I got this BEAUTIFUL clean no rust 89 Si. I used to work on B13s aka 91-94 Nissan Sentras. I used to jack the car by the frame rails and throw it on jackstands all the time.

I'm at my uncles house now and he has a small floor jack with a 2.5" jacking plate. The other day I put it up to my frame rail to jack the car, and it practically punched a hole in it right then and there. I freaked, and tried to relocate to a better spot... when it put a huge dent in my frame rail.

I've never had this problem with any car I've worked on. It's like the frame rails are made of aluminum foil on this chassis.

Where the hell are you guys using for jack points? I'm going to have to grab a wooden block to make this work, but I've always hated using blocks with jacks.

 

i use the honda jack points...there is a small notch in the rail under the car, front and rear, for using the spare. never had a problem.

on my crx, i've even had it lift a whole side with both wheels off the ground, using just one jack point

 

I have NEVER had a problem using the CORRECT points to jack the car up.

 

yes dont just jack it up from anywhere on the pinch weld, jack it up ONLY from the jack points, you should not have a problem then

 

Yup quad-drupple ditto with above. Never had a problem.

 

I actually had this same problem... Bent the frame rail a little bit using the jack point behind the front passenger wheel well. Now i just jack it up the bolts for the front cross member.

 

Just wanted to ad a to this thread.

 

This is the first car I've worked on that bends frame rails from being jacked up. You can me all you want, but I can tell you I was very surprised when this happened. If you've only worked on Hondas and are used to this problem, it would make sense you would think I'm a retard.

Most cars don't give a shet.

I was going for what looked like the jack points for this car. No I did not get out the Helms manual to check for jack points. You shouldn't need FSM specifications to lift a car off the ground.

 

Every car comes with an owner's manual (not service manual or shop manual) that tells you where the jacking points are. Yours may have been lost by a previous owner, but don't say the info isn't readily available.

This isn't only Hondas. Every car has jacking points. The civics don't really have "frames" to speak of either, more like two subframes and a floor pan.

and remember if you don't want then don't make threads telling us about the dumb stuff you did.

 

So these other car's you worked had full reinforcements along the whole sill?

 

I'm not going to argue over the internet about this.

I find it strange that my frame rail crumpled from the weight of a 2000 lb car, when I've never had a problem picking a spot on other cars frame rails with no issues.

I wasn't sure if this was common (it seems it is since you all are bashing it into my head that I'm an idiot for assuming any point on the frame rail would be tough enough).

So that answers my question. On these chassis you do need to use the exact location for jacking the car. You cannot just pick a spot on the frame rail..


An example of how this used to work out for me... before autocross I would swap my wheels out of my Sentra each side at a time. I'd break the lugs on the drivers side, pick a spot in the middle of the frame rail, jack the car, swap the wheels, and repeat on the opposite side.

I figured that jacking up one corner on the frame rail wouldn't be an issue. I guess I was wrong.

 

If you jack up a Civic anywhere between the wheels on the side......guess what.....ITS NOT A FRAME RAIL.

Unitbody.

 

I've always wondered, what's the proper way to raise (for example's sake) the drivers front corner and then place a jackstand underneath it. I've tried from the front and I can't get it high enough for the jackstand to go in at the height I need.

 

If you have a slim enough jack (width, not height), you can use the spot beyond the front jack point and a little toward the front of the car. Look for where the firewall comes down and the "frame rail" begins. I haven't had any problems with jacking from there to get a stand under the front jack point.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Taiden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An example of how this used to work out for me... before autocross I would swap my wheels out of my Sentra each side at a time. I'd break the lugs on the drivers side, pick a spot in the middle of the frame rail, jack the car, swap the wheels, and repeat on the opposite side.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can lift from the front jack point and get both the front and rear wheel of the ground.

 

wow, i did this once when i first got my car cause i was a newb (like 15)!! but come on dude, you sounds like your past that faze in your life! no car should ever be jacked up from anywhere other then the jacking points. sure the car may not crumple like a crx does but your putting unneeded stress on the frame that may lead to problems down the road. especially on a 15yr or older car!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LowFlyin’ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have a slim enough jack (width, not height), you can use the spot beyond the front jack point and a little toward the front of the car. Look for where the firewall comes down and the "frame rail" begins. I haven't had any problems with jacking from there to get a stand under the front jack point.</TD></TR></TABLE> I think I understand where you are talking about, unfortunately though I believe that point is underneath my mud flaps.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dr_latino999 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I think I understand where you are talking about, unfortunately though I believe that point is underneath my mud flaps.</TD></TR></TABLE>Yeah...it would be if you have flaps in the front.

 

I've had a jack point bend on a nissan so I would always use the tow/tiedown hooks under the car, never had any issues.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Taiden &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not going to argue over the internet about this.

So that answers my question. On these chassis you do need to use the exact location for jacking the car. You cannot just pick a spot on the frame rail..

An example of how this used to work out for me... before autocross I would swap my wheels out of my Sentra each side at a time. I'd break the lugs on the drivers side, pick a spot in the middle of the frame rail, jack the car, swap the wheels, and repeat on the opposite side.
</TD></TR></TABLE>


I used to have a 92 SE-R. RIP. You'll get used to the Hondas and appreciate/hate them for the appropriate characteristics.

There are the official jacking points and acceptable jacking points. I guess you've figured out the official jacking points by now. As for acceptable direct jack points...tow hooks and front cross member also work.
I change out my autox and street tires in the same fashion you mentioned, I just use an 8-12" long 2x6. That little strip of wood lives with my jack. You may not like it, but it works.

 

Finally someone who gets it. You know how the sentra just has a huge rail on each side that is strong enough to be lifted from? And yeah, I'm starting to think a block of wood is going to be my friend.

Also; I have mud flaps on the front and rear of my car... is that why I cannot see the jacking points??

ALSO: the manual was not included with the car at the time of sale.

I've just started to use the point in front and rear instead of the sides. The honda side jack points scare me lol.

And WTF at the 15 comment. Just because you haven't worked on enough cars to understand my point of view doesn't mean you have to make an "age" hack. Come on now.

 

It isn't a frame at all, it is basically only sheet metal under there. Did you dent the hell out of your floorboard? You can beat it back down with a sledge and a hunk of wood.

 

lift up the carpet in the back and read the instruction that are labled on the jack

 

I just go off the tow hooks on the front and back and then put jack stands on the lift points on the side, never had a problem doin that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91DBSexyTime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just go off the tow hooks on the front and back and then put jack stands on the lift points on the side, never had a problem doin that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

+1 always works for me

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 91DBSexyTime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just go off the tow hooks on the front and back and then put jack stands on the lift points on the side, never had a problem doin that.</TD></TR></TABLE>


DING DING DING DING!!!