i bought a 90 crx si with a b18a1 swap tonite. im not picking it up until tomorow so i cant do much. when the car starts, it has a freakin crazy idle. it surges from prolly 1200 to 1500 very fast over and over. if i give it only a little throttle, it doesnt want to rev up it does the idle thing. once it hits about 3000 its like it runs perfect. the wiring is a MESS on it. it supposibly has a chip, has intake exhaust. the o2 sensor is not hooked up, the egr valve is not hooked up. it is throwing codes(obviously) so would the o2 sensor and egr valve make it run like total crap?? i couldnt pass up the deal for 600 bucks. full b18 swap, complete exhaust with spare racing exhaust, it has skunk2 racing springs and shocks with a brand new spare set of coilovers.
i took it for a quick ride and the thing pulled awesome so the motor is set

 

the wiring harness was cut to ***** so was it maybe converted to obd1?? it has an adapter peice at the ecu that i swa. b18a1 engines are supposed to be plugnplay i thought thats why im think maybe its an obd1 motor plz lemme know

 

definately install an O2 sensor and a EGR valve first.

the idle issue could be a vacuum leak, the FITV or the IACV.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxricer66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">obd1 motor </TD></TR></TABLE>

whats wrong with obd1 i would be


and the motor can go either way its the wiring that dictates your OBD

 

there are no connections for the erg valve and o2 sensor, im confused.... it is cut all to junk, i found one sensor behing the intake maniflod on the block that is not pluged in. ca i have a complete wiring harness made form montech on here?? sounds like sumthing i want to do. also just found my crx has power windows(aftermarket)

 

grab another obd1 harness and hook it up. connect the o2 and the egr, if its not that check the tps and for vacuum leaks.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crxricer66 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> ca i have a complete wiring harness made form montech on here?? sounds like sumthing i want to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah a new harness would probably save you alot of trouble if your is all hacked up.

I though I heard that they make an already "tucked" harness too.

 

the obd1 harbess does not just hook up man, i wish it were that simple. i really have not seen a wiring harness so messy before. i went to check the car out and a fuse blew twice because it was grounding out. i pulled the carpet up where the ecu is and there were 5 bare wires i think. plus half of the ones that were cut in the enigne bay were not taped up or anything. the injector resistor box is still there so it must be obd0 injectors too??? which means they are only 190ccs and b series are 240cc. there is a spare set of injectors in the car so thats what im thinkin.

 

the p72 ecu is a vtec gsr ecu.... that would be throwin one of the codes right?? the ecu has a chip in it, it has a sticker on the ecu from a shop somewhere i dont remeber but i dont think i should have the p72..

 

ok so i have an obd1 motor in my car so i think im gonna have montech make me a conversion harness. i just had him make one for my crx mpfi swap and it was amazing. one more thing that is weird is the gsr p72 chipped ecu with a non vtec motor. is it possible to delete vtec but still get the timing and fuel curves where vtec is supposed to engage, thats the only logical thing that could happen....

 

any ideas??

 

heres the egr valve not hooked up, and o2 sensor not hooked. also when it hits 1500 rpms, it hits almost a mini launch control just watch and you will see. any suggestions help!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BW0yfQU7gzU

 

its a new day, any suggestions??

 

i found the two pronge oil pressure switch was not hooked up today, so i had to hook that up but i still got cel. the cel is on even without the car running. the egr valve and the o2 sensor is not hooked up, could this cause the solid cel?? plz sum1 throw some suggestions out.

 

your p72 ecu should be fine as long as it has the right maps chipped on it.

If you are getting a solid CEL you may have a bad ecu, or maybe the chip is the problem. do you have another ECU to test?
Have you cleared the codes by disconecting the battery?

and definatly hook up all the sensors.

 

i dont have another ecu to test unfortuanetley. i havent cleared the codes either good idea. im just wondering, will the egr valve cause a solid cel?? i know o2 sensor doesnt.

 

To my knowlage a solid CEL is the ECU only.

I assume you are jumping the service connector right.

 

i think we are thinking different. im talking when i turn my key on and the fuel pump primes, the cel should go away after, well it stays on even when the cars not running.

 

are you obd1 or obd0?
when you check the code does the ecu blink or does the gauge cluster?

BTW when codes flash for too long they get stuck in the ecu. reset it

 

i havent "checked" the codes cuz i cant find the peice to jumper. i know its up under the glove box, but my glove box is out and i cant find it. im obd1 by the way.

 

Okay you need to find the jumper wires. trace the wires from the ecu if you have to
without jumping them you will always get a "solid" CEL.

 

where are the wires on the ecu that lead to it. a b or c plug any idea?? my dd rex is sitting rite in the open this one is not. i searched for prolly half an hour today but no luck. anyways would the egr valve make the cel be on even without the car running?? im thinking it would because its not completeing the circuit right??

 

The check engine light comes on when you move the key to the "on" position and the fuel pump primes, it should shut off after that. However if the ECU is storing codes, it will stay lit.

Now if you mean you pull the key out and the light is on, no that shouldnt happen.

Try checking around the passenger side shock tower in the engine bay for your jumper plug.

 

awesome you just solved my prob. i remeber it is in the engine bay im gonna go clear the codes and then if they are still there then i will pull them. does someone have the code diagram??

 

heres the deal. i got the idle problem gone. i am throwing a code for iat sensor so im thinking just replace it?? i tryed to but i cant get to the screw on the iat sensor. i got one off but the other one i cant get with a screw driver because its rusted and there is not enough room for vice grips