I am Currently Running a B20 vtec set up and i use a Golden eagle sandwich plate.

I want to set up an oil cooler on the car to reduce oil temps on track days and daily. I have heard of people running 2 sandwich plates and not having a loss in oil pressure but the whole idea of 2 sandwich plates seems ridiculous, not to mention how close it brings the filter to the firewall

Is anyone running a similar setup or run into this problem before? Are there any other ways I can run the cooler with 10 an fittings besides through a sandwich plate? Please post pics if you have them.

 

While I personally haven't done a B20 Vtec, what you are trying to do is simple. I would get a adapter plate, not a sandwich plate, to a remote filter, then to your cooler. You can get these from places like Pegasus Racing Supplies.

 

i ran the remote filter and saw some pressure losses.
i would run 2 plates. i am currantly running 2 plates because i needed to space the fittings away from the back of the block. knock wood, zero issues and i've had that set up on since the beginning of last season.
also, if its for daily and track use, your gonna want to put a thermostat in the cooler so the oil warms up a little quicker. just a tip.

 

Spence, not sure if this was your issue, but with my sandwich plate, I had the fittings hitting that coolant pipe on the back of the block. BFH (rubber variety) solved that nicely Though not before "finding out the hard way" that there was interference. And then having to clean up the 6 quarts of oil on the garage floor.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Spence, not sure if this was your issue, but with my sandwich plate, I had the fittings hitting that coolant pipe on the back of the block. BFH (rubber variety) solved that nicely Though not before "finding out the hard way" that there was interference. And then having to clean up the 6 quarts of oil on the garage floor.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep and the angle of the lines was kinda sh!tty. if i had some 90* fittings i would be ok.

 

Yeah, I do have 90* fittings there. If you're using straight fittings that must be a major pain in the ***.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stinkycheezmonky &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah, I do have 90* fittings there. If you're using straight fittings that must be a major pain in the ***.</TD></TR></TABLE>
with one plate, yea. iit was prittymuch impossible. but since i had another plate and plugs for it lying around, i used it. worked mint.

 

been running 2 plates (and straight fittings) for 3+ years now with no leaks or pressure loss. If I did it again I would still use two plates, but probably angle fittings.

 

I run a Mocal thermostatic plate with 60 degree -12 fittings on the sandwich plate. It's very close, but no interference problems on my H22. With the -12 hose, I still get very good oil pressure in the head. Obviously, I don't run a remote oil filter.

The oil cooler is mounted sideways where the AC condensor is normally mounted. It's a 25 row Mocal cooler. Even in the Texas heat, oil temps stay around 230F.

 

I am also doing a B20v and have been considering a cooler myself. I drive my car daily and out NW summers are only harsh for a month er so. I told a friend of mine I was thinking of it once and, he got all bent out of shape telling me about propper oil temps ect. I guess my best bet is to get a oil temp gauge and just monitor for now.. but how hot is too hot?

That Mocal setup is very nice

 

If you're just daily driving, I don't think it's possible to get your oil temps up to "too hot," especially in the NW. What's "harsh" to you is "chickenshit" to Southerners For your own reference +300*F is getting to be too hot.

 

I run a B20 in H1 and run two sandwich plates. One for for the Golden Eagle vtec conversion system, the other is a greddy sandwich plate for my greddy oil cooler & accusump. No leaks (not yet) nor pressure loss, and I've been using this combo since NASA Nationals '06.

 

Well mocal makes a sandwhich plate that has a built in thermostat but its a 180 degree one. Is that too low of an oil temp for the B?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by champwhiteEG6 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well mocal makes a sandwhich plate that has a built in thermostat but its a 180 degree one. Is that too low of an oil temp for the B?</TD></TR></TABLE>

nope, that'll be about perfect.

 

I've set up a couple guys with just a cheap EAR519 adapter plate... then end some -8 or 10 hoses with this....



The double swivel and 45 degree kick off seems to solve the issue with clearing the back of the b-blocks, plus it threads right into the sandwich plate so no need in screwing around with an thread in AN to NPT adapter and then a hose end on top of that.


Lo-Buck EF, when you relocated your filter, what sized line did you use? I could imagine too large of a line would be a key culprit in losing oil pressure no?

 

Oil pressure drop is caused by using hose that's too small in diameter (restricts flow), not too large.

Most Honda's I've worked on used -10 hose. I use -12 just to ensure that there is minimal pressure loss.

 

well i'm also deciding if i should get an aluminium radiator or the oil cooler.

 

why not a big aluminum radiator and the OEM oil cooler?

At least that's how Spoon does it. Their N1 radiator is massive in capacity and has built-in block off plates for the side and top to ensure air is forced through radiator and not bled through those openings.

No, I'm not telling you to buy the $2,000 (or something ridiculously priced) radiator, but I am saying to get a large radiator and fabricate your own block off plates.

FWIW, I asked Spoon president why he doesn't run an external oil cooler and he just said..."not necessary- more things can break (leak) during racing." Wai has been running this setup for years in H2 as well and IIRC, that car competed in a few 24hr or was it 12hr enduros in Japan where it can get pretty damn hot weather wise as well.

 

curious about what others think about the "no oil cooler" setup idea...

i DONT FEEL LIKE running my cooler again.. i like my engine bay more without it! haha i've got a MASSIVE radiator though, and that helps

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Lo-Buck EF, when you relocated your filter, what sized line did you use? I could imagine too large of a line would be a key culprit in losing oil pressure no?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i originally had the b&m kit. i forget what size line it was. but when i kept the same line but ditched the remote, huge filter, the pressure went up.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">curious about what others think about the "no oil cooler" setup idea...

i DONT FEEL LIKE running my cooler again.. i like my engine bay more without it! haha i've got a MASSIVE radiator though, and that helps</TD></TR></TABLE>
i know plenty of racers not using coolers or they use the oe honda cooler. no one has had any issues that i know of.

 

i've got a temp gauge, so i'll just keep an eye on it, and see if i need one! haha

 

I think as long as you have a big enough radiator and it's properly blocked off to divert air through it, you will be fine with a mildly built B18C.

I can't say what will happen if you have the compression bumped up a few points...

Spoon didn't even use a temp gauge in Wai's car.... they rely only on a pressure gauge. I also asked about that and he just said "pressure more important than temperature."

Just relaying what I heard...

 

Alot of racing leagues find that water pressure is a better reading then water temp. I would imagine that if a cooling system is up-to snuff for the task and properly equipped with shrouds, the water temp would almost be a moot point. plus a pressure gauge would be more telling because if you start losing coolant, the temp sensor wouldn't reflect it much if at all.

 

For those who see a pressure drop with only one sandwich adapter, are you running an adapter that has 3/8" NPT outlets or 1/2" NPT outlets. I run a bypass that has 1/2" outlets with -10 line and see no problems??!??!????

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redzcstandardhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've got a temp gauge, so i'll just keep an eye on it, and see if i need one! haha</TD></TR></TABLE>
most who get a gauge get a cooler. i'm just saying. its the chain of events.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ComeOnKip &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alot of racing leagues find that water pressure is a better reading then water temp. I would imagine that if a cooling system is up-to snuff for the task and properly equipped with shrouds, the water temp would almost be a moot point. plus a pressure gauge would be more telling because if you start losing coolant, the temp sensor wouldn't reflect it much if at all.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep. water pressure moves before the temp actually does.