Ingnition Timing Part 2 (possible solution & Pics)
This is Part 2 of https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2286953
Quick Recap, My R was running like **** and timing supposedly was bad and CEL 9 was showing up....
Finally i got some time to work on the R, and this is what i found....
Dizzy cover missing the lower bolt (not showing, but it was missing)

we find a really dirty distributor, that it seems to be missing the leak cover and the rotor is pretty beat up.

closer pic

ohh and the retaining rotor bolt was missing as well, it was just laying on the cover..


do you guys think i could still use this cover....

anyways, without going to honda, where can i get a replacement rotor or any other dizzy part that i might need?
PS, thank for all the input on my part 1 and the people who recommended to look in the dizzy.
Quick Recap, My R was running like **** and timing supposedly was bad and CEL 9 was showing up....
Finally i got some time to work on the R, and this is what i found....
Dizzy cover missing the lower bolt (not showing, but it was missing)

we find a really dirty distributor, that it seems to be missing the leak cover and the rotor is pretty beat up.

closer pic

ohh and the retaining rotor bolt was missing as well, it was just laying on the cover..


do you guys think i could still use this cover....

anyways, without going to honda, where can i get a replacement rotor or any other dizzy part that i might need?
PS, thank for all the input on my part 1 and the people who recommended to look in the dizzy.
Same thing just happened to me actually. I wouldn't use that cap again. I would get them from honda (particularly sonsacuraparts.com), but you can get them from any autoparts store, but they'll probably have to order them. You may also want to clean some of that dust out of there and make sure there isn't any other debris floating around inside.
Oh yeah, I was busy today but I found an explanation for the timing being off at the crank. My friend and I took a caliper to the original timing belt cover and a brand new one from Honda. The newer ones are made from a different mold and there is a significant difference in timing reference point.
sunday morning update..
i got an ultra JDM Duralast Rotor from Auto zone, and i just intalled it, and it runs like a champ!!!!
i am still using the beat up cap too, and it is idlying well, it is at 800rpms, i rather have it at 750rpm tho.
in a couple of weeks i will order the OEM leak cover, cap, and rotor.
i got an ultra JDM Duralast Rotor from Auto zone, and i just intalled it, and it runs like a champ!!!!
i am still using the beat up cap too, and it is idlying well, it is at 800rpms, i rather have it at 750rpm tho.
in a couple of weeks i will order the OEM leak cover, cap, and rotor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tiger_Si »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
in a couple of weeks i will order the OEM leak cover, cap, and rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
in a couple of weeks i will order the OEM leak cover, cap, and rotor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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OEM is the only way to go.
IN reference to the red dust of death.... could a seized bearing cause the ignitor and or coil to burn up quickly? or are you more concerned about the oil leak into the housing>?
IN reference to the red dust of death.... could a seized bearing cause the ignitor and or coil to burn up quickly? or are you more concerned about the oil leak into the housing>?
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