auto to manual
not reely u still have to run the clutch lines slave cylinder master cylinder and wire up some micelanius wires from the engine bay inside the car and a whole new setup would cost me over $3000 and i just dont have that kind of money
hey if you end up doing that swap. lemme know. cuhz i have a 94 hatch. and i have my 5speed tranny sitting in my garage and i'm trying to do the same. idk how to do that crap man. i need to find someone.
its very easy look in the FAQ.. ive done it my self infact if someone brings me all the parts i doit for $350 bu i live in hbg pa pm me if anyone is interested.
I recently did a automatic to manul conversion in my 96 Civic EX while doing a GSR swap. I am new here, but I would like to dispell some myths about this process. First off, it is NOT more cost affective to buy standard transmission car, IF you are good at tracking down parts. If you are not swaping and engine...then you probably should consider finding an 5/6 speed car.
Anyways back to the parts:
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch master cylinder w/ reservior
Hydraulic lines
Slave cylinder
Transmission (no Shyt)
Hasport Auto to Manual Mount ($100)
Shift linkage, support, and shifter
Various Interior components (optional)
Pedal Assembly
YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP YOU STEERING COLUMN TO PUT MANUAL PEDALS IN YOUR CAR. How do I know? Because in the midst of getting my swap I tinkered with the idea of switching the "pedal" itself. The pedal bolts to the pedal assembly with on bolt (17mm I think). Out of curiousity, I removed the automatic brake pedal:
Remove the pin to connect the Brake Booster to the brake pedal (5 mins).
Remove the bolt that secures the pedal to the pedal assembly (10-15 mins).
Remove the brake pedal and compare it to the donar assembly/pedal.
**The upper portion of the pedal assembly is IDENTICAL between the manual and automatic assemblies.
Bolt the new pedal into assembly in the car (10-15 mins).
Replace the pin for the Brake Booster with a NEW pins on appropriate size bolt with locking nut.
The only issue....This may only be true because I used a DC integra pedal. The brake light switch is mounted in a different position on the civic as the integra.
Solution_Take a flat flexible piece of metal (approximately 0.75" x 3" and drill a hole on the top. Next remove the rubber stop on the integra pedal (the piece that touches) the brake switch. Bolt the medal plate into that hole and bend the medal piece as necessary so that it appropriately touches the brake switch. Adjust the brake switch as necessary.
Clutch Pedal.
This is 100% bolt in! Finding appropriate hardware in advance, this will take you nor more than 20 mins. Especially since the clutch reservior will be empty.
Shift linkage. I
f you are doing a b-series swap in a d-series equiped car, then this is a must buy anyway, right? There are markings where the linkage has to be drilled (I am sure that has been discussed on this site). remove the automatic junk (dont get too sloppy). Some of the plugs will have to be modified.
Wiring/Cruise
Connect the pink wire to the black wire on the main auto shifter mechanism plug. Done! Remember the car has to think that you are in park for it to start. The car should be wired to beleve that it is constantly in park. You connect two wires and done (get a skematic). Cruise will still deactivate with the brake pedal.
ECU
If you are doing a swap, chances are you are replacing the ECU. The automatic plug simply will not be used...
That's it!!!
Extra Cost (this is based off of what I paid).
Clutch lines, pedal assembly, clutch master cylinder...$80
Shift linkage/support/bushing/shifter for B-series (if doing a swap this is required anyway) $75
Hasport mount $120 (ebay)
sheet metal to cover automatic shift mechanism hole $5
ECU (if doing a swap this is required anyway) $50-$125
Auto to Manual conversions aren't rediculously hard. When doing a swap everything is being pulled out of the car anyways, right? I have rambled on, but I have done this before and my car is proof. I am not a mechanic, but I could do all of the modification to make the car a stick with no issues.
Anyways back to the parts:
Clutch pedal assembly
Clutch master cylinder w/ reservior
Hydraulic lines
Slave cylinder
Transmission (no Shyt)
Hasport Auto to Manual Mount ($100)
Shift linkage, support, and shifter
Various Interior components (optional)
Pedal Assembly
YOU DO NOT NEED TO DROP YOU STEERING COLUMN TO PUT MANUAL PEDALS IN YOUR CAR. How do I know? Because in the midst of getting my swap I tinkered with the idea of switching the "pedal" itself. The pedal bolts to the pedal assembly with on bolt (17mm I think). Out of curiousity, I removed the automatic brake pedal:
Remove the pin to connect the Brake Booster to the brake pedal (5 mins).
Remove the bolt that secures the pedal to the pedal assembly (10-15 mins).
Remove the brake pedal and compare it to the donar assembly/pedal.
**The upper portion of the pedal assembly is IDENTICAL between the manual and automatic assemblies.
Bolt the new pedal into assembly in the car (10-15 mins).
Replace the pin for the Brake Booster with a NEW pins on appropriate size bolt with locking nut.
The only issue....This may only be true because I used a DC integra pedal. The brake light switch is mounted in a different position on the civic as the integra.
Solution_Take a flat flexible piece of metal (approximately 0.75" x 3" and drill a hole on the top. Next remove the rubber stop on the integra pedal (the piece that touches) the brake switch. Bolt the medal plate into that hole and bend the medal piece as necessary so that it appropriately touches the brake switch. Adjust the brake switch as necessary.
Clutch Pedal.
This is 100% bolt in! Finding appropriate hardware in advance, this will take you nor more than 20 mins. Especially since the clutch reservior will be empty.
Shift linkage. I
f you are doing a b-series swap in a d-series equiped car, then this is a must buy anyway, right? There are markings where the linkage has to be drilled (I am sure that has been discussed on this site). remove the automatic junk (dont get too sloppy). Some of the plugs will have to be modified.
Wiring/Cruise
Connect the pink wire to the black wire on the main auto shifter mechanism plug. Done! Remember the car has to think that you are in park for it to start. The car should be wired to beleve that it is constantly in park. You connect two wires and done (get a skematic). Cruise will still deactivate with the brake pedal.
ECU
If you are doing a swap, chances are you are replacing the ECU. The automatic plug simply will not be used...
That's it!!!
Extra Cost (this is based off of what I paid).
Clutch lines, pedal assembly, clutch master cylinder...$80
Shift linkage/support/bushing/shifter for B-series (if doing a swap this is required anyway) $75
Hasport mount $120 (ebay)
sheet metal to cover automatic shift mechanism hole $5
ECU (if doing a swap this is required anyway) $50-$125
Auto to Manual conversions aren't rediculously hard. When doing a swap everything is being pulled out of the car anyways, right? I have rambled on, but I have done this before and my car is proof. I am not a mechanic, but I could do all of the modification to make the car a stick with no issues.
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you can do it that way or just buy the auto to manual mount. We just ordered the mount and did it that way it was a little easyer and we did not have weld anything and it works fine.
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AnitRiceSuperStar
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 1, 2006 08:31 PM




