Okay so i finally got a chance to test out my car at the dragstrip today. To my disappointment, the car bogged and just stop responding. This happened after 2 gear and the car just coast to the finish line. The car bogged and then no response when I give it gas and it rev to 3.5K max. After ~10-20 sec later the car would respond again and i can drive back to the pit. What is going on? Car was tuned on Hondata on the dyno and there wasnt any issues. I never tested the car hard through all the gears like 1st-4th after the dyno session just highway runs and it was fine.

how do i attach my calibration and data log on this website?

Lets see if this link works my Hondata Calibration
http://www.mediafire.com/?sxigyxny2ms

and my data log file
http://www.mediafire.com/?zcjtg0xej0r

Any thoughts on what is wrong with the calibration if any? Thanks

Modified by Poey2 at 10:48 PM 5/14/2008


Modified by Poey2 at 11:24 PM 5/14/2008

 

Wow, is all I have to say. If I made that map, I'd be embarrassed.

Look at your high cam timing maps, and fuel maps. What the hell is up with that? Also, does your TPS work properly? I never saw it exceed 74%, ever.

Oh, and your rev limit was on for a long *** time after your 2nd gear shift, you might want to really look everything over.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, is all I have to say. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree on the calibration & checking your tps.

Take your car to a real tuner asap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree on the calibration & checking your tps.

Take your car to a real tuner asap </TD></TR></TABLE>

do you think my TPS is bad? or does it need to be adjusted? I guess I can test it and see if it reads correctly at full throttle. Thanks for the input.

 

Locash,

Can you be a little more specific on what is wrong with the high cam timing map and fuel map.

Thanks

 

Interestingly enough, the timing values are all the same anywhere in boost, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Also, if you look at the fuel maps, you will see that at a certain load point, the fuel values decrease when they should be increasing. Basically, the map looks like crap.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Interestingly enough, the timing values are all the same anywhere in boost, which doesn't make a whole lot of sense. Also, if you look at the fuel maps, you will see that at a certain load point, the fuel values decrease when they should be increasing. Basically, the map looks like crap.</TD></TR></TABLE>


ironically i see this all the time when i pull tunes out of peoples s300 computers when they come for tuning because their car runs like crap, or because they have blown up 5 engines in 2 years (true story)

 

If your check engine light comes on and the car will not rev past 4,000 rpm, the computer may likely be in limp mode. If the same person who tuned your car also chipped your computer you may want to have those solder joints looked at as well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


ironically i see this all the time when i pull tunes out of peoples s300 computers when they come for tuning because their car runs like crap, or because they have blown up 5 engines in 2 years (true story)</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

too bad you guys are not near where i live. it would save me alot of tuning sessions if i can get tune right the first time and not have to go to different tuners to find out the expensive way.

 

Your map is less than ideal. 20 degrees of ignition timing at 24 lbs. of boost is a recipe for disaster. Your motor may be hurt
Normally, a B series motor runs ~30 degres of ignition timing in column #10 on the high cam. You want to pull about 0.75 degrees of ignition timing for every 1 pound of boost. So you would be running about 27 degrees at 4 PSI. About 12-14 degrees at 24 PSI. It's usually safer to err on the side of caution with boost and ignition timing.

 

High cam ignition timing should look more like this:



This is just a rough map

 

Thanks for the info. Now Im worried my motor could be hurt from all of this. I should pay more attention and educate myself a little more instead of puttin all my trust in someone.

What do I do now? Go to a new tuner and start tuning over again? I really need someone who can tune my car correctly. Im getting fustrated now after knowing that my motor could be hurt because of this.

Thanks all for your help

 

the car above must make peak torque before vtec and torque must never drop lol j/k....i didnt look at the original map but just listening to what everybody is saying it doesnt sound very good and could def. cause engine damage.


your only option is to make sure the engine is still in good shape and take it to somebody who knows what they are doing.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> High cam ignition timing should look more like this:



This is just a rough map
</TD></TR></TABLE>

okay here are my high and low ignition tables. The high doesnt look anything like yours. I am not taking my car back to the same tuner.

I've booked a tuning session with Redzone performance in Fremont in a couple of weeks. They are going to do 91 pump gas, race gas, and street tuning. I hope they're good.