brakes
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From: Downingtown, Pa, United States
im probably going to upgrade the brakes on my 07 si and was wondering if anybody knew if the 07-08 cr-v front calipers would bolt on because they are twin piston?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Downingtown, Pa, United States
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93civicjaydm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im probably going to upgrade the brakes on my 07 si and was wondering if anybody knew if the 07-08 cr-v front calipers would bolt on because they are twin piston?</TD></TR></TABLE>
we have great brakes stock. if your gonna upgrade, then upgrade. cross drilled/slotted rotors, aftermarket calipers (brembo) and HP pads. why rigg up your new 2007 vehicle any other way?
i dont know if the cr-v calipers are a bolt-on or not.
i dont know if the cr-v calipers are a bolt-on or not.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need for crossdrilled or slotted rotors. They serve no purpose.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Many higher performance brakes have holes drilled through them. This is known as cross-drilling and was originally done in the 1960s on racing cars. Brake pads will outgas and under use may create boundary layer of gas between the pad and the disc hurting braking performance. Cross-drilling was created to provide the gas someplace to escape. Although modern brake pads seldom suffer from outgassing problems, water residue may build up after a vehicle passes through a puddle and impede braking performance. For this reason, and for heat dissipation purposes, cross drilling is still used on some braking components, but is not favored for racing or other hard use as the holes are a source of stress cracks under severe conditions.
Discs may also be slotted, where shallow channels are machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads. Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces.
On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads. Crossdrilled discs will eventually crack at the holes due to metal fatigue. Cross-drilled brakes that are manufactured poorly or subjected to high stresses will crack much sooner and more severely
Many higher performance brakes have holes drilled through them. This is known as cross-drilling and was originally done in the 1960s on racing cars. Brake pads will outgas and under use may create boundary layer of gas between the pad and the disc hurting braking performance. Cross-drilling was created to provide the gas someplace to escape. Although modern brake pads seldom suffer from outgassing problems, water residue may build up after a vehicle passes through a puddle and impede braking performance. For this reason, and for heat dissipation purposes, cross drilling is still used on some braking components, but is not favored for racing or other hard use as the holes are a source of stress cracks under severe conditions.
Discs may also be slotted, where shallow channels are machined into the disc to aid in removing dust and gas. Slotting is the preferred method in most racing environments to remove gas, water, and de-glaze brake pads. Some discs are both drilled and slotted. Slotted discs are generally not used on standard vehicles because they quickly wear down brake pads; however, this removal of material is beneficial to race vehicles since it keeps the pads soft and avoids vitrification of their surfaces.
On the road, drilled or slotted discs still have a positive effect in wet conditions because the holes or slots prevent a film of water building up between the disc and the pads. Crossdrilled discs will eventually crack at the holes due to metal fatigue. Cross-drilled brakes that are manufactured poorly or subjected to high stresses will crack much sooner and more severely
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No need for crossdrilled or slotted rotors. </TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Try some good pads and some good fluid before you try new calipers. </TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^^^ That's all you needed to say.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IT GUY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Try some good pads and some good fluid before you try new calipers. </TD></TR></TABLE>
^^^^^ That's all you needed to say.
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I have 50,000 miles on my car and need new brake pads. I was considering changing the rotors also. The car has started to shake when I brake at high speeds. It have changed the tires and gotten an alignment so I think the rotors need to be turned or replaced. Is this fairly straight forward? Does anyone know where I could get a hold of written instructions?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SIVIC 3 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">we have great brakes stock. if your gonna upgrade, then upgrade. cross drilled/slotted rotors, aftermarket calipers (brembo) and HP pads. why rigg up your new 2007 vehicle any other way?
i dont know if the cr-v calipers are a bolt-on or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you want him to "rigg up" crappy brake rotors and really expensive brake calipers before trying something oem?
where's your logic?
i dont know if the cr-v calipers are a bolt-on or not.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you want him to "rigg up" crappy brake rotors and really expensive brake calipers before trying something oem?
where's your logic?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93civicjaydm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im probably going to upgrade the brakes on my 07 si and was wondering if anybody knew if the 07-08 cr-v front calipers would bolt on because they are twin piston?</TD></TR></TABLE>
did everyody forget that si's come stock with dual piston calipers. there is no point in swapping to dual piston when you have then already.
did everyody forget that si's come stock with dual piston calipers. there is no point in swapping to dual piston when you have then already.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 06siracer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
did everyody forget that si's come stock with dual piston calipers. there is no point in swapping to dual piston when you have then already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um, no...they are single...
did everyody forget that si's come stock with dual piston calipers. there is no point in swapping to dual piston when you have then already.</TD></TR></TABLE>
um, no...they are single...
If you look around, there's a user on here named something like "Brake Expert" or something like that. I've seen his posts and he knows what he's doing. He works on finding OEM brakes/rotors and fabricates or mixes and matches brackets/rotors/calipers to get BIG upgrades.
Just because the SI has single piston and the CRV has two piston does not automatically make the CRV a better braking system. You have to take into account the piston size, rotor size, etc.
To give an example of a good OEM upgrade, Accord guys (like myself) use Accord Wagon rotors (+1 inch) v6 brackets and dual piston NA1 NSX calipers. With the SI you may be better off looking aftermarket or towards the (I believe) Acura RL which has some bitchin' OEM brakes (which is what Brake Expert is playing around with)
Just because the SI has single piston and the CRV has two piston does not automatically make the CRV a better braking system. You have to take into account the piston size, rotor size, etc.
To give an example of a good OEM upgrade, Accord guys (like myself) use Accord Wagon rotors (+1 inch) v6 brackets and dual piston NA1 NSX calipers. With the SI you may be better off looking aftermarket or towards the (I believe) Acura RL which has some bitchin' OEM brakes (which is what Brake Expert is playing around with)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93civicjaydm »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im probably going to upgrade the brakes on my 07 si and was wondering if anybody knew if the 07-08 cr-v front calipers would bolt on because they are twin piston?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Before I start giving you some advice, I need to know what your purpose is for this brake upgrade... Canyon/mountain runs, Auto-x, HPDE's, or just for looks?
The twin piston reason isn't valid. There is more to brake than simply # of pistons. Muffinman went over those
Before I start giving you some advice, I need to know what your purpose is for this brake upgrade... Canyon/mountain runs, Auto-x, HPDE's, or just for looks?
The twin piston reason isn't valid. There is more to brake than simply # of pistons. Muffinman went over those
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With the SI you may be better off looking aftermarket or towards the (I believe) Acura RL which has some bitchin' OEM brakes (which is what Brake Expert is playing around with)</TD></TR></TABLE>
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2064643
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2064643
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheMuffinMan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you look around, there's a user on here named something like "Brake Expert" or something like that. I've seen his posts and he knows what he's doing. He works on finding OEM brakes/rotors and fabricates or mixes and matches brackets/rotors/calipers to get BIG upgrades.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chiggin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2064643 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Brake Expert is awesome, you should seriously go through him, shoot him a message or go on one of his posts. he's got S2000 upgrades, Acura RL upgrades and such. I'm getting a new set of brakes cuz i do canyon runs and still need to go over the mountains to get to work. So brake upgrade is essential
BTW have u ever driven a CR-V? idk about most of u, and i think it mite be because of the size and weight of the vehicle... but it's like their braking has a delay before it actually BRAKES. and when u do brake, it's like a bus stopping. if you're gonna make an upgrade, make a big one if reason be. playing with brakes can be a dangerous thing, so play with them right.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chiggin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2064643 </TD></TR></TABLE>
Brake Expert is awesome, you should seriously go through him, shoot him a message or go on one of his posts. he's got S2000 upgrades, Acura RL upgrades and such. I'm getting a new set of brakes cuz i do canyon runs and still need to go over the mountains to get to work. So brake upgrade is essential
BTW have u ever driven a CR-V? idk about most of u, and i think it mite be because of the size and weight of the vehicle... but it's like their braking has a delay before it actually BRAKES. and when u do brake, it's like a bus stopping. if you're gonna make an upgrade, make a big one if reason be. playing with brakes can be a dangerous thing, so play with them right.
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