so today i made a trip to the you-pull-it yard and found myself a set of rear disks on a 92-95 civic 4-door with ABS.

i have a 99 civic ex. no ABS and drums in the rear. as far as i know, everything should bolt up but i will need a prop valve from something with rear disks and no ABS. as for cleaning up the catch i got, im going to repack the bearings and get new pars/rotors. other than that i'm looking for some suggestions

i dont know if it should rebuild the calipers or just use them for cores on a new pair.

the bushings look shot so i wanna replace them as well, any suggestions? they look pressed in.

lastly, the ABS sensor. its coming off, but should i leave the ABS ring in there?

thanks guys

 

how much was it?

 

i got it for 75 bucks. the pads look new, but im definatly getting new rotors and rebuild kits for the calipers are only 18 bucks each since i work at the honda parts counter

 

sounds like you got yourself a deal

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by socallmechris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got it for 75 bucks. the pads look new, but im definatly getting new rotors and rebuild kits for the calipers are only 18 bucks each since i work at the honda parts counter</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well for working at the parts counter at honda you sure make some odd statments and questions.
1st off the rear bearings are sealed units the only way to repack them is to replace the rear hub bearing and all.
2nd you are better off replacing the rear calipers you should be able to get them cheep if you work at the parts counter! There are a lot of parts and peaces in the rear caliper for the ebrake mech.
3rd hope you got the ebrake cables because the ones that are on the car will not work with the rear disc.
4th If you are asking about any of the bushings in the control arm or trailing arm they are pressed in. But then again you should already know this and have a good source for all the parts you need and even access to a ton of good service techs that can steer you in the right direction.
Good luck

 

yeah, when i posted the first time i was not at work so i could not look. oddly enough, cost on oem stuff is usually higher than retail for aftermarket. i got the ebrake cables off the car, so ill be good as far as that goes. i think energy suspention makes a bushing set for this, but its probobly gonna be a pretty penny. any other companys make nice ones? i can use the press at work so taking them out and reinstalling the new ones shouldnt be too bad

 

energy suspentions full kit is not to bad you should be able to find it for under 150 that will replace all but the rear trailing arm bushings. Get the oem they have more flex in them allowing the rear suspention to work correctly. Yes the press at work will make your life a lot easyer. plan on spending the better part of the day pressing out the old bushings and intalling the new ones. The nice thing about the enery suspention is that most of the bushings a 2 pieces so you do not have to press them back in and make sure to use a lot lube on the new bushings to keep them from making noise

 

where was the you-pull-it yard you went to??.. i been trying to find one nearby to take a trip to.

 

it was "harry's-you-pull-it" in allentown, pa. it was about 45 min from my house. they have it split to 2 different yards; import and domestic. the import side was not too big, but had plenty of cars, a good % were hondas. you can PM me for directions if you want, its really easy to find.

 

You may want to change out your prop valve to a 4040 prop valve. The one from a 99 Civic Si works perfect. I have done this swap myself and am very happy with the results. GL!

 

Harry's main yard in hazleton is a lot bigger and their inport section is over half the size of the place. You do have to get there at the right time the cars do get stripped really fast

 

why dont you just resurface the rotors?

 

i was thinking about that, but the rotors are pretty rusty. i found a set of drilled and slotted rotors front and rear for like 200 bucks. and my fronts are almost worn down all the way.

 

i have read that cross drill rotors are not good for daily driving since they will easily crack. if you're gonna dd the car i would just get slotted

 

i have only see one set of rotors crack, and they only cracked cuz the kid drove like he had a race car. like every road was on the track. that same kid also turned them blue a few times i saw..... dumb.

as for me, ive been driving like a grandma lately with the exception of a few of my favorite twisty roads once in a while. i think d/s rotors will be fine.

 

thanks socallmechris. i actually was planning to take a trip up there but didnt know if there was a good you-pull it yard closer.... i just needa plan out a day now to take the time to drive down there.

 

hey man just rebuild the calipers, i did it myself, just need a pair of snap ring pliers, and those are cheap at harbor freight, just keep track of all of the pieces and where they are located! it's not that hard! also you can just reuse your stock hub bearings, i'm pretty sure they will interchange, and you can also use your stock trailing arms so you don't have to replace bushings unless you want to go through all of that! the spindle part will actually unbolt( 4 torx bolts and 1 large lock nut on the back of the trailing arm) from the trailing arm and will interchange and wont affect your alignment! so on that note i've done it that way and put all of my faith in your ability to do it also, good luck on your decision and to me this seems easier than pulling the complete trailing arms and doesn't affect alignment! best of luck man!

 

wow, i havent even concidered the hub swap. im pretty sure im just going to rebuild the calipers. thanks for the info!

 

I just want to chim in on the whole cross drilled cracking thing. I can tell you from experience. I had cross drilled on my civic for over 6 years and auto crossed with them for 3 of the years. I never once had any problem with the rotor cracking. Does it happen yes sometimes esp when severly abused under hevy braking conditions (road racing). I will say this on the rear of the car they have always been noisey they make a scuffing sound all the time. It might be because they are non vented rotors in the rear or that I have a hatch but I have read several people asking about the same type of noise after install.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by socallmechris &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im going to repack the bearings and get new pars rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>

sealed bearings no repack like a f150,

 

Drilling rotors in any way compromises their structure. I've seen a few pics/posts of them breaking/cracking, whatever. And I also read here on H-T about their purpose not being aided at all by being slotted or whatever. Anyways, you got quite a deal there, its a big upgrade on braking. Good luck!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PI$TOL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

sealed bearings </TD></TR></TABLE>

good call

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Juan_Mitosis &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Drilling rotors in any way compromises their structure. I've seen a few pics/posts of them breaking/cracking, whatever. And I also read here on H-T about their purpose not being aided at all by being slotted or whatever. </TD></TR></TABLE>

i disagree . it really depends on how they are designed and manufactured. if the rotor is made to have the holes, the structural support will be placed correctly, if it is just a rotor thats drilled and not necessarily designed to be, there will naturally be weak point and areas prone to failure.

slots do make a huge difference in your breaking. any extended period of heavy breaking (or even a quick stop from nigh speed) will have a tendency to glaze pads over, reducing their ability to stop you. the slots shave off the glazed portion of the pad, keeping there grip through out the life of the pads (though that life is reduced from the removal of material)

 

drilled+slotted

 

looking to do that to my car

 

good stuff
thanks