i did my first mpfi conversion today....yada yada....onto my problem. start up and runs like *** right away.. runs good if im accelerating, but if im mainting any rpm its like im hitting a slow rev limiter...the codes that are flashing *ithink* are 7, 10, and 14 but idk if im reading the flashes correctly. ive searched..i need this thing to b working so i can go to work tomorow.

*d15b2 dpfi to mpfi. 1990 crx dx

 

This link might help you with your codes.

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=682412

 

vacums are hooked wrong. i recently did it to my rex and i had the two vacums from the map sensor wrong. right now i have the two hoses together on a y peice and it goes onto the one on the top middle of the manifold, right behind the injectors. the one on the tb is capped and it runs awesome now. i used a crx si manifold by the way good luck man

 

i got know what the codes mean. ok now it dosnt start at all just keeps "backfiring in the exhaust, i dont get it because it ran for a good 10 min i shut it off start it again and, now this?
So the 2 lines that go to the map area should T into one line...ok, does the hose that goes to the carbon canister,( black round canister) goes to the larger port on the Tb? and i have 3 round plugs now that all fit on the IAC, and the IAT i think,(on the drive side IM runner), i idk what the 3rd one goes to....or what plug goes were....one of them is green..


Modified by Crx_Civic at 8:09 AM 4/28/2008

 

bump, for keeping this rex on the road. BTW thanks for the help so far

 

well, u have the iacv and iat mixed up. u may also have the map and tps mixed up as well, or its possible that u didnt repin the tps sensor like ur supposed to for the mpfi swap. u muct swap the 2 outside wires on the plug that goes to the tps. so once u do that and swap the plugs going to ur iacv and iat then the cel should be gone and the car should run good as long as teh dizzy is set close to where it should be.

 

I used the tps plug off my Si harness so i didnt think i need to switch the wires.

 

ok, what guide did u fallow to do the swap? u cant just plug in a si engine harness and be done, there are still things that need o be done. what year is ur car and what year is the harness u are trying to use? and either way u would need to switch the 2 outer wires on the tps plug.

 

My car is a 90 CRX DX, i printed 3 writeups, to make sure i got it right...and i didnt just use the whole harness, i just used some of the connectors. tps, distributor, injectors.

 

went out tonight and it started right up , idles fine, has a hesitation when you accelorate and still acts like a rev limiter if you try to maintain RPM. I also hooked up the MAP vac line up to the maifold vs the tb, do i have to get a vac T and put the purge selonid vac line on the manifold also or can that go on the tb? I really appreciate your inputs and help guys so dont give up on me now.

 

did u get rid of the cel? the codes are going to be the whole problem with it running bad, especially that tps. if u didnt know why u need to swap the tps wires around on the plug, its because the tps from the dx operates in the oposite direction of the si one, think of it as the difference between ur right hand and left, or like a mirror image. hope that helps some. if the cel's are all taken care of try just adjusting the dizzy towards the fire wall some, if it gets worse just turn it towards the rad a little. the hesitation could just be bad ignition timing.

 

slow rev limiter at partial throttle sounds like the eacv isnt pluged in get rid of all the chek eng. an go from ther, just wut ive learned from past mpfi conversions.

 

anyone have a pic of the Intake manifold, and most of its compnents that are somewhat labled....im 99% sure on most of it but a pic would be good.

 

EACV- idle air control valve?

 

If there is anyone out there.....what will happen if the 2 white dist. wires are backwards?..i switched out the tps wires, and now the rev limiter problem is gone. ii got 9-10-14 codes. and the hesitation still........at least bump this page

 

im not using the "valve" that is for the charcoal canister cuz it was no good when i got it. i have the the small hoses from the map sensor t'ed together and it hooks onto the part that is usually for the charcoal "valve". then the small one on the tb is capped shut and the car runs flawless. i see if i can get pics cuz its a shot in the ball park without them

 

UPDATE: i was mesin around with it today, moved some connectors around, and got rid of my cels. BUT the only way i can get it to start is to have the distriutor turned all the way twards the fire wall, and even then it barely starts, but after it get started it runs good i can move the distributor all the way back and forth and it stays running. still has a miss when you try to accelorate but i think it might need a cap & rotor. I need to get a timing lite so i can figure out more. Any answers to what happens if the 2 white wires are reversed?

 

Hey Crx civic

first I have a 90 dx converting to a 90 si dpfi to mpfi

Question is the injector box has five wires correct 4 black & 1 red

everywhere it stated is to connect the 2 dx connector yellow/black wires into the injectors yellow/black wire do they mean into the red wire?

i having a hard time with this thanks for any help

 

If ur talking about the "injector resistor box" then no, i tihnk 4 red and one black and one yellow or something? but dont take my word i just did my first one 2. all i can tell u is find a good recomended write up, dont get discourageed becuz you will feel like saying F**k it. and plan on driving something else for a week or more while u do it. TAKE YOUR TIME!

 

how much power did you gain est. also how much was your gas affected

 

havent had a chance to drive it yet but if free revs a lot stonger. idk about gas iether but i would think it would +. and this car isnt and will never be worth dynoing so hp numbers...idk