I bought this car for $500 (90 accord lx) it originally failed smog for NOX
so i took apart the Intake Manifold and cleaned out the EGR ports which helped tremendously.....Now I passed emissions but I still failed for EVAP test which means there is a problem between the gas tank and the engine in the fuel lines??????........ok so my question is is there anyone out there who can pass my car under the table if I pay them say $500 around Southern California.........because fixing this problem is:
1.) very time consuming 2.) very costly and time consuming.


would it be easier just to find someone that can pass the car illegally under the table for say $300-$500.......or to actually diagnose and find the leak and fix it, which could cost and Unknown amount?......which probably would be more than 300 at a shop!....HELP PLEASE

 

Not sure about hondas, but on most cars a high percentage of the EVAP problems are caused by fuel caps going bad. Put a new cap on, erase memory and good chances the problem will be gone.

 

the guy said fuel cap check out fine but I will replace and hopefully this ends the problem. besides my emissions is fine!


my offer still stands at $500 for any tech that can make my car pass smog anyhow in the state of California (anybody).......if I cannot get this I may have to move to a different state so I can drive my cb7 again because it means that much to me...living in california is more like an inconvienece for me regarding the smog thing! it seems other states have no problems like this! anybody know of states that dont require you to pass an evap test?......it seems like they (the state of california) doesnt want my car to pass the test by making it very stringent or hard to pass the test!

I NEED SOMEONE THAT CAN PASS MY CAR UNDER THE TABLE IN CALIFORNIA!
-b-

 

Another thing you could try. As far as I remember EVAP tests are automaticly done at about half tank, if it fails it will set a code(can't see this one without a scanner) which will automaticly fail you when smog shop hooks up pc to your car. So here is what you can do...Fill up your car to full gas, unplug the negative cable for about 5 minutes so all the memory gets wiped. Make sure you have the radio code to re-enable it. Attach the cable back and let the car idle for about 5 minutes so it can re-learn. After that drive it to the smog shop. Since the car is not at the point where it runs its EVAP tests it won't set the code, and the previous one will be gone since you erased memory. The shop CAN force an EVAP test through a scan tool, chances are they won't though. If possible take it to a different smog shop, one that doesn't know you previously had evap issues.



Modified by 3zFree at 12:44 AM 4/26/2008

 

i havent thrown and CEL's and I have a 90 and I dont think there is a code for this problem but I will try the full gas tank see if that helps at all! thanks

 

I don't think they started monitoring EVAP before OBDII.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3zFree &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Another thing you could try. As far as I remember EVAP tests are automaticly done at about half tank, if it fails it will set a code(can't see this one without a scanner) which will automaticly fail you when smog shop hooks up pc to your car. So here is what you can do...Fill up your car to full gas, unplug the negative cable for about 5 minutes so all the memory gets wiped. Make sure you have the radio code to re-enable it. Attach the cable back and let the car idle for about 5 minutes so it can re-learn. After that drive it to the smog shop. Since the car is not at the point where it runs its EVAP tests it won't set the code, and the previous one will be gone since you erased memory. The shop CAN force an EVAP test through a scan tool, chances are they won't though. If possible take it to a different smog shop, one that doesn't know you previously had evap issues.

vehicle is ODB 1 it won't throw MIL for EVAP

Modified by 3zFree at 12:44 AM 4/26/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Most likely your problem is the vaccum line from the tank to the hard line...its about 12" line or less.

It can't be that hard to fix it plus anyone whos willing to take your offer on H-T is a moran..B/C the B.A.R monitors sites like this one.....

 

Read what I wrote, it doesn't throw a MIL. It just sets fail status on its self check.

 

when I remove the gas cap there is no "rushing air sound" like there is supposed to be!!!!..... it's supposed to relieve some kind of pressure but there is no pressure obviiously I checked my other Accord and it makes the sound ok so that one is airtight.....Im assuming that this is due to the leak in it.....Im gonna place car on jackstands and inspect everything myself, Im hoping to find a cracked hose or something!.....if I cannot locate it....it's off to the mechanic for a EVAP smoke test! and knowing mechanics they'll love this problem!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3zFree &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Read what I wrote, it doesn't throw a MIL. It just sets fail status on its self check.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did buddy and i have no idea what ur trying to get @ b/c...your talking about obd2 readiness test for monitors....this dude has a problem with passing the new EVAP test which we tech do manually with the EVAP machine after the ASM inspection is done.......So further more your advice towards "stretchd1" for his vehicle is wrong...He need s to fix the vacuum lines from Evap canister to tank...those might be leaking or maybe his fuel pump seal...those are the problems i have encountered regarding EVAP failure...

 

I just found a gas leak on one of my fuel injectors....would that cause the problem? I know the system is pressurised so I'm assuming a leak in the fuel system is not good anywhere and could be the cause for the evap failure? thanks

-b-