If I were to use hondata to raise the stock redline, what is the safe limit on stock internals?
-Alex

 

ITRs have the same stroke, and rev to about 8700 RPM. I'd say stop there. The GSR obviously uses slightly different internals, but 500 over stock should be fine. Upgrade the valve train to do this, however. That's probably going to be the first thing to go if you dont.

 

Personally, i would go no further than 8500rpm. You're not going to gain any power by revving it higher since the engine starts running out of breath after 8000rpm NA. As for the ITR, true it has the same bore and stroke, but the crank, compression, valvetrain and cams are all different. The ITR is built to rev higher and still make power past 8000rpm. If you were to get a set of ITR cams along with a better valvetrain, you might see a reason to rev further.

All you're going to do is float the valves and have some serious problems if you push it too far...

 

your cams dont make power that high, so there is no point. There is a reason there is a rev limit you are just going to cause wear and damage

 

I was just wondering. Thank you guys. I don't plan to run past redline, I am just trying to learn the inner workings of the whole car.

 

here is a pretty much stock ported gsr dyno looks like.
(not mine, i stole it off the internet)

(i will remove it upon owner request)

wouldnt you lose speed going over the rev limit, since you lose power anyway after about 7.8k rpm?
or does this only affect stock ecu's?

would modified ecu's make more power on a stock engine?
sorry to thread jack.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [ iLL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> iNt3GrA]your cams dont make power that high, so there is no point. There is a reason there is a rev limit you are just going to cause wear and damage</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

 

He said SAFE....not effective.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He said SAFE....not effective. </TD></TR></TABLE>
true but whats the point if he doesnt know its not effective...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yc_dc4mar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
true but whats the point if he doesnt know its not effective...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, the GSR has really shitty gearing. Especially 1st to 2nd. It would be beneficial to ride out 1st for the sake of actually being somewhere near the power band in 2nd. You could do the same thing in 2nd to be in a better powerband in 3rd. However, the 2nd to 3rd gear shift is not nearly as bad as the 1st to 2nd. In all other gears, it's useless to wind it out.

 

Well I have hondata s 300 in my 94 GSR. I played around with it at 9000rpm. Car was not stock by any means. my car had 182,000 miles on it. it was fine but took it down cause you could hear the valves start to float. I would say around 8600 cause really stock motors stop making power after about 8000. anything higher than that is putting strain on your valvetrain

 

if your turbo'd i could understand why u want to see if you can raise your redline, but i agree, 8k is fine as is

 

oOoo safe......

 

Honestly, on stock internals, I wouldnt go much above the regular redline. Theres a reason the redline was made where it was. Without appropriate headwork and block work, it could just be a bad idea

 

oem redline probably is the best choice.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B serious &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well, the GSR has really shitty gearing. Especially 1st to 2nd. It would be beneficial to ride out 1st for the sake of actually being somewhere near the power band in 2nd. You could do the same thing in 2nd to be in a better powerband in 3rd. However, the 2nd to 3rd gear shift is not nearly as bad as the 1st to 2nd. In all other gears, it's useless to wind it out.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

very true.. thats the only reason i can think of to increase the redline.. besides being built and turbo'd to make more power

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by vietxdragon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your turbo'd i could understand why u want to see if you can raise your redline, but i agree, 8k is fine as is</TD></TR></TABLE>

Why only when turbo'd? What if the car was NA with larger cams or more compression or bigger head ports etc. etc.? Cmon now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TrkPlya547 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly, on stock internals, I wouldnt go much above the regular redline. Theres a reason the redline was made where it was. Without appropriate headwork and block work, it could just be a bad idea</TD></TR></TABLE>

Headwork yes. Blockwork...meh not so much. I'm sure a stock GSR bottom end could take around 8700ish RPM quite easily. It would require stiffer valve springs or lighter valves or a combination of the 2.

 

A stock GSR bottom end will take 9k rpm's no problem.
As stated though, you need to upgrade the valvetrain, at the least OEM ITR/CTR cams and springs, which will do 9k rpm no problem also.
The stock GSR starts losing power above like 7600rpm.
The cams will make a huge difference if you do decide to rev it out, I have 01 ITR cams and springs in mine(stock bottom end) and a very noticeable difference my motor pulls up until 8200rpm and would keep pulling except for me running a stock ECU(should change within the week), otherwise I woudl ahve no problem taking mine up to at least 8500rpm.

 

Well you answered it all. I do plan to build the engine, and I also am taking into account the gearing issue.

Thanks guys!