I have a set of Buddy Club spec 3+ cams sitting around and I am planning to boost my b18c1 in the future.

My goals are a 450 whp, sleeved etc gt30r etc.

However for the time being i would like to run the cams for fun. I searched and didn't really find much info on the Spec 3+ being okay for boost.

So the question is stick with the gsr cams ? Or run the spec 3+ and then boost on the spec 3+ ??

Thanks any info would be nice.
I don't believe the cams are that crazy so they should be okay.

opinions
plz don't just say CTR ftw or somthing like that

thanks

 

bump

 

bump cause i am in the same spot right now

 

Those cams were obviously made for an n/a setup, having a longer overlap on the profile. But the 3+ is their entry level cam, just like a s2s1, which should still help your overall gains.

Absolutely throw them in now, and switch them out later for a true boosted cam later on if your power goals need to be met.

 

^ correct i have heard tuners say they work great with boost check evans tuning site there was a few people running them i think

 

do you have specs on the cams

 

i have them in my built b16 and vtec was set at 6100 on the street, getting tuned within the next week so i will let you know how they work out, it all depends on what turbo manifold your running also... i have a cast which i think is hurting my power a little bit, but anyways i will have dyno numbers with these cam mid next week

 

overlap or not, teh cams will make more power. NA cams usually make peak power near redline, same spots our turbos make most power, coincidence?

i have never been impressed with any "turbo cam" yet. i prefer NA cams and spend a couple hours degreeing them for power.

i run a set of skunk2 2s in my car, love em.

 

how did you set camgears on skunk2 stage2??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bzyq2001 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you set camgears on skunk2 stage2??</TD></TR></TABLE>

with an allen wrench, hahah


i satthere and spent about 4 hours, move the gear set the timing back(for the intake) make a pull, watch hp and tq, record readings, make changes


my best pwer was at +2 and -1, wow very similar to my all motor set up 10 years ago

 

TIMING

INLET
25° BTDC
45° ABDC

EXHAUST
45° BBDC
20° ATDC


DURATION

INLET
296°

EXHAUST
290°

VALVE LIFT

INLET
11.4mm

EXHAUST
11.8MM

VALVE CLEARANCE

INLET
.008

EXHAUST
.009

 

I'm probably gonna throw the cams in soon.


I know these aren't much more aggresive than type r cams which run great with boost

Anyone have any more info or first hand expierience?

thanks for the replies

 

excited to see the results

 

bump

 

well my experience with the cams is...... their not good for boost on a mildly built engine, i have a b16 with built head and 81.5mm pistons/eagle rods and vtec would not want to be set at anything under 8,000 rpm's.... granted i did not have cam gears to adjust them out a little bit and i am running a cast manifold, but i cant imagine them being all that great unless you have a 2.0l and revving to 10,000

im verifying that they are indeed buddy club 3+ right now, but they have T on the ends and i bought them they came in the original buddy club boxes, also when i had these cams on my built n/a motor they liked vtec around 6,000 rpms

 

i didn't think the spec 3+ revved that high?? thats strange i thought they are similiar to the ctr cams almost they don't produce to much top end and are a mid range cam.

My boost build is going to be sleeved but do you think it would just be better to run the gsr cams?

thanks

Don't know what to do hehe

 

what did the cars dyno look like??

 

basically i put down 220whp at 7200 rpm (7.8psi), vtec would engage and i would drop 40hp instantaneously.....

id recommend gsr cams or even itr/ctr cams, i personally switched to gsr cams.... just to confirm the 3+ have a T on the end of each cam correct?


Modified by EARLdaSQUIRREL at 9:42 PM 5/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EARLdaSQUIRREL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">basically i put down 220whp at 7200 rpm (7.8psi), vtec would engage and i would drop 40hp instantaneously.....

id recommend gsr cams or even itr/ctr cams, i personally switched to gsr cams....</TD></TR></TABLE>

So you are running bc3 cams with stock cam gears? Why not spend the extra money to get some adjustable gears and dial in the cams correctly?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kevin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

So you are running bc3 cams with stock cam gears? Why not spend the extra money to get some adjustable gears and dial in the cams correctly?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i realize that cam gears would have helped, but with how large the primary lobe is on the 3+ cams and how high we were with vtec i just dont see it making the cams much if any better for a daily driver/weekend warrior

 

i have a set of adjustable cam gears already how much of a difference would it make on a boosted set up?

any more input

 

Being able to dial out as much overlap as possible is very beneficial so cam gears are more than worth the money.

 

buddy club 3+ on the left and gsr on the right.....
the primaries are about the size of the vtec lobe which make these have a very high vtec, great for all motor for midrange but unless you want to rev to 10k on a turbo motor id suggest staying away from them on a sub 400whp car thats less than 2.0l

 

holy crap thats a big primary, is it just me or from those pics the BC casting looks crappy compared to the GSR...

 

there bad for turbo. Turbo cams are shaped more like an egg they have more deration rather then overlap spec 3 = bad