Long story short my friend dropped the handle from a tool down the #2 plug hole while I was asking him to check TDC on #1 (I was doing the timing belt and wanted to be sure I was lining up the right mark on the balancer. Wish I wasn't so particular now.)

It looks like I'll be able to remove the cylinder head without unbolting the intake manifold... just unbolt the supports from the block. I hope I don't have to remove that coolant manifold off the LHS as well... I did remove the exhaust. Stock manifold is cracked (WTF ) All the studs had no threads due to rust and had to be cut off. Fun and games.

 

it comes off with both manifolds on it. You'll have to disconnect the hard pipe from the back of the water block, as well as all the hoses.

 

Thanks BM1... took the head off last night.

I've never had to clean the deck on an aluminum block before. I'm using gasket remover and a rag, that's it. I don't want to bugger up the finish, since I've heard these MLS gaskets can be a bit unforgiving. Comments? I have fine wire wheels for a die grinder (2" dia or so) that I always used with success on my old iron junk. I'm actually expirimenting with this on the head; the exhaust port areas are so badly corroded and pitted... The fel pro exhaust gasket seems like it will be up to the task, but I have had bad luck before with this style of compressible steel gasket. I don't really want to add orange high heat RTV, but maybe others have? I guess if it leaks I can R&R the exhaust manifold alone. At least the bolts will be new, all of the studs had to be drilled and extracted, and the lower two to the exhaust had to be cut off.

Going to fab up some guide studs to help the head land square with that intake hanging off the back. I Hope the dowel pins will come out of the head to hold the gasket in place, haven't tried to pull them. Cursory examination of the gasket reveals no front or top markings, front is evident, hopefully so too is "top."

If anyone has any further advice or can point me to threads, I'd appreciate it.

Edit: turns out I had the engine at TDC on the exhaust stroke on #1, as a final kicker. I assume there will be no foul in moving the cam 180 degrees, putting #1 at TDC, installing the belt, and firing it up?


Modified by eighty6gt at 10:16 PM 4/22/2008

 

I wouldnt use anything abrasive on the head. some kind of solvent should be ok. The head gasket only goes on one way... the top of it is solid black, the bottom has the silver rings where the water jacket is. Its impossible to put it on wrong, as the dowel pins only fit in the front holes, the rears ones are big enough for the bolts only.

 

thanks again BM... this post was about some bearing I found but it was from a cruddy creeper I'm using..


Modified by eighty6gt at 6:33 PM 4/26/2008


Modified by eighty6gt at 6:33 PM 4/26/2008

 

a soft scotch-brite pad is ok to use too.