So, I had already started a thread on this problem but it quickly turned to crap as I was becoming the subject of torment, because I said some things that came out wrong, and was coming of as a jackass. Needless to say, its not how i wanted to start my honda-tech 'career' but hopefully we forgive and forget. Back to the problem. at 2k rpm i can hear a loud noise coming from the head. it is only when my car is idling at 2k and once it idles down it goes away and when i drive its gone. some of you guys where saying its rod knock or piston slap but it doesn't really sound like that in my opinion. anyways, your probably wondering why i started a new thread. mainly because i was more so defending myself and pride than talking about my problem in the last thread. I have uploaded a video of my problem, and please forgive my language at the end i usually do not swear.

once again sorry for my last thread, i just want to start over!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=API_ppga74s

any help would be just spiritual!!

 

ima say you needa adjust your valves?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyorishin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ima say you needa adjust your valves?</TD></TR></TABLE>

start there

if problem persists, look into spending more money most likely.

have u ran low on oil lately?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kyorishin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ima say you needa adjust your valves?</TD></TR></TABLE>

try that then let us know what it sounds like

 

no never. i do burn a little oil but i top it up when i need to. i use synthetic oil as well. how hard is it adjust your valves?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_civic_si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Needless to say, its not how i wanted to start my honda-tech 'career' but hopefully we forgive and forget. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Technically I think you get paid for a career. Either that or your in the wrong field. Just had to give you a hard time since you were already complaining.

Check your valve clearance, that's really all you can do without spending any money. Specs are listed in the service manual, or you could probably find them on here, but I'm not gettin off the couch right now.

 

haha alright. you just use a feeler gauge to do that right? i not mind spending money as long as it doesn't accumulate past like 400-500 bucks...i don't wanna dump so much money into a slow as engine

 

yarp, feeler guage, you gotta turn the cam to take pressure off the valve stems when you check the clearance, and if you adjust them, you want very slight pressure on the gauge. Look for another set of instructions for doing this, I suck at explaining it.

 

OK thanks i guess i will search on how to do that. if i adjust my valves and everythings fine, where can i do from there? what else is there to do?

 

MY CAR DOES THE SAME THING!! scares the **** out of me. Im gonna adjust my valves tomorrow see what happens.

 

lol its annoying hey. i think im guna too but first i gotta learn i dont wanna screw it up and make it worse

 

bump...who knows a good thread or website that explains how to adjust your valves. i searched h-t and other places but i couldnt find something descriptive enough for me. like step by step. thanks

 

its called a VALVE LASH ADJUSTMENT

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1305086

this is pretty detailed. i just searched for "valve lash adjustment" and this was the frist one.

the only thing that confused me on this one was which set of valves to adjust with which rotation of the crank.

 

and this should be done with the motor completely cool, its always the best to do this first thing in the am.

the easiest way i found to do it was in my haynes manual which you can buy for like $25. you adjust cyl 4 when #1 piston is at TDC and then you turn the crank to 9oclock and adjust #2 and turn the TDC mark is at 6 oclock and adjust #3 cyl, and turn it once more so its at 3 oclock and adjust the #1 cylinder.

dont quote me on those, i may have mixed them up but thats the easiest technique that i found.

 

ok thanks man. i actually have a hayes manual so that should help me.

 

bump..i adjusted my valves and the noise went down a lot but not completely gone. its weird because the problem is somehow tied with an exhaust rattle.. now it only makes the noise at 3k when i'm driving AND still at 2k at idle. my buddy drove my car and held it at 3k and while i was riding stuck my head out the window and could CLEARLY hear an exhaust rattle coming from around the resonator section ish. but the engine still makes the same noise at 2k and the exhaust will rattle at the same time. WEIRD!!!

 

I think it's an unrelated rattle occuring at the same RPM. I just fixed an exhaust rattle that also accured at 2000 RPM by replacing the spring bolts. My valves are unusually loud if they're adjusted within spec, so I have to set them 0.02mm tighter to make them quiet (0.07" IN, 0.09" EX). I have a d16z6.

 

oh ok where are the spring bolts? i didnt adjust my valves myself i had my mechanic do it so i know they have been done right

 

the spring bolts are are located after your collector. there's a bolt, nut, and spring x2 and they go on either side and they're designed to flex so they don't put stress on the manifold and crack something. i couldn't get them back on the last time i took them off , so they're sitting in my garage and i haven't had a leak since.

 

They take alot of finger muscle. Alot. But it could be alot of things, hangars can rattle, heat shields, ... but simply try to take them off and reinstall them and see if that fixes it, they could just be in the right position to rattle right now. I'm just like you, if something's rattling I have to fix it then and there, I want my car to always be mechanically SOUND, literally in this case.

 

I don't have a lot of finger muscle lol. i have a header so there is no heat shield & its straight piped 2.5" right from the header to a magna flow resonator to the muffler if that helps any. its hard to think of what can rattle when its pretty much straight piped with a res... do u guys think that maybe something in the res is loose or rattling around or something because my car is lowered & when i had the stock 13" steelies on for winter i would bottom out hard on speed bumps, etc. right on the res & its actually got a little crack and scraped up pretty good because of that. now for summer i got my 16" rims on so i don't bottom out. do you think replacing the res could stop the rattle? thanks again i really appreciate the help

 

My turned out be an exhaust rattle. i havnt found out what yeah, but somethings inside, i tapped my oil pan with a hammer and heard nothing, than tapped my header, and bam same sound.

 

yeah so your saying its your header making that weird noise?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lluks_844 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My turned out be an exhaust rattle... tapped my header, and bam same sound.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im 97.6% sure that's what he's talking about, try hitting ur headers with a hammer too

 

hahah 97.6% sure? do i tape the header when my car is running or off? probably running im guessing.. there's something in my header that can rattle?