My American-made 1998 Honda Accord V6 won't start. It's had a check-up (oil change, air filter change, tires rotated, etc) and I drove all the way out to the burbs to day (60 miles round trip) and back with no issue. Got back in the car to go get some takeout and when I turned the key, it rumbled but didn't catch. Then every light on the dashboard came on. Gave up and went in the house to have peanut butter and toast.

Went back down about half an hour later to get my phone and it started. Weakly, but it started. Drove around the parking garage - reversed - parked. Fine. Re-started it fine.

For sure it's going to the mechanic tomorrow but what should I be preparing myself for? Just so y'know: last year it got a new transmission, new tires, new timing belt and a new battery and it just had (three weeks ago) its spring check up.

Thanks for any and all words of wisdom.

 

ignition switch recall done on the car?

I'd start with that

 

Checked. It's been done.

 

Weak battery due to a dome light left on??

 

I don't think so . . . . I didn't turn it on.

It's so sudden - which is what freaks me the hell out. And EVERY indicator on the dash came on. That ain't in the manual. *lol*

I stopped and started it several times throughout the course of the day with no issue.

I've been googling alternators, distributor caps and ignition for the last hour.

 

new trans..................... it's the trans ground.

the starter pretty much uses the entire trans as one huge ground. ( see how its shoved into the bell housing) and you can see how the pos cable is routed to the starter.

same shiznit happened to me...............

the trans ground is loose.

i drove my civic all the way to the track, nitrous on the highway etc. got there thing would'nt start ended up push starting it (popping the clutch ) ran.....came home freaking ground was loose

 

Alternator...

Bad alt = won't charge battery = won't start

All the lights will/can come on in the dash

etc

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Alternator...

Bad alt = won't charge battery = won't start

All the lights will/can come on in the dash

etc</TD></TR></TABLE>

ya that could be it too. but she can simply diagnose this with a multimeter to see the batteries charge, she also stated that that click click click click noise was'nt really occuring so :S

 

Where did she say that?

I see that it didn't start - with all lights on the cluster on, then 30 minutes later it weakly started and drove fine...

 

Thanks for your feedback. I just went and tried it out again. Starts fine. Smooth. What the heezy?!!? Well, at least I can get my kid to school and I'll drop it off at the shop on the way to work.

Is an alternator expensive to repair/replace? I know next to nothing about cars . . . when something goes wrong I read up on it and I always make the Honda guy explain to me in tedious detail what he's doing and why and why it all matters so I can learn . . . but my *gut* is saying alternator too.

I will let you know.

 

From driving it around it probably charged your battery long enough so it could give you a good start

If it's working intermittently that could explain it as well.

You CAN get it load tested for free at Advance Auto Parts btw.

It's not too difficult to replace, if you take it to a shop it's less than an Hour definitely. I guessed on how to take mine out and it only took about 45 mins for the old one to come out and the new one to go in.

 

that happns with alot of accords specialy on a hot day theres a cable that goes to the ignition have to get it checked

 

I am lacking the skills, unfortunately.

I would love to find a DIY automotive course . . . I have no idea how to change a tire, change my oil, change my wipers, check the oil - nada. I can't even open the hood on my car. My (ex) husband showed me twice . . . but I simply haven't retained the information. I guess because I do it so infrequently.

I make one helluva lasagne though!!! *lol*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miz_glammie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for your feedback. I just went and tried it out again. Starts fine. Smooth. What the heezy?!!? Well, at least I can get my kid to school and I'll drop it off at the shop on the way to work.

Is an alternator expensive to repair/replace? I know next to nothing about cars . . . when something goes wrong I read up on it and I always make the Honda guy explain to me in tedious detail what he's doing and why and why it all matters so I can learn . . . but my *gut* is saying alternator too.

I will let you know. </TD></TR></TABLE>

alternator.......... hmmmmmmmm 32 for the belt. 150 ish for the part plus what do you guys flag? 1.5 for a non warranty alternator?

ive only had the f22 powered alts come in never done a v6.........

probably wind up with a couple hundred in the repair. but i would NOT immediatly point to the alternator as the problem.

you can take it out and have it tested....... free if you remove it yourself. buy a helms manual and follow it..........

how alot of us learned on cars. ( i learned in high school........which isn't saying much becuase im 19! lol)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miz_glammie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am lacking the skills, unfortunately.

I would love to find a DIY automotive course . . . I have no idea how to change a tire, change my oil, change my wipers, check the oil - nada. I can't even open the hood on my car. My (ex) husband showed me twice . . . but I simply haven't retained the information. I guess because I do it so infrequently.

I make one helluva lasagne though!!! *lol*</TD></TR></TABLE>


I like lasagna

 

Im not sure about the accords... But if they have a vented gas cap and it is malfunctioning it could have vapor locked the engine causeing the no start condition, then after you let it sit for a while the vapor lock went away... Just my 2c. Its always fun diaging cars on the computer =P

 

It started this morning without any issue. When I got to the garage, the guy told me maybe it was the starter motor or something to do with the ignition. He said if it had been the alternator, it would not have started back up, period. The owner (the guy I usually deal with) wasn't there so I went on to work. Spoke to him later; said to bring it in on Wed. and he'll have a look while he's replacing my front ball joints.

However, after picking up my son, the car was noticeably "weaker". It started . . . but then it started to "tremble" momentarily. Made it home (about 3 miles) without issue . . but that's the second time it's done that trembling thing . . . it's really weird.

 

fuses ?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by miz_glammie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am lacking the skills, unfortunately.


I make one helluva lasagne though!!! *lol*</TD></TR></TABLE>

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


I like lasagna </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a match made in heaven.


I am actually thinking it may be the Main Relay.
Symptoms include not starting when engine/weather is hot. Weak starts, etc.

I dont want to doubt you. a main relay is really easy to replace, but by the sounds of it, I would have a small town auto shop replace it for you. Ask for an OEM Honda Main Fuel Pump Relay. Should be about $20-$30 . Maybe 30 minutes of labor.

 

If it were fuses the problem most likely wouldn't be intermintent, if the fuse burns open like a fuseable link the car will not start period. the starter motor would not cause the engine to stumble.

main relays usually will not cause an intermitent issue either... if the vehicle has a bad main relay... you will not be able to start the vehicle at all and it also still does not explain the roguhness after it starts.

Lets do the right thing here guys and put away the shotguns and refer her to a good shop.


It could on the other hand be a possible vacum leak. a vacum will cause a rough idle but it will become less noticeable off idle. the reason it stumbles with a vacum leak is beacuse it causes a lean missfire. the vacum leak is a unwanted suction that draws excess air into the engine. this could also make it difficult for the engine to start. when there is to much unmetered air in the engine with not enough fule you get a lean missfire. you should have this issue diaged with a diag tech asap. a missfire can cause your hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) to increase wich in turn can destroy your catalytic converter. which is a lot more expensive than a 1 hour diag.


Modified by JDM Panda at 9:24 PM 4/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Panda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If it were fuses the problem most likely wouldn't be intermintent, if the fuse burns open like a fuseable link the car will not start period. the starter motor would not cause the engine to stumble.

main relays usually will not cause an intermitent issue either... if the vehicle has a bad main relay... you will not be able to start the vehicle at all and it also still does not explain the roguhness after it starts.

Lets do the right thing here guys and put away the shotguns and refer her to a good shop.


It could on the other hand be a possible vacum leak. a vacum will cause a rough idle but it will become less noticeable off idle. the reason it stumbles with a vacum leak is beacuse it causes a lean missfire. the vacum leak is a unwanted suction that draws excess air into the engine. this could also make it difficult for the engine to start. when there is to much unmetered air in the engine with not enough fule you get a lean missfire. you should have this issue diaged with a diag tech asap. a missfire can cause your hydrocarbons (unburned fuel) to increase wich in turn can destroy your catalytic converter. which is a lot more expensive than a 1 hour diag.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this could be an issue but it would not be something as stupid as a unhooked hose, it will have to be a GAPING hole in the intake manifold im sure it would be the absolute FIRST thing she would notice when she was trying to diag her car.

i honestly think the person doing the trans swap moved the ground cable to a painted ground, it could cause an intermittent issue depending on tempreture (which she clearly states morning vs night vs afternoon)

also her plugs being bad is a sperate issue............ which could destroy the cat, but she does not have the p130 code....... which is a dead giveaway that a cat is not working at optimum efficency.

 

it doesnt have to be a "gaping" hole in oder to cause a leak... it could be things as small as cracks in a vacum hose.

and the missfire i stated has nothing to do with plugs...its a lean missfire which means there to much air and not enough fuel...

the trans ground is a possibility but it would have been noticed shortly after the trans swap.


Modified by JDM Panda at 9:37 PM 4/21/2008

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM Panda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
main relays usually will not cause an intermitent issue either... if the vehicle has a bad main relay... you will not be able to start the vehicle at all and it also still does not explain the roguhness after it starts.


Modified by JDM Panda at 9:24 PM 4/21/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

WTF? Main relays that are going bad, & not completely shot, will cause the car to sometimes not start. It will also sometimes cause a rough/weak start when it is hot. The heat causes the solders to expand, thus reducing a strong, definate, connection.

Same symptoms on my 98 about 3 months ago.

She states that it started about half an hour after she turned it off. This is because it gave the relay time to cool down after being driven, thus returning the cracks in the solders to be temporairly closed to create a connection.

 

Actually, heating the solder on joints is a good thing it expands and makes contact with the surface.

Over time the cold causes it to shrink and break connection.

While it's a possibility something like that is the case it would be the ignition switch area but I don't believe that's the case.

The honestly best bet, since we're all shooting in the dark.

$30 + Honda Dealership diagnostic =

They'll tell you EVERYTHING they find wrong with the car - doesn't mean you have to get it fixed there Just get the report and go to a cheaper shop.

 

diag tech ftw.