First off I want to let everyone know that my plans for this thread is an eventual full write up on how to install these parts so that everyone else can use this as a resource and hopefully it will make it to the FAQ. I am using Skunk2 lowering springs and tokico HP shocks on my 88 4 door. (I am converting to the fork style rear shock BTW) And I want to order some new top hats from honda so I can pre assemble my suspension setup to limit the downtime on my car. Here we go with some questions I have:

Parts Used:Still editing

Skunk2 Lowering springs (Smaller diameter=Front) (Larger Diameter=Rear)


Skunk2 Lower Control Arms




Assembly (Front)

Put the bumpstop (cut in half) on

Put the bumpstop plate on

Top hat from top view

Top hat from bottom view

Diagram of how to put the two bushings and sleeve together with the top hat. One bushing should lay on top, one on the bottom and the sleeve should hold them together.

Top hat from top view assembled

Top hat from bottom view assembled

Place rubber gasket into the bottom of the top hat

Place the top hop assembled onto the strut and push down until you can put the washer and locking nut on top. Once you tightened them down enough, the rod will begin to spin. Therefore you need to use an allen wrench and a box wrench (14mm) to finish tightening everything up. Should look like this when finished



Pics of rubber gasket for the hell of it



Thank you for your help and I will progressively be updating this thread to eventually show step by step instructions with the how to info on how to install these pieces. I want to make sure everything is correct and in order before I begin this process however.




Modified by crx2nr822 at 4:05 PM 5/15/2008

 

Yes, you need those parts, all of them. If you don't have all the washers, your mounts won't stay together and then the strut will come out the top of the shock tower. The springs should have markings as to which are front and rear. When I got my Tokico setup, the springs were labeled 5046-R (rear) and 5046-F (Front). If not, then the smaller diameter springs should go up front, and the larger in the rear. Also you will need to install the brake line brackets to make sure your lines don't rub anything.


Modified by lxk199 at 6:16 PM 5/8/2008

 

I would probably search first. Hard to believe this hasn't been covered or isn't in the faq somewhere.

First off, you definately need #12 in pic 1 (Damper Stop Plate). This will prevent your shock stem from moving through the top hat and denting your hood or possibly going through it (front). #9 (Dust Cover Plate) is not needed if you are not using the dust covers.

The brake lines should be obvious. If there are no places on the shock to mount the lines, you must add the brackets they provided.

Springs... left ones in pic are for front, right ones for rear.

To be honest, if you are skilled, this should take no more than a couple hours and should not need replacement of any items with exception to #10 (front) #14 (rear) since they didn't provide it and may be worn. Your springs come with a 2-1/4"-2-1/2" drop, so probably won't even need a spring compressor. If you still do, you can rent them free from auto zone, etc. with a minimal deposit.

 

Thank you for your help guys, so far from what you guys have said I am going to need these parts:

#8,10,12 from the first diagram (not #9 since I wont be running a dust cover)
#3,5,14 from the second diagram (not #4 since I wont be running the dust cover)

Please let me know if I misunderstood anything. Also I checked the FAQ section and most of the links have pics that dont work, or are bad links that dont work at all which is why I decided to do my own.

And I do realize I could compress the springs and use the old top hats, but with it being 20 years old, I think its ok to replace some parts Any other suggestions or parts that I may have missed?

 

wow took some time on this! hit me up if you want help, we can knock it out quick. -simon

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TUcRxBO &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow took some time on this! hit me up if you want help, we can knock it out quick. -simon </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks homie, I gotta drop the 4 door asap, I dont want to look like hoobie's car

 

Can anyone confirm the list of things I need?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anyone confirm the list of things I need?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Anyone?

 

i will reiterate that you MUST have #12, bumpstop washer, for each shock.

no you dont need #9, thin black washer, if you arent going to use the dust covers.

i personally dont think its worth buying new sets of top mounts for the cost of new ones just so you can have everything assembled beforehand. sure if you had them laying around or got them cheap at the junkyard, its totally worth it. but i dont see the value in buying them new or anything.

the metal brackets are to mate to your front brake lines. 88's had different brake line mounts. the shock is made to fit 88 brake lines without the brackets, the 89-91 brake lines will need the brackets. no big deal.

remember to jack the wheel up before tightening all the suspension bushings. and get an alignment as soon as possible after the installation.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i will reiterate that you MUST have #12, bumpstop washer, for each shock.

no you dont need #9, thin black washer, if you arent going to use the dust covers.

i personally dont think its worth buying new sets of top mounts for the cost of new ones just so you can have everything assembled beforehand. sure if you had them laying around or got them cheap at the junkyard, its totally worth it. but i dont see the value in buying them new or anything.

the metal brackets are to mate to your front brake lines. 88's had different brake line mounts. the shock is made to fit 88 brake lines without the brackets, the 89-91 brake lines will need the brackets. no big deal.

remember to jack the wheel up before tightening all the suspension bushings. and get an alignment as soon as possible after the installation.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Tyson for the info, I will definitely get #12 (4 of them total) for when I do the install. I got a friend who is willing to give me an employee discount at honda so thats why I am deciding to purchase new top hats along with the fact that I just want to take the old out and put the new in quick.

So it looks like I will not be needing to use the brake line brackets provided since my car is an 88 so I will just save them in case I ever need them for another project.

And I'm not sure what you mean by "jack the wheel up before tightening all the suspension bushings?" Can you explain some more? I appreciate the help Tyson, hope to see you at this years EF meet

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the stock rubber bushings are made of a inner metal sleeve and an outer metal sleeve. there is rubber filled between the two and bonded to the surface of both sleeves. the inner sleeve can only rotate so much relative to the outer sleeve because the rubber only allows so much stretch. it also stretches elastically, like a spring. bushings actually contribute to the spring rate of your suspension. when you tighten the bolt to the bushing, it locks the relative position of the inner sleeve to the outer sleeve, plus the range of motion and spring force the bushing allows.

if you do not reset your bushings, then the bushing is forced to be in a stretched position most of the time at an outer range of the intended motion, instead of resting at the middle, unstretched position. and once you over stretch the bushing, it loses its capacity to stretch and breaks the rubber like a rubber band. which is how you easily kill a bushing. gone is the spring rate of the bushing and will likely deteriorate faster and cause slop in positioning the inner sleeve concentric to the outer sleeve.

aftermarket urethane bushings dont have this problem since the inner sleeve can rotate freely inside (which also causes the squeaks). but they have other issues of their own i dont need to go into now.

to reset your bushings, put the car on 4 jackstands. take the wheels off. loosen the suspension bolts. put a jack under one of the suspension corners and raise it until that corner is off the jack stand. bounce the car a bit. then tighten. dont forget to tighten a bolt youve already loosened.

ignore the trailing arm bushing and upper arm, inner bushing. theyre not resettable because of the "dogbone" design. youd have to press the bushing out and reclock it.

see, its in the helms manual. its not just my instructions, but nobody before me (that i ever heard) ever pointed this out. in the case in the helms, it only assumes youre putting in the same spring, so ride height doesnt change. because ride height changes when you put different springs on, you need to do ALL the affected bushings.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Is this only for the rear? I am going to be using Skunk2 LCA's with polyurethane bushings in the rear so should I be in the clear with those? Sorry for all the questions, just trying to get everything correct and learn something new.

 

Depending on how bad your shocks are right now you will most likely need new bump stops (#13 in the first pick & #6 in the second). I could have definately used some new ones when I did mine. Even if they're not abused by use they may be dry rotted. Be ready to have some trouble with #20 the lower shock bolt for the rears. Worst case scenario you might need to cut/grind the head or nut of the bolt off.

Ohh I guess if your changing out the LCA's you don't have to worry bout that. Still some info you might want to include if your doing a write up though. I think the problem with the lower shock bolt was mostly 88-89, they changed the bolt style for 90-91. (someone correct me if I'm wrong with that one)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is this only for the rear? </TD></TR></TABLE>

no the front too.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I am going to be using Skunk2 LCA's with polyurethane bushings in the rear so should I be in the clear with those? </TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean? just make sure to lube the bushings up.

edit: oh yeah you have an 88, you're fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Creator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Depending on how bad your shocks are right now you will most likely need new bump stops (#13 in the first pick & #6 in the second). I could have definately used some new ones when I did mine. Even if they're not abused by use they may be dry rotted. Be ready to have some trouble with #20 the lower shock bolt for the rears. Worst case scenario you might need to cut/grind the head or nut of the bolt off.

Ohh I guess if your changing out the LCA's you don't have to worry bout that. Still some info you might want to include if your doing a write up though. I think the problem with the lower shock bolt was mostly 88-89, they changed the bolt style for 90-91. (someone correct me if I'm wrong with that one)</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the tokico pieces came with new bumpstops and Ive read that if your lowering the car that I should cut the bumpstops in half which is what I am planning to do I hope I dont have any problems with bolts breaking when I do this install

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What do you mean? just make sure to lube the bushings up.
edit: oh yeah you have an 88, you're fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>

So I will just need to reset the bushings in the front since I am going to using polyurethane bushings in the rear. I think i've got it down

 

let me fix that
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
So I will ALSO need to reset the bushings in the front as well as the rear. I think i've got it down </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

If you have new LCAs just toss the shock out with the old LCAs attached. Ohh....you'll need a new bolt down there. I think on some of the oem's the nut was welded to the shock, don't know how your tokico's came but you might need the nut too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">let me fix that</TD></TR></TABLE>

O ok, so it doesnt matter that the new LCA's are using polyurethane bushings instead of rubber ones, I'll reset all four corners then

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Creator &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have new LCAs just toss the shock out with the old LCAs attached. Ohh....you'll need a new bolt down there. I think on some of the oem's the nut was welded to the shock, don't know how your tokico's came but you might need the nut too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah the new tokicos also have a nut welded to the shock so all I need to reuse is the bolt.....if it breaks I think I have some laying around that I could use.

 

Okay guys, now that some questions have been answered I am going to clean up the first post a little bit and change some information around, but keep the input and advice coming! This is for all the fellow HT'ers to use as a resource.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crx2nr822 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

O ok, so it doesnt matter that the new LCA's are using polyurethane bushings instead of rubber ones, I'll reset all four corners then
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well i guess if the metal spacer in the bushing isn't attached to the bushing then no.
sorry I havent seen the bushings before.
I just didn't want you to get the impression that you only do it to the front.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by grog &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well i guess if the metal spacer in the bushing isn't attached to the bushing then no.
sorry I havent seen the bushings before.
I just didn't want you to get the impression that you only do it to the front.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I will have a pic for you by tomorrow of the LCA's that way you can have a closer look and then we can decide from there

 

I'm gonna order the parts on monday from honda, guys let me know if there is anything that I may have missed so I can order it with everything else.

 

my tokico hp's blew in 1000 miles or less, they suck for any decent amount of drop. have illuminas with omni power coilovers and they ride great. just my.02 cents. good luck with your project.

 

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind

 

Grog, I uploaded a a couple new pictures of the Skunk2 LCA's for you to look at on the first post....they are kinda crappy though.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nfereorhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my tokico hp's blew in 1000 miles or less, they suck for any decent amount of drop. have illuminas with omni power coilovers and they ride great. just my.02 cents. good luck with your project. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Your comment got me curious so I decided to research a little bit more and found that tokico blues dont have a very good track record with cars lowered more than two inches (which the drop of these springs or supposed to be around 2.5") But that doesnt mean I am going to stop this write up or sell the blues. I will use them for now see how they do, and give a review of how I think they are performing as I drive on them more. I'll probably eventually get illuminas but not at this point in time.

BTW I updated the top thread and put some pics of the LCA's and a closer look of their bushings......the pics didnt come out so well but I will try to get some better ones tomorrow.