Ok So I Just Did A B16a Swap And It Was Running Fine For About 3 Days Then It Just Dies On The Side Of The Highway ON Me. I Towed It Home And Realized I Couldnt Hear The Fuel Pump. I Did The Check Of Jumping The 2 Wires At The Relay And Then Checking For Voltage At The Fuel Sending Unit. I Have No Voltage There So Now I Did A Continuity Test From The Main Relay The The Fuel Sending Unit Connector And Thats Good. I Then Pulled The Main Relay And Did The 3 Tests On That And It Passed. Then I Said F It And Put 12 Volts Directly To The Pump From The Sending Unit Connector And I Could Hear A Faint Buzz But It Still Wont Start. I Checked Spark And Thats Good. Also Not That It Really Matters I Got A Solid 6.86 Volts Coming To The Sending Unit On The Other 2 Wires That Go To My Fuel Tank Fuel Level I Think.

Any Help Would Be Great. I Was Sure That Throwing 12 Volts At The Pump Would At Least Get It Started But It Didnt So Now Im Kinda Frustrated.

Thanks

 

Frist check to see if you have gas, most floaters go out fast and give false fuel readings

Next, if its not that, you might have a bad fuel pump. which you should just replace, 2

a blockage in the fuel lines or filter, get some fuel system cleaner, and a new fram fuel filter.

if still no go, check the motors fuel rail and injectors, also check to see if you have spark

Plugs,wires,cap,rotary disc,coil.

 

beneath the dash above your left foot is a interconnect taped to the harness.

Unwrap the tape and pull down the brownish-orange wide flat connector.

Pull the connector off and check the terminals they will probly be corroded and or overheated.

clean them then put the jumper connector back on. (you may need to do this a few times to get the contacts happy)


This is a main interconnect and if the ground bus is bad the interlock never allows the pump to turn on, even if all the wires you tested pass