Starting issue GSR Swap into 93 Civic DX
since nobody seems to frequent the hybrid forum this is cross posted
Hey Everyone,
I don;t often post in this forum and being a fairly sharp guy I normally do my own diagnosis work, but i'm short on time, and my patience is wearing thin with this "straight forward swap"
Car: 93 Civic DX
Engine: 95 JDM GSR LSD (came with obd 2 distributor and alternator)
Engine Harness: OBD1 GSR
Car Harness: Factory 93 Civic DX
ECU: P30 Hondata, and Stock DX ECU, we tried both and car does the exact same thing on either, with the initial running, and the not starting it does not start on either now
Installed the engine in the car checked over everything unplugged injectors cranked till good oil Pressure and then went to start the car
Car fired off right away and had somewhat of a high Idle, I let the car warm up to check for obvious leaks, let the cooling system pressurize etc.
After the car was done I went and pulled the check engine codes ( 3 of them )
They were
TPS
IAC
IAT
When the engine was installed I or one of my helpers wasn;t paying attention and broke the original TPS, we replaced it and set it as best we could by eye, We had no scope, multi meter or anything to really check this. We have tried a different known TPS as well
After we replaced the TPS the engine simply lights off and instantly dies, how much it initiall revs up depends on where the TPS is.
If you open the throttle body at all the engine runs and sounds absolutely fine.
If you remove the IAC (so there;'s an air bleed) it just idles at like 2200 RPM.
Basically I have came to the following conclusions.
The TPS is adjusted severely wrong and won;t let the IAC open, the reason for this being is typically ECU's have a limit in throttle angle or percent where the engine transitions from running to idle and vice versa, this is so the IAC isn;t open under accel.
The IAC has died and slammed itself shut
Or magic?
Anyways that's the basic story and I do appreciate any and all help that can be provided, if anyone has any questions don;t hesitate to ask.
As for your replies I can grasp most any concept, I would love to fix this myself but like I said I simply don;t have the time or patience these days.
Thanks in advance everyone!
Hey Everyone,
I don;t often post in this forum and being a fairly sharp guy I normally do my own diagnosis work, but i'm short on time, and my patience is wearing thin with this "straight forward swap"
Car: 93 Civic DX
Engine: 95 JDM GSR LSD (came with obd 2 distributor and alternator)
Engine Harness: OBD1 GSR
Car Harness: Factory 93 Civic DX
ECU: P30 Hondata, and Stock DX ECU, we tried both and car does the exact same thing on either, with the initial running, and the not starting it does not start on either now
Installed the engine in the car checked over everything unplugged injectors cranked till good oil Pressure and then went to start the car
Car fired off right away and had somewhat of a high Idle, I let the car warm up to check for obvious leaks, let the cooling system pressurize etc.
After the car was done I went and pulled the check engine codes ( 3 of them )
They were
TPS
IAC
IAT
When the engine was installed I or one of my helpers wasn;t paying attention and broke the original TPS, we replaced it and set it as best we could by eye, We had no scope, multi meter or anything to really check this. We have tried a different known TPS as well
After we replaced the TPS the engine simply lights off and instantly dies, how much it initiall revs up depends on where the TPS is.
If you open the throttle body at all the engine runs and sounds absolutely fine.
If you remove the IAC (so there;'s an air bleed) it just idles at like 2200 RPM.
Basically I have came to the following conclusions.
The TPS is adjusted severely wrong and won;t let the IAC open, the reason for this being is typically ECU's have a limit in throttle angle or percent where the engine transitions from running to idle and vice versa, this is so the IAC isn;t open under accel.
The IAC has died and slammed itself shut
Or magic?
Anyways that's the basic story and I do appreciate any and all help that can be provided, if anyone has any questions don;t hesitate to ask.
As for your replies I can grasp most any concept, I would love to fix this myself but like I said I simply don;t have the time or patience these days.
Thanks in advance everyone!
check wiring harness for MAP sensor and TPS to see if they had been inverted
get a multimeter set the TPS 0.47V for 0% full closed
measure the voltage at the ecu between D11 and D21 or D22 while a buddy turn the sensor
check IAT and IACV wiring
in S300 menu (parameter/ idle) you have IAC duty cycle slide bar, play with it
regards
get a multimeter set the TPS 0.47V for 0% full closed
measure the voltage at the ecu between D11 and D21 or D22 while a buddy turn the sensor
check IAT and IACV wiring
in S300 menu (parameter/ idle) you have IAC duty cycle slide bar, play with it
regards
Ok so after making the post and doing some checking last night I want to preface this next post with this and try to save a little bit of my pride.
I did not install the wiring loom on the engine. The engine came without a loom and one of my friends that was helping me install it put it on. To anyones defense there are roughly 4 of the same connectors in the same exact location so it can get very difficult.
Long story short when all else fails check a wiring diagram to see what needs to go where.
We simply checked the wire colors and moved them where they needed to be the thing starts runs and idles fine
I did not install the wiring loom on the engine. The engine came without a loom and one of my friends that was helping me install it put it on. To anyones defense there are roughly 4 of the same connectors in the same exact location so it can get very difficult.
Long story short when all else fails check a wiring diagram to see what needs to go where.
We simply checked the wire colors and moved them where they needed to be the thing starts runs and idles fine
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mgreene
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Mar 2, 2014 12:00 AM
jimmy o.
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May 4, 2008 04:03 PM




