ok i just got done with an LS/Vtec conversion, the LS was running fine, i did the head swap, used the golden eagle kit with the head gasket and arp headstuds, i started it up and it was ticking a lil, so i adjusted the valves, then there was no ticking.

a day later i decide to test drive it since i had not driven it yet, as soon as i started driving, it started to tick REAL LOUD and was blowing blue smoke like it was burning lots of oil.


any ideas WTF HAPPENED?

if my head gasket was on upside down would that cause this? because thats the only thing i can think of that couldve went wrong.

 

maybe the valveseals and valve guides might be bad...

 

would that cause ticking? and i had the valve seals replaced when i got the head resurfaced

 

ticking can be from bad LMA's

 

What kind or water pump and timing belt did you use?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by btrim23 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What kind or water pump and timing belt did you use?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i used a GSR timing belt and water pump 22teeth

 

do you have a chipped ecu, i would reccomend one from phearable.net because there is no ecu for an lsvtec or b20vtec i think if your not useing a chipped ecu the timeing map for the one you have could be causeing it not positive though

 

i dont think a chip can cause it to burn oil and tick. but im using a stock p72 ECU

 

stock short block, just unbolted the head and bolted this vtec head on. stock LS oil pump and pickup. 22T water pump with GSR timing belt. resurfaced head with new valve seals. motor was fine before the head swap.

 

well you can try useing a thicker weight oil and the ticking could be detonation due to timing (the timing your ecu is sending out)

 

did you plug the journal on the vtec head??

 

yes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
if my head gasket was on upside down would that cause this? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes. that would most likely cause problems.

 

sounds like you tried building a motor and failed.

If you are burning oil, valve seals (you said they were replaced, but were they done right? who knows), rings are probably bad too, head gasket could be on wrong. who knows.

Did you tap the hole on the head and put the "an" fitting in?

But most like, rings are bad and Lost Motion Assemblies are bad too.

this is what happens when you cut corners.

 

do a compression test and let us know.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92integraVTECgsr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like you tried building a motor and failed.

If you are burning oil, valve seals (you said they were replaced, but were they done right? who knows), rings are probably bad too, head gasket could be on wrong. who knows.

Did you tap the hole on the head and put the "an" fitting in?

But most like, rings are bad and Lost Motion Assemblies are bad too.

this is what happens when you cut corners.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the attitude, but its not my car i just did the work, i told them they should build the lower end but they didnt want to.

a machine shop resurfaced the head and installed the valve seals.

i dont kno how bad lost motion assemblies could be considered cutting corners.

the rings were fine in the motor when it was just a straight LS.

and by 'AN' fitting i believe you mean NPT fitting.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prettylew &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for the attitude, but its not my car i just did the work, i told them they should build the lower end but they didnt want to.

a machine shop resurfaced the head and installed the valve seals.

i dont kno how bad lost motion assemblies could be considered cutting corners.

the rings were fine in the motor when it was just a straight LS.

and by 'AN' fitting i believe you mean NPT fitting. </TD></TR></TABLE>

cutting corners just by slapping a gsr head on a ls. thats gonna be useless unless he plans on boosting.

But if you took the job to build the motor, then you should know what your doing and should clearly state to the owner that you are not responsible for how the motor runs after you put it on. You are just "assembling" everything and not responsible for anything else since the motor was not built right and everything was used.


But if the car is ticking, then that means the LMA's are bad unless something is loose, but just from what you have told us, probably LMA's. As for the burning of the oil, its a used motor. Used = No warranty. It is the owners problem, not yours unless you are not 100% sure of your work.

 

also, have you checked compression? that would be my first thing i did. do that and then let us know what the numbers say.

 

the car already had the LS motor in it, and it was running and driving fine. i took the LS head off. brought the B16 head to the machine shop and had them resurface the head and install new valve seals, then i installed new ARP head studs and 22 teeth water pump and GSR timing belt. and a new golden eagle LS/Vtec kit.

im goin to look at it tommorow and see what the deal is. ill let you know the compression numbers.


is there anyway to check the LMA's?

 

did you ever get this to work out ?

 

wow, yea, holy attitude 92tegvtecgsr. how was it useless converting to ls/vtec over stock vtec? and how was he cuttin corners by just convertin to ls/vtec? no need to be a dick. and if you had the headgasket upside down i think you'd be blowing oil all out the seem of the head/block, so that doesn't sound like the issue. gl man. he's lookin for advice, not someone who thinks they're god or something.

 

92integraVTECgsr

you sir are being quite the ******* to this kid.. sounds like someone pissed in your cornflakes or your ***** hurts not sure which maybe both.. but you honestly shouldnt reply the way you did youre not helping anyone.. this kid has said nothing to get flamed..



nothing wrong with slapping a vtec head on a ls stock block..

also try a leak down test..


shawn

 

yeah do a leak down test. take the head off, flip it over and pour gas or something on the valves. U probably know that. Did the compression test come out right? Mine had a shiity compression test, got the head machined, new valve guide and 3 angle valve job. is it idleing wrong (up/down)? thats what mine was doing before the head was fixed.

 

Sorry about your motor.. Im having a loud tick in my head too after a crack in my block let loose..sh*tty oil pressure :/. About to have it rethreaded and plugged though. Hope you figure out your issue soon!

This is on my b20vtec btw.

 

wouldnt you need a vtec oil pump as well?? i believe not having the vtec oil pump would cause your timing to be off. im just throwing out ideas.

i would start with a leak down for sure. as for the ticking.... maybe you left a nut loose when doing the valve adjustment?? good luck