URGENT help needed:Suspension Help 00 EX (subframe bolts) Pics
I'm crossposting this from the Suspension forum because I'm in desperate need of help here.
I got the fronts off nearly effortlessly. But the rears are really kicking my ***.
I got both bolts off the strut assembly but the other bolts (I believe in the subframe) just will not come off. I got the nut off one side and tried to hammer the bolt out from the other, but it doesn't budge. I also tried to ratchet it out from the nutside but it feels like it's in rubber or something. Basically it feels like it's twisting, as opposed to actually reversing. And it only turns about 1/10 of a turn before it really tightens up. I really don't want to strip it. Oh and I did strip the driver side. Fantastic.
Hopefully between my rough description and the pics someone can throw me a bone here. Thanks.





I got the fronts off nearly effortlessly. But the rears are really kicking my ***.
I got both bolts off the strut assembly but the other bolts (I believe in the subframe) just will not come off. I got the nut off one side and tried to hammer the bolt out from the other, but it doesn't budge. I also tried to ratchet it out from the nutside but it feels like it's in rubber or something. Basically it feels like it's twisting, as opposed to actually reversing. And it only turns about 1/10 of a turn before it really tightens up. I really don't want to strip it. Oh and I did strip the driver side. Fantastic.
Hopefully between my rough description and the pics someone can throw me a bone here. Thanks.





have u tried to jack up on the LCA to give it a lil support, while driving something into the bolt through the open end, an tryin to knockin it out..??? i had this same problem, but thats how i fixed it... just put some support on the bottom an it eased the tension on the bolt, came almost right out, after 5 hours of whaling on it with a hammer an screwdriver lol.... GL...
Yeah check out the last pic. I have a bottle jack under there supporting the LCA.
Maybe I'll try to raise it a little higher still.
Thank you for the quick reply.
Maybe I'll try to raise it a little higher still.
Thank you for the quick reply.
ek's are notorious for this....
here's the only thing that worked on my car when those bolts seized up. just make sure you get the quality metal blades. the cheapo ace-hardware ones basically do nothing and you're only throwing your money away...it's a slow process but you will probably use like one blade per every cut you make in the bushing.
you'll have to get new lca's or new bushings for your stock lca's. im assuming you're swapping your lca's out?
here's the only thing that worked on my car when those bolts seized up. just make sure you get the quality metal blades. the cheapo ace-hardware ones basically do nothing and you're only throwing your money away...it's a slow process but you will probably use like one blade per every cut you make in the bushing.
you'll have to get new lca's or new bushings for your stock lca's. im assuming you're swapping your lca's out?
So you're saying to just forget about removing the bolts and chop them?
What about the nut on the front side of the LCAs that appear to be welded on?
Do I chop from there?
In that case, would I then need some sort of nut, bolt, washer assembly?
I'm just trying to get the damn aftermarket suspension off!!
What about the nut on the front side of the LCAs that appear to be welded on?
Do I chop from there?
In that case, would I then need some sort of nut, bolt, washer assembly?
I'm just trying to get the damn aftermarket suspension off!!
i sawed off the welded nut as well...just take a chisel and hammer....and chip one end of it up a little bit so you can slide your saw blade in there....the nut is spot welded in three spots and shouldn't take too much effort.
you will have to buy new bolts (please use OEM honda they're grade 10 bolts, $5-8/each but your whole car and your life is riding on those bolts)
make sure to use anti-seize grease on the bolts.
you will have to use a nut on the other side of the bolt...
when the car is on jackstands and you get all the bolts in....make sure you jack up the control arm all the way up before tightening the bolts down all the way..this will keep the bushings from twisting...
hope that makes sense..
you will have to buy new bolts (please use OEM honda they're grade 10 bolts, $5-8/each but your whole car and your life is riding on those bolts)
make sure to use anti-seize grease on the bolts.
you will have to use a nut on the other side of the bolt...
when the car is on jackstands and you get all the bolts in....make sure you jack up the control arm all the way up before tightening the bolts down all the way..this will keep the bushings from twisting...
hope that makes sense..
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no problem man, good luck with that P.I.T.A.
just remember though, it went in easily when it was first installed, so the deinstallation although sometimes seems impossible, is always acheivable... GL dude..
just remember though, it went in easily when it was first installed, so the deinstallation although sometimes seems impossible, is always acheivable... GL dude..
Thanks a ton, man!!!
And I will be sure to use OEM bolts. What about the nuts? Washers? And what were you saying earlier about bushings? Do I need to replace them as well?
Thanks for all the replies.
As for the PB Blaster, I don't work underneath a car without it! It's been soaking since 9AM so I'm thinking it let me down on this last two bolts.
I will say that everything else came off without an issue though.
Let me get my sawzall out!
And I will be sure to use OEM bolts. What about the nuts? Washers? And what were you saying earlier about bushings? Do I need to replace them as well?
Thanks for all the replies.
As for the PB Blaster, I don't work underneath a car without it! It's been soaking since 9AM so I'm thinking it let me down on this last two bolts.
I will say that everything else came off without an issue though.
Let me get my sawzall out!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IemShamus »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks a ton, man!!!
And I will be sure to use OEM bolts. What about the nuts? Washers? And what were you saying earlier about bushings? Do I need to replace them as well?
Thanks for all the replies.
As for the PB Blaster, I don't work underneath a car without it! It's been soaking since 9AM so I'm thinking it let me down on this last two bolts.
I will say that everything else came off without an issue though.
Let me get my sawzall out!</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha right on... ill give ya a free BUMP cuz you actually knew how to spell Sawz-All lmao... sometimes u c dudes on here like "yeah man i busted out my sozzel an tried to cut......... or yeah man my damn sawzol wont work either........." funny ****... GL bro..
And I will be sure to use OEM bolts. What about the nuts? Washers? And what were you saying earlier about bushings? Do I need to replace them as well?
Thanks for all the replies.
As for the PB Blaster, I don't work underneath a car without it! It's been soaking since 9AM so I'm thinking it let me down on this last two bolts.
I will say that everything else came off without an issue though.
Let me get my sawzall out!</TD></TR></TABLE>
haha right on... ill give ya a free BUMP cuz you actually knew how to spell Sawz-All lmao... sometimes u c dudes on here like "yeah man i busted out my sozzel an tried to cut......... or yeah man my damn sawzol wont work either........." funny ****... GL bro..
LOL! Thanks for the bump.
One last question...I ended up seeing what you meant by cutting the bushings. You know those damn bolts STILL won't come out. Not that it matters anymore.
Now I need to know how to get the bushings assembly out...and was also wondering if you knew the actual parts I now need to replace.
I promise this will be the last question but my fingers may or may not be crossed
One last question...I ended up seeing what you meant by cutting the bushings. You know those damn bolts STILL won't come out. Not that it matters anymore.
Now I need to know how to get the bushings assembly out...and was also wondering if you knew the actual parts I now need to replace.
I promise this will be the last question but my fingers may or may not be crossed
You just gotta be creative with **** like this...the saw is your friend though!
You can go through the trouble of pressing out the lca bushings or you can buy aftermarket control arms. i got blox control arms for like 80 shipped. might be cheaper to go to your auto-parts store and get the bushings cuz honda will rip you a new one and it might be cheaper just to get the after market stuff. check the sponsor section. check ebay.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
just be patient with the saw and whatever else you end up having to use....you'll get them out. just go slow not to damage anything else in the process or it will end up costing a lot of $$$
You can go through the trouble of pressing out the lca bushings or you can buy aftermarket control arms. i got blox control arms for like 80 shipped. might be cheaper to go to your auto-parts store and get the bushings cuz honda will rip you a new one and it might be cheaper just to get the after market stuff. check the sponsor section. check ebay.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com
just be patient with the saw and whatever else you end up having to use....you'll get them out. just go slow not to damage anything else in the process or it will end up costing a lot of $$$
Right on...I got creative with a grinder.
Had the struts out about 15 minutes after I read on here that I can go that route.
Now for the replacement parts..
I can get the correct bushings at any old auto parts store?
I'm trying to get this car completely back to stock. So aftermarket isn't really an option right now. I mean unless it will save me a ton. But I'm thinking as long as I can get the old bushings out/new ones in I should be good as far as the LCAs go.
Can anyone elaborate on the bushing removal/installation process? Do I have to take the arms off the car in order to get this goin?
Had the struts out about 15 minutes after I read on here that I can go that route.
Now for the replacement parts..
I can get the correct bushings at any old auto parts store?
I'm trying to get this car completely back to stock. So aftermarket isn't really an option right now. I mean unless it will save me a ton. But I'm thinking as long as I can get the old bushings out/new ones in I should be good as far as the LCAs go.
Can anyone elaborate on the bushing removal/installation process? Do I have to take the arms off the car in order to get this goin?
you will have to take the control arms to a shop that can press the old bushings out and put the new ones in. depending on how many bushings you cut (i cut 4 x $36/ea for bushing = $144 + shipping etc etc) **** can get expensive quick. most you'll pay for lca's is 100 shipped. just look around for best price, like i said i got mine for 80.
aftermarket lcas don't really do anything for performance, it's basically just for bling. i ended up getting some powder coated black ones so they didn't stand out too much. they are a fairly lighter than stock ones and they have harder bushings in there but you should still use anti-seize lube.
depending on how cheap you get the bushings, aftermarket lca's still might be your best bet because you don't have to hunt down a press to press the old bushings out and then press the new ones in correctly. just take em outta the box, pop the new bolts in and you're good to go....
aftermarket lcas don't really do anything for performance, it's basically just for bling. i ended up getting some powder coated black ones so they didn't stand out too much. they are a fairly lighter than stock ones and they have harder bushings in there but you should still use anti-seize lube.
depending on how cheap you get the bushings, aftermarket lca's still might be your best bet because you don't have to hunt down a press to press the old bushings out and then press the new ones in correctly. just take em outta the box, pop the new bolts in and you're good to go....
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