over reved my sohc (bent or dropped valve?)
Whats up every body! Im in need of some help here, maybee some one could lead me in the right direction. I have a jdm d15 vtec obd1 swap in my 91 hatch. Saturday night, I was racing a crx si, had to shift from third to fourth but i ACCIDENTLY shifted into second
. The car sounded like it was running ok until I came up to a light, I had to give it gas to keep it running. I pulled over and sounded like it was iddeling really low.
Turned it off then wouldnt start any more. wasnt getting spark. So changed the coil and started up but sounded the same. pulled the wires and noticed one cylinder wasnt reacting from pulling the wire off. Also pulled off the fuel rail with injectors to check for fuel and they all were fiering.
What do you guys think?
-Spun bearing
-floated valve
-other
Any suggestions please.
. The car sounded like it was running ok until I came up to a light, I had to give it gas to keep it running. I pulled over and sounded like it was iddeling really low. Turned it off then wouldnt start any more. wasnt getting spark. So changed the coil and started up but sounded the same. pulled the wires and noticed one cylinder wasnt reacting from pulling the wire off. Also pulled off the fuel rail with injectors to check for fuel and they all were fiering.
What do you guys think?
-Spun bearing
-floated valve
-other
Any suggestions please.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Before you go yanking the motor apart, do a simple leakdown test. It will tell you where the problem is likely located before you tear **** up unnecessarily.
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X2
As for cost of repairing the head (If thats the problem) its VERY specific to exactly what happened, the head might be ok, might be cheap to fix, might be expensive to fix, or it might be trash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah, 3-2 isn't that bad.. my favorite is the cataclysmic 5-2 downshift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I prefer the 6-1 K liquifier
</TD></TR></TABLE>
X2
As for cost of repairing the head (If thats the problem) its VERY specific to exactly what happened, the head might be ok, might be cheap to fix, might be expensive to fix, or it might be trash.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sanimalp »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ah, 3-2 isn't that bad.. my favorite is the cataclysmic 5-2 downshift.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I prefer the 6-1 K liquifier
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bob_760 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I prefer the 6-1 K liquifier
</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol
I prefer the 6-1 K liquifier
</TD></TR></TABLE>lol
What's up guys. Got the news on the head. We pulled the head off and took it to a machine shop. They took it apart, looked at it and pressure tested it, they said all the exhaust valves were bad. I'm having them rebuild it. I'm thinking of just using oem parts and dropping in a aftermarket cam. Any suggestions on the cam or about the head before its to late. Thanks for the responses everybody.
how much is this head work costing you? if its more than 200 bucks i would just go buy another d15b for 300 bucks at your local import shop. its gonna cost way more after a new head gasket, new head studs.
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Schaz
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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Nov 7, 2004 09:06 PM





