So i'm in the process of piecing my turbo setup together for my accord. I've got nearly everything and i am deciding on whether i should get a greddy type rs or not. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews on it. For example, i've heard complaints about compressor surge, and that's from the 'authentic' rs. Anyone here have suggestions or any experience with this?
thanks in advance!

 

It's not a bad unit, however, the Greddy RS has its limits anywhere above 14-16psi, regardless of the turbo used. I don't think they are bad for mild setups, but if you plan to go a bit larger on the setup later, it might be a bit more prudent to get a TiAL, Synapse, Blitz, or Greddy Type R.

 

ya for now i'm only planning to do a really low boost...probably only 6-8psi. maybe boost it up to 10 if i'm daring enough on stock internals haha i figured it would be ok for my setup. i'm guessing the kids with the surge problems have higher boost applications

 

no the kids with surge are running low boost and the valve doesnt open up easily because it has two springs in it a hard and soft one. remove the smaller one and problem solved.

 

Oh thanks for clearing that up. It makes total sense. I didn't realize how the springs were setup in there. does the ssqv have any problems? low boost, med. boost, or high?

 

TURBO XS RFL FOR THE WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have a Greddy RS (real, of course) on my Ls/vtec with GT3082R. I'm really very happy with it. I had the Type S and this valve is much larger, while using the same flange. I've run as low as 4psi and up to 15psi on it with no issues whatsoever.

 

idk if it matters that your turbo is diff. i'm just using a baby garrett t3 super 60 haha. but nonetheless good to know. i just came across the turbonetics raptor bov too. seems somewhat similar to the hks ssqv. anyone used or heard of this guy before?

 

i have always had problems with greddys not holding shut at idle no matter how i adjust them... ssqv or synchronic ftw

 

why does it matter if it hangs a bit open in idle theres a lot of vacuum thats why? plus not like your using a maf so....

 

because its not right... your intake is a sealed system in which all air is introduced through an air filter, if you have a hole in it somewhere then you are letting all kinds of dirt and contaminated air in, it may seem trivial, but it is just not right

 

X2 you dont want any dirt getting into a 5k long block

 

Since you put it that way sure thats fine, you can also slap a small filter on the bov snout if it permits.

 

My brother ran the authentic Greddy RS on his big turbo SRT-4 which was at about 22-24 psi. Held up fine and performed well.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by londoncivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Since you put it that way sure thats fine, you can also slap a small filter on the bov snout if it permits.</TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you do that? why would you jerry rig something to make a failing part "acceptable"? A BOV is a terribly simple device that MUST do few things to make it acceptable. It has to be closed at idle, it has to hold shut under boost, and it has to open during discharge, if it doesn't do one of those three things, get rid of it and get one that does. I have been a slave to POS greddy valves for the better part of 3 years because my pipe is flanged that way. I have had 1 type s that held shut at idle, but ripped the diaphragm after a few months, 1 type rs that would hold shut, but had to be adjusted so tight to do so that it wouldn't relieve enough air during off throttle so there was a good amount of surge, and a third type rs that would not stay shut during idle at all no matter what.

OP, don't flange that pipe greddy if you know what is good for you, and if you already did, change it before you waste a penny on Greddy CRAP!

 

^^I've heard of people disliking them, but damn...

 

too many hours wasted trying to adjust, too much money wasted replacing with the same junk, now I just want greddy to die...

 

hahah well it looks like i'm probably getting the hks ssqv now lol. sounds like the rs is a complete waste. i'm running like 6-8psi so the hks should do the job fine

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i have always had problems with greddys not holding shut at idle no matter how i adjust them... ssqv or synchronic ftw</TD></TR></TABLE>

Lol, SSQV is terrible and the synchronic is open at idle too by the way. You just put a filter on the synchronic. It's not jerry rigging it, the BOV is designed to close with boost and the only way it's going to open on time is to have vacuum pull it back.

I have the Synchronic, great unit. Even if it does stay open during idle.

 

any synchronic that i have see in person (3 seperate units) were not hanging open it idle. both ssqv's that i own, one china, and one hks version 2 do not hang open either whatsoever. if it was supposed to hang open at idle, a filter would be included and the adjustment instructions would not tell you to adjust it until the valve is shut at idle... give me a break

 

1st gen DSM's stay open at idle, nothin wrong with that, oh yeah and i now have a Type RS i like it, wish it was just alittle louder but i kinda like it quiet

 

1g DSM's are recirculation valves which plumb the air to and from the air filter pipe so it is all clean air, and there is no issue.

 

another bit of advice that I would suggest is to buy a dsm, wrx, or srt4 bov flange to weld to your pipe, and do not us a bov specific flange. this way down the road if you want to switch bov brands, all you have to do is buy the bov for a wrx instead of universal and it will bolt on rather than having to cut and weld flanges. I get annoyed by the same noise and i have 3 valves, ssqv, sard r2d2, and an apexi that I alternate every 6 months or so.

 

my ebay type S at 20psi worked the same as it did at 10psi. i have the real one now[only b/c i sold the old setup] and it works just the same. only issue i saw with them is the diaphragm going bad...easy fix.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by oneludesol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any synchronic that i have see in person (3 seperate units) were not hanging open it idle. both ssqv's that i own, one china, and one hks version 2 do not hang open either whatsoever. if it was supposed to hang open at idle, a filter would be included and the adjustment instructions would not tell you to adjust it until the valve is shut at idle... give me a break</TD></TR></TABLE>

I didn't say the SSQVs stayed open, I just said they weren't very good.

And yes, the Synchronic BOVs are open at idle by design. You can hook them up so that they are closed when at idle, but they will never open.

Quoted directly from Synapse Engineering Forums, statement made by the designer.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Synchronic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Problem #3: Design a BOV that would stay shut under high vacuum Something told me not to worry about this too much until later. When I first started to test the prototypes of the design, I couldn't get the valve to stay shut under heavy vacuum. When it would be shut at idle, the BOV wouldn't open. And when it would be open at idle, it would work perfectly between gears. I kept fighting it and fighting it, until I finally gave up and conceded to the design. Little did I know later that this was one of those discoveries of serendipity. Beta testers began to report better throttle response. What? I started to look at how that worked and, guess what? It makes sense. By bypassing the restriction of the turbo, intercooler piping and all the surface area of the intercooler, you do get better throttle response when coming off of vacuum. And they also started to report better fuel economy. ? So testing on the dyno started to show that cars were able to hold the same RPM and wheel speed with less horsepower and torque. So this just isn't a "defective" feature to fight, but instead embrace. Instead of going for the ricer noise that we all secretly long for, we need instead to re-circulate the BOV inlet/discharge and run a cone filter to get the noise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Reference Link : http://synapseengineering.com/...=30.0

The BOVs are generally used for recirculated MAF cars, as the Honda aftermarket is but a fraction of the entire BOV aftermarket. You get a recirculating fitting and it is recommended IN THE INSTRUCTIONS to get a filter that will fit on it for any atmosphere vented cars.

I really don't see the big deal here, you go to Autozone and pay $3.54 for a filter and toss it on the end of it, or you just leave it open because well... it isn't that big of a deal.

Either way, OP, reguardless of this side arguement I would suggest straying away from the Type RS. Mine couldn't hold more than 14psi and I ended up going with the Synchronic piece which is the only BOV I'll probably ever use.