1.5" drop on 215/45/17 ? Help please!
Hey, my question is just that! I have a 01 Civic lx 2dr. If i install eibach sportline lowering springs on it (my current tires are 215/45/17 will there be wheel-well rubbing?)
It's a 1.5" drop all around!
It's a 1.5" drop all around!
... sure! but thx for the help cuz ive had someone tell me that there is no way that can be done! @ 1.5 id need a camber no ?
i'll tell u something, i've done it and i've slammed my car lower than 1.5. no rubbing and no camber as well. so that person just fed u bs.
secondly if u're dropping 1.5 u don't need a camber kit. any lower u will.
use the red search button it's ur friend.
secondly if u're dropping 1.5 u don't need a camber kit. any lower u will.
use the red search button it's ur friend.
thx for ur help bud! i read some of the FAQ thats y i asked bout the camber it said there at about 1.5 ... but i guess id see how it is for a week or so then decide!
cuz clearly id wana do some research an find out b4 blowing cash on springs that would prove to be useless! but again thx dude!
cuz clearly id wana do some research an find out b4 blowing cash on springs that would prove to be useless! but again thx dude!
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I'm stealing this from when I typed it on 7th gen...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is whats known as the "standard answer". Too many of you peeps don't seem to understand how this works, so I'm going to try and explain it out as best I can in words, so it makes sense.
Theres so many variables involved that because guy A gets it to fit, it doesn't mean guy B will.
There's far more involved than X tire rubbing with Y drop.
The offset on the rim, the width of the rim, the alignment, the tire size, the sidewall stiffness of the tire, the shoulder design (square vs. rounded) of the tire, the actual measurement of the tire with respect to the theoretical dimensions it should be, the sag in the springs due to stereos, fat asses, blown shocks, etc...
it is absolutely impossible to look at a stack of numbers and say yes difinitively. This is why no mail order rim and tire place, or at least the reputable ones (tire rack, 1010tires, discount tire, etc) do not apply the guaranteed fitment policy to lowered cars.
You can get a bit of the way there by reading the numbers, the right offset, the right size tire, other stuff that can be read off a table, (see FAQ, tire calc, tire manufacturer's websites etc...) but then the variables all come together where there's absolutely nothing you can do put bolt them on and see if it fits, then adjust it so it does fit. Use common sense, its obvious that you aren't going to get 285s under there, same way you won't get 22's under there. But within the realm of feasible rim selection (14-19/20") and feasible tire ranges (185-225) you should be able to find a combination of rim, tire and offset that gives you a very high percentage shot of getting the wheels on the car without having to cut any sheetmetal. You essentially need to reverse engineer Honda's fit in the wheel wells. Just like reverse engineering anything.... its part trial and error.
Raise the car, adjust the alignment, roll the fenders, etc. whatever needs to be done to make the wheels fit right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This is whats known as the "standard answer". Too many of you peeps don't seem to understand how this works, so I'm going to try and explain it out as best I can in words, so it makes sense.
Theres so many variables involved that because guy A gets it to fit, it doesn't mean guy B will.
There's far more involved than X tire rubbing with Y drop.
The offset on the rim, the width of the rim, the alignment, the tire size, the sidewall stiffness of the tire, the shoulder design (square vs. rounded) of the tire, the actual measurement of the tire with respect to the theoretical dimensions it should be, the sag in the springs due to stereos, fat asses, blown shocks, etc...
it is absolutely impossible to look at a stack of numbers and say yes difinitively. This is why no mail order rim and tire place, or at least the reputable ones (tire rack, 1010tires, discount tire, etc) do not apply the guaranteed fitment policy to lowered cars.
You can get a bit of the way there by reading the numbers, the right offset, the right size tire, other stuff that can be read off a table, (see FAQ, tire calc, tire manufacturer's websites etc...) but then the variables all come together where there's absolutely nothing you can do put bolt them on and see if it fits, then adjust it so it does fit. Use common sense, its obvious that you aren't going to get 285s under there, same way you won't get 22's under there. But within the realm of feasible rim selection (14-19/20") and feasible tire ranges (185-225) you should be able to find a combination of rim, tire and offset that gives you a very high percentage shot of getting the wheels on the car without having to cut any sheetmetal. You essentially need to reverse engineer Honda's fit in the wheel wells. Just like reverse engineering anything.... its part trial and error.
Raise the car, adjust the alignment, roll the fenders, etc. whatever needs to be done to make the wheels fit right.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Wazup
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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Jan 24, 2003 12:47 PM



does this include highway off / on ramps @ higher speeds

