BRAKES: BASE RSX vs Type S
My car is a BASE RSX.
I have since upgraded the rotors and calipers up front (rear is the same size, 9.8 or 10.8" I forget)
Front rotor size went 10.8 to 11.8 in the Type S caliper/rotors.
BMC was 7/8" and I changed it to 15/16" off a Type S. Driving other Type S's from the factory, their brake pedals are stiffer (stop the car w/ less pedal movement).
No air in the lines, I bleed before every track day.
I have a Type S brake booster waiting to go in, but I was pretty sure from what I read, the bigger BMC should have solved the pedal issue, w/ my car having to use more pedal travel to stop the car.
(for example, I was helping a cousin bed-in his new pads in his Type S...I accidentally locked up the brakes on the first pedal application--shows how much more pedal application I'm used to in my car.
At this point should I expect the brake booster to solve the brake discrepency?
Do I need to source a Type S prop valve as well (last piece missing from a full Type S system)...running ATE btw.
I have since upgraded the rotors and calipers up front (rear is the same size, 9.8 or 10.8" I forget)
Front rotor size went 10.8 to 11.8 in the Type S caliper/rotors.
BMC was 7/8" and I changed it to 15/16" off a Type S. Driving other Type S's from the factory, their brake pedals are stiffer (stop the car w/ less pedal movement).
No air in the lines, I bleed before every track day.
I have a Type S brake booster waiting to go in, but I was pretty sure from what I read, the bigger BMC should have solved the pedal issue, w/ my car having to use more pedal travel to stop the car.
(for example, I was helping a cousin bed-in his new pads in his Type S...I accidentally locked up the brakes on the first pedal application--shows how much more pedal application I'm used to in my car.
At this point should I expect the brake booster to solve the brake discrepency?
Do I need to source a Type S prop valve as well (last piece missing from a full Type S system)...running ATE btw.
Yes, just change the booster and the brake master cylinder for the Type S units and this should solve your problem. But you have to change the booster AND the bmc both.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RicTRD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes, just change the booster and the brake master cylinder for the Type S units and this should solve your problem. But you have to change the booster AND the bmc both.</TD></TR></TABLE>15/16" BMC is already installed. BB waiting to go in.
The current GRM had an article about brakes, and mentioning the MC should have been the main part to change pedal leverage (which makes sense to me since it went 7/8 to 15/16") The BMC I put in shouldn't be bad either, it came from a friend's 2005 w/ less than 20k miles before I took it off his car.
That's what made me wonder why my setup's pedal leverage did not change w/ the Type S BMC.
PNs between base and Type S are different across the board, but I was expecting the biggest difference in pedal leverage (effort) in the BMC, but experienced none. I do not lock up the brakes, if anything it might be the rears that go out first so I think that's a good thing (better than front anyway) so I'm thinking I might not need the prop valve.
The current GRM had an article about brakes, and mentioning the MC should have been the main part to change pedal leverage (which makes sense to me since it went 7/8 to 15/16") The BMC I put in shouldn't be bad either, it came from a friend's 2005 w/ less than 20k miles before I took it off his car.
That's what made me wonder why my setup's pedal leverage did not change w/ the Type S BMC.
PNs between base and Type S are different across the board, but I was expecting the biggest difference in pedal leverage (effort) in the BMC, but experienced none. I do not lock up the brakes, if anything it might be the rears that go out first so I think that's a good thing (better than front anyway) so I'm thinking I might not need the prop valve.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98SpecR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know you said you bleed your brakes every track day, but did you bleed the brake master cylinder really good when you changed it?</TD></TR></TABLE>yep bench bled or whatever you call it and went through a LOT of fluid at the valves on purpose (since i read if you don't bench bleed the MC, u can still get all the air out through the lines, just takes ridiculous amounts of fluid to do so). so i did both.
i mean if u recommend me doing something in addition to, or in alternative to the above, lemme know since i'll have to re-do the whole process when putting in the booster anyway. (even got a whole jug of prestone yellow bottle just to flush the whole thing through, then put in the ATE AFTER THE FACT to make sure it's bled well.)
i mean if u recommend me doing something in addition to, or in alternative to the above, lemme know since i'll have to re-do the whole process when putting in the booster anyway. (even got a whole jug of prestone yellow bottle just to flush the whole thing through, then put in the ATE AFTER THE FACT to make sure it's bled well.)
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