Hey guys, I am going to re-buld my GSR motor and I was wondering what you guys used to hone the cylinder walls with? There is the stone type or the "dingleball" type.

Any help would much appreciated. I was thinking about getting this one from Summit:



Or should I get this one:

 

uh....you aren't planning on honing by hand, are you?

 

Do you mean literally by hand, no drill. Or doing it with a drill and not a machine?

 

i meant attempting to hone it with anything other than the appropriate machinery.

which doesn't include a drill press or, most definitely, a hand drill.

does the phrase "out of round" mean anything to you?

 

Niether.

Get the Omniman DVD and you will be enlightened.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Armed Ferret &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i meant attempting to hone it with anything other than the appropriate machinery.

which doesn't include a drill press or, most definitely, a hand drill.

does the phrase "out of round" mean anything to you? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes "out of round" does mean something. Exactly that. The cylinder is not a true circle. I would be able to tell this by taking a bore micrometer and comparing the two measurements. If it is "out of round," looks like a machine shop is gonna be increasing the bore diameter for me.

Thanks for the input and honest advice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Master of the Universe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Niether.

Get the Omniman DVD and you will be enlightened.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i love that video. what ever happened to that motor,how long did it last? those was some high rpms

 

The stone type is really just a glaze breaker. The other one is, well, a hone. There is some power to be had in correct cylinder wall prep. Whether this would really benefit the average street rebuild, I dont know. If there is still decent crosshatch on the walls, I wouldnt touch them.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The stone type is really just a glaze breaker. The other one is, well, a hone. There is some power to be had in correct cylinder wall prep. Whether this would really benefit the average street rebuild, I dont know. If there is still decent crosshatch on the walls, I wouldnt touch them. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the insight!! Very Helpful. I guess I'll know when I take the engine apart.

So if there is a "glaze" of sorts, have it honed?

 

if you are going to run a forged piston you will require more P-to-W than the OEM piston. in which case you will want to have someone with a bore gauge and a nice 4-pt hone, like a sunnen. hone finish depends on ring manufacturer and engine builder preference.

 

I'm gonna run CTR piston's with Hasting's rings. Maybe I should call them up and see what they recommend!

 

they will probably recommend a 280 grit finish. a lot of the modern ring packs on forged pistons seem to get 280 with a 400 or 600 plateau finish.

 

Another thing to keep in mind is that finish hone and ring type determine "break-in" or if there is any.

YOU HERE ME BOI!!!

I couldnt resist.

 

I've actually taken everybody's sound advice and I'm just gonna have a machine shop do it for me. They are already gonna mount the pistons on the rods so I might as well have they "mic" the bore and hone if needed.

 

Have a Sam Adams.

 

BUD ICE!!!! for me. u here me boi