Sounds like a subaru and cuts fuel @ 3K RPM or so NO CEL
Well here is the problem i've been trying to fix for a month:
I'll start by saying the car is a 96 Integra GSR with conversion harness to OBD1 JDM P72 GSR ECU with a JDM B16A OBD1 motor GSR distributor.
I just swapped all these parts into this shell so the car really has yet to run correctly.
So it idles very rough when I hit the gas it will misfire at about 2K and when it hits 3K will cut off fuel if full throttle. If I try I can sometimes get it to 4K at which point the tach will drop to 0 RPM and the engine acts like it hit a rev limiter.
The car basically runs like severe ****. I don't know if i want to take it on a main road because i'm afraid of what will happen if I do.
The strange thing is I onced changed the charcol canister and it ran almost normal! But this only lasted for 2 hours and it would actually stall at stop signs. I parked it for 4 hours came back to start it - no start. Found the coil burnt out (spotting on insulation). Changed the coil started up with orignal problem. Fried coil again. Replaced with MSD external coil this time.
Heres what I have tried with known good parts :
Replaced FPR, Fuel pump , Ignition control module (3 times) , coil (4 times), MSD coil, ECU (P75, P72 OBD1), checked grounds (tranmission, engine, thermostat), ohm check on each injector okay, charcoal canister, compression tests all cylinders even, dont have fuel pressure guage or vacuum guages. There has never been a check engine light on.
My next guess is to change the engine harness. Maybe its messed up because someone wired VTEC???
I dont think its the O2 or PCV or FITV or IACV or TPS just because it ran normal that one day. I'm starting to think its just an electrical thing but I'm about out of ideas and am just praying for a CEL.
Anyone ?? Please help I've done 10 engine swaps and put shells together in less time then I've spent on this and its driving me insane!!!!!!
I'll start by saying the car is a 96 Integra GSR with conversion harness to OBD1 JDM P72 GSR ECU with a JDM B16A OBD1 motor GSR distributor.
I just swapped all these parts into this shell so the car really has yet to run correctly.
So it idles very rough when I hit the gas it will misfire at about 2K and when it hits 3K will cut off fuel if full throttle. If I try I can sometimes get it to 4K at which point the tach will drop to 0 RPM and the engine acts like it hit a rev limiter.
The car basically runs like severe ****. I don't know if i want to take it on a main road because i'm afraid of what will happen if I do.
The strange thing is I onced changed the charcol canister and it ran almost normal! But this only lasted for 2 hours and it would actually stall at stop signs. I parked it for 4 hours came back to start it - no start. Found the coil burnt out (spotting on insulation). Changed the coil started up with orignal problem. Fried coil again. Replaced with MSD external coil this time.
Heres what I have tried with known good parts :
Replaced FPR, Fuel pump , Ignition control module (3 times) , coil (4 times), MSD coil, ECU (P75, P72 OBD1), checked grounds (tranmission, engine, thermostat), ohm check on each injector okay, charcoal canister, compression tests all cylinders even, dont have fuel pressure guage or vacuum guages. There has never been a check engine light on.
My next guess is to change the engine harness. Maybe its messed up because someone wired VTEC???
I dont think its the O2 or PCV or FITV or IACV or TPS just because it ran normal that one day. I'm starting to think its just an electrical thing but I'm about out of ideas and am just praying for a CEL.
Anyone ?? Please help I've done 10 engine swaps and put shells together in less time then I've spent on this and its driving me insane!!!!!!
Well I should also mentioned I've replaced the entire ignition system minus the distributor housing. Plugs (NGK), wires (tried used and new ones), cap, rotor, igniter, coil.
No vacuum leaks, just replaced all vacuum lines.
Update:
Just drove it for twenty minutes around the neighboor hood, can't get it over 20MPH car jerks hardcore @ 2k RPM any gear and tach bottoms out, complete loss of power ... no stalling at all though. Once i let go of throttle I can get back to 2K if I use less than 25% throttle or so. Tried to uplug TPS same effect, unplugged MAP sensor, engine stalled. Restarted with no problem.
Worth mentioning that after warming up, the car now idles perfectly... WTF?!?!
Someone please give me some ideas as I'm going insane trying to figure this out.
No vacuum leaks, just replaced all vacuum lines.
Update:
Just drove it for twenty minutes around the neighboor hood, can't get it over 20MPH car jerks hardcore @ 2k RPM any gear and tach bottoms out, complete loss of power ... no stalling at all though. Once i let go of throttle I can get back to 2K if I use less than 25% throttle or so. Tried to uplug TPS same effect, unplugged MAP sensor, engine stalled. Restarted with no problem.
Worth mentioning that after warming up, the car now idles perfectly... WTF?!?!
Someone please give me some ideas as I'm going insane trying to figure this out.
you really didnt change the dizzy out yet?
When something like what you are describing happens, the first thing you should check is the distributor. Did you even change the cap n rotor? I bet its the cap and rotor or the whole distributor went to ****.
When something like what you are describing happens, the first thing you should check is the distributor. Did you even change the cap n rotor? I bet its the cap and rotor or the whole distributor went to ****.
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Well yeah if you read my post I said I changed the distributor parts minus the housing, I would throw a dizzy at it but I can't afford 200 guess. Not to mention noone I know has one I can borrow. Ill post a update after the tps and fuel filter and o2 sensor change tonight. Any more ideas or experiences would be appericated.
Well, I replaced the fuel filter and TPS sensor no difference. Spark plugs are carbon fouled. Only thing left is the actual distributor but why won't it throw a crank sensor code or something... anyone in Denver got a VTEC dizzy that I can borrow??
Had the same problem on my last teg, and it was my dizzy.
On my current teg it was my TPS. Make sure your TPS is adjusted. Tap into the ground wire (i think its black) with something that you can hook a volt meter up to and adjust the TPS VERY carefully so that the voltage reads between .45 and .5 volts.
I really doubt that will fix your problem though, I'm almost positive you need a new distributor.
On my current teg it was my TPS. Make sure your TPS is adjusted. Tap into the ground wire (i think its black) with something that you can hook a volt meter up to and adjust the TPS VERY carefully so that the voltage reads between .45 and .5 volts.
I really doubt that will fix your problem though, I'm almost positive you need a new distributor.
Yes it has to be the dizzy considering it burned 3 coils. I had suspected it the whole time but I just don't have a test one. Guess ill risk a 200 guess from disturbitor king....
Yea its running rich. Plugs are carbon fouled, its obviously getting gas! About to buy a distributor tomorrow...hey B18Cyko5 did you borrow your friends distributor? What happened?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Kr0n1k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump
Anyone else fixed this problem with a distributor replacement?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the thread. Like 4-5 people in here have fixed this problem by replacing the distributor.
Anyone else fixed this problem with a distributor replacement?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the thread. Like 4-5 people in here have fixed this problem by replacing the distributor.
try the dizzy. for what you said before, its seems like some wire with power its fring the coils and modules. It hjappened to me once when some one installed an OBD I dizzy into and OBD II harnes without using the right dizzy hanrnes. Good luck man, hope this helps you fiz your problem.
Problem resolved!
Obviously the ecu was losing the crank sensor signal and a new distributor fixed it.
Now redlining with no misses.
Engine light would have been helpful lol.
Obviously the ecu was losing the crank sensor signal and a new distributor fixed it.
Now redlining with no misses.
Engine light would have been helpful lol.
so you got it fixed? good to hear that! im about to work on mine this weekend.. i hope its not the distributor.. how much did one of those run you? and is there anyway to check if the distributor is bad or do i just have to get another one and try it?
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