http://hasport.com/shop/produc...d=179

Says you can use a Willwood CMC... they are like $50 and come in three sizes... .625" .700" .750"

Anyone know what the stock bore is for a EG CMC?

Either way, I'm wondering if anyone has used this setup before on an EF... Looks like it's a new product. I imagine the only other thing you'd need is a custom stainless clutch line? Maybe a custom hardline to near the CSC and then a stainless?

Anyway, just looking for discussion about this piece. I want to go LS boost (non-vtak at first) and I am going to want to do it on a hydro B18B. It would be nice to be able to run fully hydraulic with no cable hackjob connecting bs.

 

yeah i want to know if it works also

 

that's a peace of ****. it's still cable, then runs to a mount that holds the "hydro style master cylinder"

 

you want the real deal like me, i take it. which would be a whole new clutch assembly that uses the Hydro Cylinder. This would have to be done with some custom fab, mending a 92-95 clutch pedal to a 88-91 pedal assemb.

 

hmm... that's interested. I assumed it somehow attached to the stock EF pedal. The cable is still involved...

Don't you think if you got one of the larger bore CMCs it might feel better than the cable slave cylinder conversion hasport makes? I'm not sure. I figure that for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction, so if the cable is anywhere in the equation it would still have the downfalls...

Disappointing...

I actually called a guy about a CRX he was selling.. He told me he had it converted to hydro clutch pedal. I asked him how he did it, and he said he bought a EG pedal and welded it in... ???

I never saw the car so I can't confirm that, but I had always heard the swap wasn't possible because there isn't room in the EF engine bay for a clutch master cylinder...


Guess I'll go back to searching. All I want is a real hydraulic clutch pedal. It doesn't seem like it'd be *that* hard.

What if you had a VERY short clutch cable custom made (6" or so) and mounted the willwood somewhere... and make sure there were no bends in the cable. I'm sure that would feel *way* better than using it with the long cable unsecured.

/ramblings

 

if i had a welder in hand and a empty firewall i'm sure it would be pretty easy to fab-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by http://www.theoldone.com/articles/La...rrys_Civic.htm &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">For everyone familiar with the EF Civics, you know there's no room for a second master cylinder on the firewall due to the size of the brake booster and the proximity of the read of the shock-tower, so my only option was to mount a master cylinder under the dash. Finding a reverse-mount master cylinder that would fit was the next step. After measuring a stock master cylinder bore (approximately 3/4"), I selected a unit from CNC Brakes. The assembly arrived here complete with aluminum pedal and work began to mount it.

I removed the pedal assembly from the inner firewall, cut the clutch portion off and welded a couple angle steel pieces in to locate and mount the new master cylinder.





As can be seen above, the aluminum pedal / master cylinder assembly is held in place with three bolts. I cut off the pedal that came with the assembly and bolted my old clutch pedal to it. The pedal is positioned in the exact position that it was with the stock assembly in place, so I wouldn't have to get used to something new.



With the new assembly in the car, I decided to reinforce it with a steel tab I welded to the front base of the dash just under the windshield. It should be obvious from the picture that I had to eliminate the driver-side air duct, but that was a small sacrifice to make. Also note the tab that connects the return spring, and the tapped hole in the front of it for the upward pedal stop. The neoprene line that runs to the under-hood (Integra) fluid reservoir is visible, as is the braider steel line that runs from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder on the transmission. I acquired this piece from Stan at Fast-Turbo.com and it worked out very well. We also split some clear tubing and used it as a cover for the line to vibration wouldn't cause any chafing with wires that might be in close proximity.

After driving the combination I was really impressed. The clutch was smooth as silk and the pedal action was also very good. I run a more conventional twin disk clutch in my ITR and it only requires about 1"-1.5" total pedal travel from all the way in to to all the way out. The Civic. with it's new set up required about 2"-2.5", which was like stock. In an effort to lessen the difference between the two, I decided to order another master cylinder with a slightly larger (7/8") bore. After installation, the difference was worth it. Push the pedal about 1.5" and the clutch is fully disengaged (like the ITR's) and the action is really sweet.

Right now, I couldn't be more pleased with the combination. The clutch is smooth as can be, and it bites hard on launches and shifts. The new Quaife is making the car go straight, and I can come off turns with tires blazing in a very predictable fashion. Today I have to say that while the car is "different", and it's beginning to get back to being as much fun to drive as it was with the little blower motor.....and that's a tough combination to beat!</TD></TR></TABLE>

just adding info to this thread

 

so looks like i will be emailing larry

 

ya that is definitely the best info I have seen on the subject. It seems it might be the only real good way to do it.

I just wonder why someone hasn't made up a CNC adapter for a piece like that... Seems like you could make a few bux off it.

 

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40966
Found that on K20a.org this morning. Look about half way down the page. That guy (pb16b) works at suja1motoring and will fab up that setup for $350 plus your pedals and a CMC.

 

great info!! just adding this link that I found in that thread

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40747

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dem0nk1d &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that's a peace of ****. it's still cable, then runs to a mount that holds the "hydro style master cylinder"
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually it works really good. I have one on my car, a 90 CRX with B16B engine/trans. I fabbed a simple bracket to mount it to the front of my trans and made up a new hard line for it. It uses a stock Honda master cylinder so it's correctly sized too. Don't knock it till you've tried it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Actually it works really good. I have one on my car, a 90 CRX with B16B engine/trans. I fabbed a simple bracket to mount it to the front of my trans and made up a new hard line for it. It uses a stock Honda master cylinder so it's correctly sized too. Don't knock it till you've tried it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

What is the pedal feel like compared to an EG?

 

the only issue i see is your making more movable and breakable parts.

 

I called CNC brakes today. They informed me that people adapted their master cylinders to cable clutch pedal assembly all the time. Apparently there are a few ways you can do it:

1) Just get a CMC for $80 and fab everything up

2) Get a "conversion kit" for $198 - which includes the master cylinder of your choice and a VARIETY of different mounting brackets and parts that make it *easier* to mate to an OEM cable unit.

3) Get a CMC with a aluminum pedal assy for $195 as showed in theoldone.com writeup I posted.

They told me option 2 would certainly be my best bet for my application... although the process would be almost completely different of theoldones.

They also suggested to purchase from McKenzies; CNC brakes told me that was their best/largest/cheapest reseller.

 

wow...i might be doing a full hydro conversion soon.

 

so you still need to do some custom mounting to get the clutch pedal mounted correct? give me some links at what your looking at please.... so i have an idea.

 

http://www.cncbrakes.com/hcpp....eries=

 

here's something for you.... LOL this place is right next to my house. Maybe i can bring them a stock pedal assembly and work with them to do a ef conversion kit.

just looked at the address.. right now and mouth almost hit the keybrd.

 

There's also a one thats complete http://www.innovativemounts.co...41001

 

It's a bit more cash, but its a simple bolt on process, and no digging under a dash for the
master cylinder


Modified by hammergunner at 8:37 PM 5/1/2008

 

btw a new post just posted, this guy is running a k20 swap and did his own hydro conversion
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2158379

 

that's not what we want. we want a true hydro setup. none of this cable to hydro ****.
right guys?!

 

i guess, some people take the difficult way, instead of the smart way.

"IF" you have a welder. Are a good welder to trust your welds. have all the parts from the donor car. and are willing to start cutting holes in your car. Go right ahead some people have there ways, other have theres.

Plus if you do start cutting up your car, you can truly say "This is custom"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Taiden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

What is the pedal feel like compared to an EG?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a 97 Civic DX for a daily driver and it feels exactly the same.