Alright people, after several weeks of researching and bugging the hell out of several porters on this forum (fkned, CC, along w/ a few others) I finally got through with one intake port. Please give me some constructive criticism so I can improve my skills on the other ports. I know I still have to finish dressing up the port but I'm not sure where else to remove material to improve flow. I wil be practicing on this along w/ 3 other junk heads before I give it a shot on a head that will be on my DD mild build. Also, can you guys reccomend some good port and polishing books, especially on Honda heads, GSR in particular. I've found lots of reading on domestic cars but the chamber and port designs are a bit different and it kinda hard for me to visuallize where to remove material on my own ports/head.







Modified by all-mtr-teg at 9:58 PM 5/5/2008


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 10:47 PM 5/14/2008


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 10:47 PM 5/14/2008

 

looks alright for a 1st time. it seems you got the hump area around the valve guide ok...maybe thin the divider more. raise the roof more. take some of the curve out of the short turn radius. picture a straighter shot to the valve.

what are you doing about the valve seat area? like having angles cut or are radiusing by hand? pay attention to this area and pay someone to cut the seat to the throat is my suggestion. and deshroud (lower the area in the combustion chamber nearest the seat cut. so more air flows at low lift into.

and it does matter what kind of motor you're building. and what rpms the motor runs...there are ways to port for n/a, turbo, s/c, nitrous, etc.


Modified by not so civic at 1:56 AM 5/6/2008

 

So the short turn should be flattened out? I was under the impression that if it was too flat it then the air wouldn't be able to make the turn on the far turn? Maybe I misunderstood the book. And yes, valve job will be done on the actual head I'll be using. Also, where should I concentrate on removing material for a mild build DD, I would like to keep my mid range and gain some up top to say around 8500 RPM.
Thanks for the feedback

 

Make sure you send your head to Combustion Contraption for a valve job. He's got trick custom Newen cutters developed for engines using hi performance all motor camshafts.

CC FTW

 

how much more HP do you think it will make from the porting?

 

Porting the area from 1" away from the seat only really affects flow from 0.350" and on which the valve seat and throat have not been optimized for nets zero gain and a potential loss in velocity (torque loss) depending on how much material has been removed.

 

DIY FTW. no money spent no gains received.

 

Yeah Im actually planning on sending my head to CC for the VJ after the P&P is done. It's the least I can do after bugging him so many times Hopefully he doesn't call me up and say, "This head is ruined, I won't touch it"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by omniman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DIY FTW. no money spent no gains received. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, I know I may not have a flow bench or access to one, but can't I get at least some minor performance gains or at least better gas mileage by deshrouding the valves, cleaning up the casting and raising the roof?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, I know I may not have a flow bench or access to one </TD></TR></TABLE>

if u live in Dinuba, ur not too far from me, here in Fresno there's a local guy whos got a Flowbench, maybe u can contact him for that. I don't know his number but his shops call Airflow Performance and his name is Tim. good luck!

 

Thanks for the lead I had no idea that shop existed, and yeah, I'm in Fresno Monday-Friday cause I work and go to school at CSU Fresno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by all-mtr-teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the lead I had no idea that shop existed, and yeah, I'm in Fresno Monday-Friday cause I work and go to school at CSU Fresno.</TD></TR></TABLE>
cool no problem, i love the art of porting heads myself and had done a few before good luck with that GSR head your working on.

 

Yeah, after talking with CC, Fkned, and MOTU, I learned alot, so Im gonna keep practicing on the 3 junk heads I have, but Im gonna have CC do the one Im gonna use on my build and then maybe try it again on some other junk heads after I seen what a professional P&P should look like after I get mines done by CC.


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 5:45 PM 5/7/2008

 

So for the sake of learning something I kept trying to improve my skill level. Here's what a few more hours got me. Anymore suggestion where to remove material? I haven't finished cleaning it up yet.











Modified by all-mtr-teg at 10:49 PM 5/14/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b20vtech &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

if u live in Dinuba, ur not too far from me, here in Fresno there's a local guy whos got a Flowbench, maybe u can contact him for that. I don't know his number but his shops call Airflow Performance and his name is Tim. good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

A flow bench is somewhat useless to the untrained individual. You could enlarge the head ports, large enough to flow a house through and still lose power because all you really did was increase flow by enlarging the ports instead of make more power by "contouring" them properly. 99% of the time, bigger is not better when it comes to head porting and it's a big reason why such delicate work should be left to the individuals who understand it and know how to do it.

I'm not saying a person can't have fun and experiment on some junk heads but if you do not plan on becoming a professional head porter for a living, you're probably doing more to make the head look "pretty" than actually make power.

 

Yeah, I hear you, the more and more I research and communicate with head porters the more I realize the importance of where the material is removed, rather than how much. Like I said earlier, Im doing this for the sake of learning, not to start a new career. I would just like to get to learn the basics of handling and shaping with the cutters and cartridge rolls. You should be able to pick up some minor gains by cleaning up the casting flaws in a stock head and deshrouding the valves, but the real gains will definately only be achieved from an expert who knows how to direct the air in a more efficient manner.

That's what Im trying to learn, I have an idea of where to remove the material to get a better flowing head, but would like some confirmation as to whether or not I'm removing it in the correct places.

 

So I started messing with the 2nd junk head I had, here's what 1st IN port looks like, help me improve people. I know the guide humps still need cleaning up, but how does it look like as far as where I'm removing material with the burr?

 

going forward

 

You might want to check da curvature radius of your port and tranzishon to the seat and chamber and add some surface features in there to keep da flo laminar.

Fo-Shizzaay!!!!

 

Thanks brotha, will do
Also, I didn't take much material off the short radius, just cleaned up the casting w/ 60 grit. Are you suggesting to flatten out the short turn radius more just after the port floor. On the long or back wall, I took a bit of material out behind the valve guide, should that be rougher? I used 60 grit on the intake and 400 grit final on the exhaust ports.
Should the radius be shortened or lengthened?

Modified by all-mtr-teg at 12:42 PM 5/22/2008


Modified by all-mtr-teg at 12:54 PM 5/22/2008

 

Just keep the short turn as is and smooth and blend. Straightening it out requires some other things that most don't have access to.

 

Should the long turn radius be lenthened also by flattening the curve behind the valve guide and guide boss?

 

Concentrate more near the valve seat. That transition is more important to get right.

 

I didn't want to remove any material from the throat, I was afraid of going larger than 85% of the valve diameter. So should I just roughen the throat up a bit to texture the surface and blend the throat into the seat more?

 

Blend with minimal material removal.