I'm looking to upgrade my brakes a little bit. It's for a 1997 Civic Coupe. I do NOT want to convert my rear drums to disks or convert my front brakes. I want to know whats a good company for drum brakes and what is a good setup for fronts? I hear Brembo blanks and Hawk pads but what kind of Hawk pads? There are a lot.

Thanks.

 

spoon *****? why not splurge on some spoon calipers then.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1431541

 

What are some good drum's out there. I see that Brembo makes some???

 

why not make the switch to disc in the rear? just wondering

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by McDonagh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not make the switch to disc in the rear? just wondering </TD></TR></TABLE>
There isn't really any increase in braking with rear discs, they are just easier to work on. If your rear drums are still working fine then just leave them.

My brakes are fine in my civic, you just need to learn how to thresh hold brake and not lock them up. Also depends greatly on your tires.

 

Just trying to see what good brands are out there for drums...

 

Seriously, no ones replaces they're drums or can point me in the right position?

 

I'll be bumping until I die.

 

hawk hp+ pads with autozone rotors, steel braided brake lines, integra mc and bb and you're good to go

 

What is the advantage of SS brake lines?

Thanks

 

i dont know all the advantages but i was stold ss lines dont flex like rubber helping with braking..

 

SS lines won't flex like rubber, so you get a firmer pedal feel.

Honestly, if you just overhaul the whole system with OEM stuff you'll be set. I put new OEM pads with $25 brand-x rotors on my 99 LX. Then I bled the entire system until all the air was out and fresh DOT 3 fluid in all the lines. Never even touched the rear drums and the car stops very well. I can easily lock the tires on dry pavement, which is more than enough braking power. If you did the drums and shoes you'd probably never have to change them again.

A nice easy upgrade would be a master cylinder brace. It keeps the firewall from flexing under load during heavy braking, so also better pedal feel and less fade. Had one on an old Subaru and it worked great. They can be had for around $60 and an easy bolt-on mod.

Hope that helps!

 

 

Thanks for all your help!

 

just because you can lock your brakes up doesn't mean you have great braking power.

 

Wow, thanks for that helpful and informative post, dick.

It's people like you who are making these forums become less and less useful with your trash talking, ignorant posting. Did you even read? Did I say I have great braking power.

The only greatness here is your lack of intelligence and respect for this forum.

 

Let's take it easy guys and get back to topic.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wow, thanks for that helpful and informative post, dick.

It's people like you who are making these forums become less and less useful with your trash talking, ignorant posting. Did you even read? Did I say I have great braking power.

The only greatness here is your lack of intelligence and respect for this forum.</TD></TR></TABLE>

look who's talking lol

and yeah i agree, you didn't say great, but you said your car stops very well.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Swerv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Never even touched the rear drums and the car stops very well. I can easily lock the tires on dry pavement, which is more than enough braking power. If you did the drums and shoes you'd probably never have to change them again.</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you read the initial post, he's asking how to upgrade his brakes and all you said was to put on all this oem crap. imo, that wasn't much help. do you agree?

however, yes i did help, what else do you want me to say? convert to 5 lug? get nsx brakes? big brake kit? he said he didn't want to convert. the only thing i forgot to mention would be to get some high boiling point brake fluid such as motul/ate super blue/ etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hoo my gosh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hawk hp+ pads with autozone rotors, steel braided brake lines, integra mc and bb and you're good to go</TD></TR></TABLE>

btw you need to relax before you start calling people names. pretty childish if you ask me.





Modified by hoo my gosh at 10:46 AM 5/15/2008

 

I'll tell you from my experience that upgraded pads and rotors do not compare with an upgrade such as front integra brakes. I did the brembo blanks and hawk hps pads on my stock 9" rotors. The braking was better, but it took a while to warm up the pads to have that better braking. I love the increased stopping power that i get from my integra brake setup; however, when I upgraded to integra spindles i could lock up my 195/60/14 falken ziex with relative ease. I mean i could lock them up even on the highway doing 80mph. I soon upgraded sizes to 205/50/15 kuhmo asx. Even with the increased width in tire, and the upgrade from a perfomance tire to a ultra high performance tire. I can still lock my brakes up if I slam the pedal down hard enough and fast enough.

If you do upgrade to integra spindles I recommend changing the wheel bearings and inspecting the lower ball joint along with getting new outer tie-rods(Check your caliper seals as well). All in all i think it cost me around $550 to get the spindles recondition them, add parts on top of that, and an upgraded master cylinder to top it all off.

Over all I am very happy with the upgrades i chose. I did this to my VX before i installed my d15b and all of my suspension compenents.

 

i agree. the size of the rotors and tire selection play a descent role in stopping power.

to the op, what size are your rotors?

 

Whatever the OEM 97 EX rotors are.