Are there any dyno plots of people with a type R exhaust on their car??

 

ttt...anyone?? help..please??

 

even if there was, it would only give a horse or two. its a little better than stock but not much

 

damn thats it its 2.25 mandrel bent tubing right?

 

Yep, that's it -- only 1-2 hp is what you will likely gain from this exhaust. What were you expecting?


[Modified by Neo, 8:04 AM 7/12/2002]

 

flows 30% more than GSR exhaust plus u get the looks and sound of OE

 

Well, in all fairness, part of that 30% comes from the ITR exhaust manifold. But, the Type-R exhaust does flow well. Let's face it, Honda engineers are not morons, they know what they are doing better than the vast majority of these aftermarket companies. It is 2.25" diameter mandrel bent piping; it's not as large as some aftermarket exhausts, but it'll have better flow velocity as a result. Bigger is not always better. Most people hear this and that about back pressure, but don't know about flow velocity and tend to buy into myths like "some engines need a little bit of back pressure".

Anyways, I bolted up just the Type-R axle-back and noticed an improvement, nothing huge, but the mid range was definately better. Then I installed my ITR b-pipe and DC 4-2-1 header and noticed a nice improvement. Sure, the header is a big part of that, but my car runs as fast as any other LS with just I/H/E that I've heard of. I'm taking down cars that ran 15.6 at 700ft elevation, and doing it without any weight reduction.

But, the ignorant people say that I need a brand name aftermarket cat-back and brand name intake (even if it's just a short ram) because what I have now is cheap and performs about the same as stock. Well, then I must have a magic car that allows my cheap mods to perform as well as most overpriced brand name mods do. Obviously, there's no magic involved, but people refuse to admit that they payed too much and have to pass off hearsay, uneducated assumptions, and lies as fact to make their stuff look better. I'm not saying the mods I have are the best performing mods available, but they are certainly better than stock and better than most people give them credit for. I'm sorry if you payed too much for your mods, but that's no excuse to tell lies.

Here's a dyno of my car:
http://www.vMac.org/~weston/teg/Dyno20020629.jpg

And here's the mods that show up on that dyno:
Generic 3-inch short ram intake
DC 4-2-1 header
ITR cat-back

It was also on a 95-100F degree day; I'm not sure if the dyno corrected for that or not. It seems to be right around average numbers for a LS with I/H/E, and it's real world performance is about the same as well. I know that AEM CAI's dyno a bit better than me, but we're talking about exhaust here anyways.

Also, a word about HP... There is no dyno that measures horsepower; they measure torque and RPM. Torque is the actual power, horsepower is just a simple calculation based on torque and RPM that attempts to account for the advantage of higher rev'ing engines, but it is far from perfect. So, comparisons based entirely on horsepower are also far from perfect. HP can be very misleading, so one mod that makes X whp could be quite a bit different than another mod that makes the same whp improvement.

Alright, I think I'm done explaining things... There's just too much stupidity and misinformation being passed off as fact on message boards anymore. From now on, I'll just mutter "dumbass" when some ignorant person starts talking like they are an expert on the subject.

 

thanks for the info weston. Basically i am just looking for some justification to buy this exhaust since I hear a lot of people always trying to sell me on aftermarket exhaust that cost twice as much. So what you said gives me a comeback line for all the bs people tell me about buying aftermarket exhausts.

 

Stock ITR exhaust has a bottleneck in the cat flange, and in the rear resonator.

It's an improvement over stock, but not an exhaust that I'd invest money in.

 

is there a way to remove the bottleneck?

 

I removed mine on thursday

 

I don't have a bottle neck on my rear resonator...just the muffler...stock...but I like it that way.

 

how did you remove the bottleneck?enlighten me please

 

Just hack off the flange and weld on a new one.

 

I found a nice improvement changing to the ITR
muffler and leaving the GSR piping in place for
now. It lets me run more overlap in my cams...
less backpressure in this case means I lose
a bit of exhaust velocity I was making on
my previous settings, so I increased the
duration on the cams at overlap biased toward
the ehaust side and made power where before
I made a hole at 4500... the butt dyno feels
more response I am not going back there until
I have a header and a VAFC. I am in the 160-165,
120-125 range to the wheels with 120+ at 5250
on stock manifolds with CTR cams, 11:1 compression
which means I will have more power once I can tune
and open the breathing some.

cheers

 

like that. I had the muffler shop cut it though...they used a chop saw.