Turbo Oil Leak
Summary - If you don't want to read most of this page this is the case...
I have a t3/t4 that leaks oil into the exhaust and have been told the seals may be shot. Would these be the only two seals that need replacing?
Also, on the shaft near the turbine wheel, I think it's supposed to have 2 piston rings while mine only has one and it's really loose. Could that be a reason it leaks? Any help is appreciated, Thanks.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 10:19 PM 7/24/2008
I have a t3/t4 that leaks oil into the exhaust and have been told the seals may be shot. Would these be the only two seals that need replacing?
Also, on the shaft near the turbine wheel, I think it's supposed to have 2 piston rings while mine only has one and it's really loose. Could that be a reason it leaks? Any help is appreciated, Thanks.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 10:19 PM 7/24/2008
I guess I just don't understand how a 90 fitting is causing a leak. And there isn't room for having it come straight off. Would it make a difference if I changed the 90 for a 45? Anyone have any pictures of their return line?
It's the weekend and I've got some time to work on it.
It's the weekend and I've got some time to work on it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I just don't understand how a 90 fitting is causing a leak. And there isn't room for having it come straight off. Would it make a difference if I changed the 90 for a 45? Anyone have any pictures of their return line?
It's the weekend and I've got some time to work on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMFG dude you are going to kill the seals in your turbo. Don't drive it like that!!
The CHRA needs to be vertical NOT horizontal. lol
Clock your turbo asap before you toast this one.
The feed needs to be on top like this:
It's the weekend and I've got some time to work on it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
OMFG dude you are going to kill the seals in your turbo. Don't drive it like that!!
The CHRA needs to be vertical NOT horizontal. lol
Clock your turbo asap before you toast this one.
The feed needs to be on top like this:
Thanks for saying something. So I'll loosen the bolts on the CHRA and clock it so that the oil feed is on the top and the feed drains straight out the bottom. I can still keep my piping and the compressor discharge pointed down correct?
Thanks for saving a turbo from a noob.
Thanks for saving a turbo from a noob.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I can still keep my piping and the compressor discharge pointed down correct?
Thanks for saving a turbo from a noob.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, you can still keep the compressor outlet in the same spot. The CHRA is gravity drain, so its very important that it points down to aid in drainage.
If you need pics of my drain lemme know
Thanks for saving a turbo from a noob.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yep, you can still keep the compressor outlet in the same spot. The CHRA is gravity drain, so its very important that it points down to aid in drainage.
If you need pics of my drain lemme know
Will I still be able to use the 45 degree fitting I have connected to the oil pan?
It comes straight out of the oil pan and up toward the CHRA at a 45 degree angle.
It comes straight out of the oil pan and up toward the CHRA at a 45 degree angle.
I'm rebuilding mine tonight. You can do it yourself but be carfull when you take everything apart. If the fines have any damage to them you need to have it sent off and balanced. Question, it looks like you have a block off plate on the manifold and there is no internal wastegate, how do you control boost?
Modified by moores55 at 6:20 PM 4/19/2008
Modified by moores55 at 6:20 PM 4/19/2008
There is an internal wastegate and the block-off plate is covering the flange for an external wastegate.
Edit: I just got it back from Oregon Fuel Injection where they installed a heat shield on the exhaust side. It hasn't been used since I bought it 2 years ago. There isn't any damage to the turbo, so it should only need seals.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 7:30 PM 4/19/2008
Edit: I just got it back from Oregon Fuel Injection where they installed a heat shield on the exhaust side. It hasn't been used since I bought it 2 years ago. There isn't any damage to the turbo, so it should only need seals.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 7:30 PM 4/19/2008
Well I haven't really driven my car a lot because it's not tuned and has an extremely rich afr. There's a guy I go to school with who said he'd do it but keeps blowing me off. Between getting pissed off that he won't f'n commit and not being done yet, I'm just spinning my tires not getting anything accomplished.
I had the turbo "fixed" when they installed a heat shield for $200 after a month of nagging, and that was 4 months ago. But the turbo still leaks oil, so I took it apart to look at the internal wastegate. It's filthy and there appeared to be a hole by the piston. I drilled an 1/8 hole through it like butter and then proceeded to drill a bigger hole so I can weld it shut in week or so when I get my welder shipped.


My question is about where the leak is? As stupid as it sounds I keep questioning whether or not the hole by the internal wastegate is the main contributer. As much oil was in the exhaust I'd like to think that was the only leak, but why do the fins look so bad... nevermind because they are on the exhaust side in the same spot.
Would there be a benefit from welding the internal gate shut and getting an external wastegate? because I don't know how the oil is getting into that area.
I guess if anyone has any helpful information I'd really appreciate it.
I had the turbo "fixed" when they installed a heat shield for $200 after a month of nagging, and that was 4 months ago. But the turbo still leaks oil, so I took it apart to look at the internal wastegate. It's filthy and there appeared to be a hole by the piston. I drilled an 1/8 hole through it like butter and then proceeded to drill a bigger hole so I can weld it shut in week or so when I get my welder shipped.


My question is about where the leak is? As stupid as it sounds I keep questioning whether or not the hole by the internal wastegate is the main contributer. As much oil was in the exhaust I'd like to think that was the only leak, but why do the fins look so bad... nevermind because they are on the exhaust side in the same spot.
Would there be a benefit from welding the internal gate shut and getting an external wastegate? because I don't know how the oil is getting into that area.
I guess if anyone has any helpful information I'd really appreciate it.
Regardless of an internal or external wastegate the oil is still going to leak into the exhaust. Its leaking from the seals (I assume) so either way its going to make its way directly out into the piping or through the internal gate. An external gate would help you but I don't think its going to help your situation. The oil is coming from the seals unless its directly leaking from the feed or drain but if that was the case it would be leaking on the outside of the turbo.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95delsolz6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So I need new seals? There's no leak on or around the inlet or outlet to suggest external leak. Replacing the seals is something I can do right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, the turbine seal is toast and looks like it has been for a long time to be leaking that heavily. As long as you are careful and mark the nut and compressor orientation prior to removing, you can replace that seal yourself. When you pull the shaft out, it will be a piston ring looking thing that is removed and reinstalled with snap ring pliers.
Yeah, the turbine seal is toast and looks like it has been for a long time to be leaking that heavily. As long as you are careful and mark the nut and compressor orientation prior to removing, you can replace that seal yourself. When you pull the shaft out, it will be a piston ring looking thing that is removed and reinstalled with snap ring pliers.
I was reading on garrett's website that an oil restrictor is used with ball bearings and not usually needed for journal bearings, "an oil restrictor is generally not needed for a journal-bearing turbocharger except for those applications with oil-pressure-induced seal leakage."
How would I know if the oil pressure is too high? Granted I'm replacing the seals regardless, but I don't want to ruin brand new seals.
How would I know if the oil pressure is too high? Granted I'm replacing the seals regardless, but I don't want to ruin brand new seals.
Just to clarify but I made some match marks on the nut and the compressor wheel.

All I do is hold onto the turbine end while using a socket to loosen the nut?
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:38 PM 7/24/2008

All I do is hold onto the turbine end while using a socket to loosen the nut?
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:38 PM 7/24/2008
Summary -
I have a t3/t4 that leaks oil into the exhaust and have been told the seals may be shot. Would these be the only two seals that need replacing?
Also, on the shaft near the turbine wheel, I think it's supposed to have 2 piston rings while mine only has one and it's really loose. Could that be a reason it leaks? Any help is appreciated, Thanks.
I have a t3/t4 that leaks oil into the exhaust and have been told the seals may be shot. Would these be the only two seals that need replacing?
Also, on the shaft near the turbine wheel, I think it's supposed to have 2 piston rings while mine only has one and it's really loose. Could that be a reason it leaks? Any help is appreciated, Thanks.
The other piston ring is on the thrust collar, and if you want to replace that you will need to take off the backplate. However try changing the piston ring on the turbine shaft first to see if that is your problem.
welfarepc
The drain is 1/2 OD and I think its a little small. I was reading an old post and they had said nothing smaller than 1/2 ID, so I'll get a bigger drain line in case.
EK4civichatch
I was looking for a seal kit and found this
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4....m14.l1318>
blah blah blah super quality, but it's what I'm looking for.
The guy selling this kit suggested I do a minor rebuild, but he's a salesman. More importantly the kit he suggested contains...
jornal beraings,
c clips,
thrust bearing,
seal ring for bearing housing,
shaft locknut,
and "high quality carbon seal set"... whatever
All I need are the 2 internal seals, I don't know if I need the other 2 for the compressor housing.
So I almost know what I'm doing. I atleast need the 2 seals for the turbine and compressor, but anything else worth getting?
Anyone turbo savvy can comment, I just want to make one order if possible.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:22 PM 7/26/2008
The drain is 1/2 OD and I think its a little small. I was reading an old post and they had said nothing smaller than 1/2 ID, so I'll get a bigger drain line in case.
EK4civichatch
I was looking for a seal kit and found this
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4....m14.l1318>
blah blah blah super quality, but it's what I'm looking for.
The guy selling this kit suggested I do a minor rebuild, but he's a salesman. More importantly the kit he suggested contains...
jornal beraings,
c clips,
thrust bearing,
seal ring for bearing housing,
shaft locknut,
and "high quality carbon seal set"... whatever
All I need are the 2 internal seals, I don't know if I need the other 2 for the compressor housing.
So I almost know what I'm doing. I atleast need the 2 seals for the turbine and compressor, but anything else worth getting?
Anyone turbo savvy can comment, I just want to make one order if possible.
Modified by 95delsolz6 at 3:22 PM 7/26/2008



