cr vtec opinions please
i know this topic has been done over and over but i have searched and searched and found no results to the questions i have. i have a jdm b20b long block in perfect condition. the head has never been off the block. i have a gsr swap in my civic right now that had a bad block... cr vtec. so it seems i went into this with out doing my research. questions i have
1. I have been told that if i put my gsr head on the b20b block that valve to piston clearance is very minimal. if i run anything over itr or ctr cams (which i have skunk 2 tuner series stage 1's) that i will bend every valve i got and maybe more when vtec hits for the first time. and even if i run my stock gsr cams that i wont be able to get the compression very high even with flat valves, shaved head and 2 layer gasket. if this is true do i?
a. try and mill the stock pistons to accept a little more valve clearance to be able to shave the head, run my cams, and proceed to beat the hell out of it with out any problems
b. replace the pistons with aftermarket forged ones. ie cp, je, aries with a grand total c/r of about 12:1
c. and if i do that do i need to bore the block to 84.5mm or could i get away with stock bore because of the good condition of the motor?
2. what can i do to help keep the motor reliable at higher revs.
any and all input on the subject would be great. please dont tell me to search. i have looked all over the place and all i can find is idiots who cant figur out how to make vtec work or want to know what kind of power there 2.0l vtec monster will make. i just want to squeeze what little power i can out of this with out breaking the bank
Thanks
Joe
1. I have been told that if i put my gsr head on the b20b block that valve to piston clearance is very minimal. if i run anything over itr or ctr cams (which i have skunk 2 tuner series stage 1's) that i will bend every valve i got and maybe more when vtec hits for the first time. and even if i run my stock gsr cams that i wont be able to get the compression very high even with flat valves, shaved head and 2 layer gasket. if this is true do i?
a. try and mill the stock pistons to accept a little more valve clearance to be able to shave the head, run my cams, and proceed to beat the hell out of it with out any problems
b. replace the pistons with aftermarket forged ones. ie cp, je, aries with a grand total c/r of about 12:1
c. and if i do that do i need to bore the block to 84.5mm or could i get away with stock bore because of the good condition of the motor?
2. what can i do to help keep the motor reliable at higher revs.
any and all input on the subject would be great. please dont tell me to search. i have looked all over the place and all i can find is idiots who cant figur out how to make vtec work or want to know what kind of power there 2.0l vtec monster will make. i just want to squeeze what little power i can out of this with out breaking the bank
Thanks
Joe
well first things first.. a stock gsr head on a stock b20b block u should have no problem with piston to valve clearance... but if your getting upgraded cams u must use upgraded valvetrain so u dont drop a valve and the bore on the block is fine u dont have to touch that specially if it was a low mileage motor like those jdm b20b's... thats the same longblock i bought and now i have that block in my b20v setup also... and this is just me but if your gonna buy pistons it would be nice to bore it out to 84.5mm just to get them cylinder walls nice and also needs a hone.... to make it realiable for high revs all u need in the block is arp rod bolts and shot-peen or recondition the stock pr4 rods stick with the stock rods because pr4 rods take a beating when it comes to all motor
Modified by Midori Green at 6:25 PM 4/27/2008
Modified by Midori Green at 6:25 PM 4/27/2008
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Scubster
All Motor / Naturally Aspirated
12
Oct 21, 2005 11:12 PM



