear on other set-ups...

 

Suspension height and spring rate is chosen depending on the track conditions and the vehicle specifications (such as weight). This is for a car that will be used for track activities or a specific track. If you street your car or daily drive it, it's another story.

 

I know, the spring rate is quite unusal but it's a set of used coilover. I will just try and see how it feels for now, and maybe change the springs later on.

what would be a good height setup for street use and track use?

My R is my daily driver, but if I can figure what is a good height for track use, I will change it before I go on the track (I go on the track about 2 times a month this year)

TIA,
CS

 

You don't want to change the ride height too much when you get to the track. The alignment settings will be way off. It's best to use coilovers to get the ride height set once. I have no idea what kind of ride height to use with rates like those or alignment settings, but I've found that the best way to do it (even though I haven't done it yet) is to: a) set ride height b) do a rough home alignment c) test at the track and change as necessary d) roughly refine alignment settings at the track e) corner weight d) refine alignment settings with a 4 wheel alignment on a good rack e) repeat as necessary

Not something that you'll want to do more than once a year. So the best thing to do would be to start off with a proven setup (like spring rates) and try and only have to go through once. If it were me I would keep the 10k fronts and go to 14k rears like my current setup, but that's just me and some people would argue...

 

B18C5: How much did you lower your car by? (btw, is that a street or track only car?) 10 front and back 14? is that a really rough ride for street use?

CS

 

I tried to lower my car 3/4 of an inch. I think it sunk a little since I set it. Oops. heh. It's a street/track driven car, but I'm driving it less and less the more suspension work I do to it. 10/14 is definitely rough for street use, which is why I switch back to the stock suspension for the winter. Going to something like 8/10 is still pretty stiff, but it's a fair bit more tolerable. Of course tolerable is a relative term, so you really have to try some out yourself. Also what seems tolerable for a week can get really tiresome after a month.

You might be able to find a nice comprimise by going to lower rate rear springs with a stiffer (adjustable?) rear anti-roll bar. From what I've heard you can get an adjustable ground control rear bar for about the same price as a Mugen 26mm. Maybe something in the range of 8k/8k with a big rear bar. I haven't started upgrading my rear bar yet, so I don't know what would be a nice setup with that.

 

Just came back from Putnam Park where I ran a new set of BuddyClub coil-overs. I only lowered the car a 1/2 inch in the front and close to 3/4 of an inch in the rear. The BC's allow you to lower the car without affecting the spring perch's position which would adversley affect the shock travel. These units came with 12k front and 8k rear springs. I ordered a set of 14k's but they haven't arrived yet. So I ran my R with the 8k's in the front and 12's in the rear. The car was very neutral with the stock rear bar. Looking forward to trying the 14's in the rear with the 12's up front... also considering the Mugen 24 or 26mm rear bar.

CS, your 11k/5k set-up might push pretty significantly. Seems like a weird set-up...? Reversing your springs might be a bit wicked as well. I believe the Apexi units will accept any 7" long 2.5 OD spring (not completely sure though). Eibach ERS springs come in several different rates and lengths. JDM Swift springs are also available from several shops in a wide range of rates. Hope this helps...

 

TypeR47: When you said 1/2 front and 3/4 back, are you talking about the wheel gap (front tire to the fender).

I will try with 5K for the back at the moment, since it's only 5K, if I compress the rear spring with the coilover, would that give me more force on the back? what would be the potential problem of compressing the spring instead of getting a stiffer spring?

thanks,
CS

 

isn't 5k less than stock?

-Dave, who doesn't feel like converting the # right now

 

it's not less, but barely over stock (4.4)

yshi - whose still debating what to do about sus

 

man, that would suck. (barely stiffer than stock)

-Dave, who would never run 11kf/5kr.. and yoshi knows what suspension I'll tell jim t00 get. juju

 

jeah, I know what j00'd recornmend and I almost got it t00 till it got sold to some other d00d.

 

CS,
Yes, I measured the gap between a marked spot of the fender lip and the top of the wheel *(with the suspension settled).

I wouldn't run the 5k's... Dave-ROR is right. That's barely over stock... something like 279lbs...if my shotty math is right?? Anyone?

To be honest, I'd run the car at the track bone-stock for a while (until you can scare up some better springs). The R is an amazing car in stock form. Plus you'll learn a lot more IMO.

Hold on to the 11k springs. You could always run 8k's up front later. The ride on the street won't be great , but not terrible either.