I went and got her a short street tune today at the dyno. I only had cash for one hour of seat time, so I had to work fast. I am learning to use my Hondata S300 on my own and tried my best given the short time frame. I know the numbers are quite low but up to the end of the session, she just kept making power. With more time, I believe I can squeeze a 220-230whp/155-160wtq. The best run was 210/150 but I didn't get to load that file from the operator's laptop.

 

You should just pay someone to tune for you.

 

you gotta learn some how
good luck

 

so what does your setup consist of?

 

Good try. Just keep working with it.

Some suggestions, (1) set vtec lower (2) lean it out to ~13 above 8k.
Work on setting your "vtec window" so you are in vtec at 4800 rpm full throttle and at 6000 at 75% throttle.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaraki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should just pay someone to tune for you. </TD></TR></TABLE>
I know that would produce the best numbers but I am very interested in learning how to tune, and try to take as much info from the hondata website and here to the dyno shop .

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaraki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You should just pay someone to tune for you. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why knock this guy at least he's learning..
This is how most of us started out and then had some assclown like you say "take the easy way out"
20 dollars says you couldn't do half the **** he does, stfu.

Take this plot as a base from when you started..
You still need to tune gears and get your timing right, 220+whp is very possible maybe even more.. keep reading.. i've helped as well as others about AFRS and timing.. also check pgmfi.org for some help too.

 

Not a bad start
If you really want to tune the car yourself, you need to save lots of money so that you can spend as much time as you need on the dyno. Shoot for a nice flat A/F ratio. Find your ideal VTEC point. Dial in your ignition timing maps. Tune your cam gears. The S300 is ideal for beginners because the interface is so simple and easy to use. I applaud your independent spirit and your willingness to learn

 

fuel, vtec, ignition. Thats my pattern everytime i get on the dyno.

Not bad for the first time. You got pretty lean for a high compression motor at 7500.

go out on a long/abandoned street and do 3rd gear pulls and set a target AFR to 13.0 for datalogging. the s300 unit should be able to tell you how much fuel to take out or how much to remove inorder to obtain a flat AFR. That will save you ALOT of time on the dyno. So you are battling with fueling and you can concentrate on other things which are just as important

 

the funny thing about the A/F ratio is that my wideband in my datalog would say I am runing 13.8 at a particular rpm, and the dyno would read 12.9 at the same rpm. I didn't know whether to go off my new AEM wideband or the tired dyno wideband.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teamdiesel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the funny thing about the A/F ratio is that my wideband in my datalog would say I am runing 13.8 at a particular rpm, and the dyno would read 12.9 at the same rpm. I didn't know whether to go off my new AEM wideband or the tired dyno wideband.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Where is each sensor plumbed, respectively?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where is each sensor plumbed, respectively?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Dynos usually use tailpipe sniffers
and widebands usually plug where the o2 bungs go this is the correct way you should read leaner at a dyno threw a tailpipe then you would reading a wideband..


i'd trust your wideband over the tailpipe sniffer.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Dynos usually use tailpipe sniffers
and widebands usually plug where the o2 bungs go this is the correct way you should read leaner at a dyno threw a tailpipe then you would reading a wideband..


i'd trust your wideband over the tailpipe sniffer.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Kinda what I was getting at.

 

NICE NUMBERS to be the first time looks pretty good try to do the AFR straighter then you adjust the whole map and see what the eingine like every motor is different GOOD LUCK

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NeOh 2ning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NICE NUMBERS to be the first time looks pretty good try to do the AFR straighter then you adjust the whole map and see what the eingine like every motor is different GOOD LUCK </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for that advice Neoh, I will try that at my next visit.

 

.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Combustion Contraption &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Where is each sensor plumbed, respectively?</TD></TR></TABLE>
My wideband is plugged in to my test pipe right after the header's collector. The dyno wideband is clipped at my exhaust muffler. My wideband is reading leaner than the dynos wideband. I just took her for a drive and my wideband is reading 15.2 from vtec to redline on the same tune as above . Should I street tune over the dyno map to get 13.0-13.5 on my wideband. When it reaches the higher rpms especially in 4th gear, the car seems to be drawing back like it is suffercating.

 

The sniffer filter could have been clogged or the unit may have needed to be cleaned.

 

should I street tune the dyno tuned map for 13.0-13.5 using my wideband?

 

I would. Me and my tuner street tune the afr's and try to get as clean of a map as possible and then mess with timing on the dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why knock this guy at least he's learning..
This is how most of us started out and then had some assclown like you say "take the easy way out"
20 dollars says you couldn't do half the **** he does, stfu.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

All you ever do is talk ****. It's like Honda-tech is some sort of outlet for your inner frustrations...

It was a simple suggestion. He spent a lot of $ on the build and figured why not have someone who has experience tuning do it. But I guess that's the easy way out?

Anyway (Teamdiesel) Good luck, you'll definatley see 220+ in some time. S300 is very easy to work with.

 

Best advice i can give every wideband will read different depending on sensor position, maintenance and a lot of different things. Try to street tune to a more safer 12.5-13.0 on the street @ WOT. for ignition ReAD YOUR PLUGS IS YOUR ONLY REAL READING everything else play on dyno this stuff is trial and error theres not going to be the perfect tune from another car or member you have to do it on your own we are here to help

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraType-R &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why knock this guy at least he's learning..
This is how most of us started out and then had some assclown like you say "take the easy way out"
20 dollars says you couldn't do half the **** he does, stfu.

Take this plot as a base from when you started..
You still need to tune gears and get your timing right, 220+whp is very possible maybe even more.. keep reading.. i've helped as well as others about AFRS and timing.. also check pgmfi.org for some help too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i love this guy. u should be my older h-t brotha

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Zaraki &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

All you ever do is talk ****. It's like Honda-tech is some sort of outlet for your inner frustrations...

It was a simple suggestion. He spent a lot of $ on the build and figured why not have someone who has experience tuning do it. But I guess that's the easy way out?

Anyway (Teamdiesel) Good luck, you'll definatley see 220+ in some time. S300 is very easy to work with.</TD></TR></TABLE>
All i ever do is talk ****..
dude.. if you would wake up and smell a queef you'd see i dont "always" talk **** your a moron.. your reply was taken the way it was writen.. if you didn't mean it that way you should have specified..
You didn't..
And as far as i know.. The guy built the car himself why not tune it.. you live and you learn.. he's obviously on the right track he aint blew anything up yet..
i stand by my saying you probably couldn't do half the **** this guy has taken the time to research and learn.. Your the kid who goes out to meets and say i got a 400whp car that i didn't have a hand in, i paid someone to do it for me..build it and tune it.. When someone comes and ask you the specs of your bearings or your compression, what about the duration of your cam and your like i dont know that i'll get back to you, makes you look like an idiot you know that?
Or your one of those kids who try to give advice because your " builder" said it was ok to do.. but what if your builder is wrong?? What if the advice you give isn't always right? I never said my advice is 100% Right nobody's on this forum is.. but your reply was stupid, dumb and uncalled for.. This guy wants to learn and your like
"Get someone else to tune it for you" BECAUSE you CANT do it, doesn't mean nobody else can.
Kid you dont know me, or anything about me..
go back under your rock.

 

went to the track tonight and the car is running lean as a modafu--er! I did a test pass in 3rd and the wideband datalogged 15+ AFR straight across the board. This was with the same tune above . As the gears go up the A/F ratio goes up also. 1&2 are crazy and have an a/f of about 12.5, but from third it spikes to 15:1+ and the car just levels out and slows down. I just installed a Walbro 255lph before I went to the dyno, so I don't know if that has somethig to do with it. I ried to increase fuel pressure and fuel percentage in coloums 9&10 , but the damn thing still read 15+ at wot in 3rd&4th. I also have been hearing a constant ticking sound from around my intake manifold ever since I came back from the dyno. It is loud at initial startup and wot runs, but quiets down after long casual driving. I dropped the oil pan and checked all the rod bearings and they are all good. I also checked my valve lash on all my cylinders. Here are my findings (skunk2 stage2 cams)
Cylinder In Ex
#1 .007 .008
#3 .008 .008
#4 .008 .009
#2 .008 .008
what do you guys think is causing that tapping and my fuel problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Teamdiesel &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">went to the track tonight and the car is running lean as a modafu--er! I did a test pass in 3rd and the wideband datalogged 15+ AFR straight across the board. This was with the same tune above . As the gears go up the A/F ratio goes up also. 1&2 are crazy and have an a/f of about 12.5, but from third it spikes to 15:1+ and the car just levels out and slows down. I just installed a Walbro 255lph before I went to the dyno, so I don't know if that has somethig to do with it. I ried to increase fuel pressure and fuel percentage in coloums 9&10 , but the damn thing still read 15+ at wot in 3rd&4th. I also have been hearing a constant ticking sound from around my intake manifold ever since I came back from the dyno. It is loud at initial startup and wot runs, but quiets down after long casual driving. I dropped the oil pan and checked all the rod bearings and they are all good. I also checked my valve lash on all my cylinders. Here are my findings (skunk2 stage2 cams)
Cylinder In Ex
#1 .007 .008
#3 .008 .008
#4 .008 .009
#2 .008 .008
what do you guys think is causing that tapping and my fuel problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>


funny, i sort of had the same noise too.. it sounded like an exhaust leak or a slight knock.. what wristpins and pistons are you using?